Another AN fitting thread.

[bgbmxer]

So it's time to replace all the lines on my 88 shadow the lines corroding have clogged my injectors causing a miss for the second time now. I'm planning on going AN fittings and summit brand ptfe hose and fittings.

First question is should I worry about the ptfe hose that's lined or is the reg ptfe stuff good enough.

second question is on the earls hard line to an adapters. Plan on putting them on the nipples coming out of the tank hopefully that works and the same thing with the line coming off the fuel rail and regulator. The adapters say for aluminum I'd think they will work just fine with the steel. But they say for 50psi max. From what I have read on other posts its been general consensus that running higher pressures are ok. Is this still true?

Here's my list tell me what you think.

2 1/4" hard line to -6
2 5/16" hard line to -6
-6 inline filter
2 180 -6 fittings
3 Straight -6 fitting
2 90's -6 fittings
40ft -6 hose Can I get away with less?

[iTurbo]

I retrofitted a Spirit R/T with 3/8" hard lines and -6AN throughout. Both supply and return lines.

On the fuel tank sending unit, I had a local radiator shop retrofit it with 3/8" tube in/out. From there, I used the Earl's tube adapters to convert the bare 3/8" tube to -6AN male for the supply and return. I tore out all the original fuel hoses and used Summit -6AN braided stainless steel hose to replace all of the factory rubber hoses and quick-disconnect fittings. For the hard line, I took out all the factory stuff and replaced it with Summit aluminum 3/8" tube all the way up the engine bay. I then went from the new 3/8" aluminum tube to -6AN SS braided hose to an adapter on the FWD Performance fuel rail and another adapter on the Accufab fuel pressure regulator.

Beware that the outlet on the Accufab FPR is NOT 1/4" NPT thread. It is metric, although the specific measurements escape me right now. 1/4" NPT might work, but I wouldn't chance it personally.

ALSO - I would NOT recommend using aluminum 3/8" tubing to replace the factory hard lines. I did, and it lasted about five years before corrosion took over and it started spraying fuel out of pinholes due to corrosion!! I ended up replacing all of the Summit aluminum tubing with tubing from NAPA. The new tubing is very similar to Cunifer (copper/nickel alloy) and is much more resistant to corrosion. It isn't as easy to bend, but is far superior. I would go with Cunifer or the Poly Armour tubing that NAPA sells.

[bgbmxer]

I retrofitted a Spirit R/T with 3/8" hard lines and -6AN throughout. Both supply and return lines.

On the fuel tank sending unit, I had a local radiator shop retrofit it with 3/8" tube in/out. From there, I used the Earl's tube adapters to convert the bare 3/8" tube to -6AN male for the supply and return. I tore out all the original fuel hoses and used Summit -6AN braided stainless steel hose to replace all of the factory rubber hoses and quick-disconnect fittings. For the hard line, I took out all the factory stuff and replaced it with Summit aluminum 3/8" tube all the way up the engine bay. I then went from the new 3/8" aluminum tube to -6AN SS braided hose to an adapter on the FWD Performance fuel rail and another adapter on the Accufab fuel pressure regulator.

Beware that the outlet on the Accufab FPR is NOT 1/4" NPT thread. It is metric, although the specific measurements escape me right now. 1/4" NPT might work, but I wouldn't chance it personally.

ALSO - I would NOT recommend using aluminum 3/8" tubing to replace the factory hard lines. I did, and it lasted about five years before corrosion took over and it started spraying fuel out of pinholes due to corrosion!! I ended up replacing all of the Summit aluminum tubing with tubing from NAPA. The new tubing is very similar to Cunifer (copper/nickel alloy) and is much more resistant to corrosion. It isn't as easy to bend, but is far superior. I would go with Cunifer or the Poly Armour tubing that NAPA sells.

I plan on running the braided hose the whole way and not use any hard line. More expensive I guess but less hassle to. Also changing the inlet and outlets to the same size wouldn't be to bad to do. And that's good info to know about the accufab regulator. Mine is some older Bosch unit. Could always make it work somehow.

[iTurbo]

The outlet on the Accufab is the same as the later model turbo Dodges with the tube that threads into it. It IS metric though. If you search old threads I'm sure I have mentioned the size before and it is available from Summit. I forget, but I think it was Earl's or..something like 14mm.

Not a bad idea to go with the SS braided hose all the way...as long as it will pass tech at the drag strips you want to go to.

[bgbmxer]

I'm looking but no luck. If you find it that would be helpful.

[cordes]

The fitting on the reg is a metric power steering pump fitting. I'll see if I can find a PN for you.

One thing to be on the look out for with the PTFE stuff is that it has a horribly large bend radius. Even -6AN is like a 6" minimum bend.

[iTurbo]

I've tried searching but it was looooong ago that I did this. I do seem to remember that I told another member here about the proper size and then arguing about it and Cordes said something like, "you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink"...will keep trying.

[iTurbo]

Off the top of my head I'm thinking 14mm x 1.5 but I can't say for certain.

[bgbmxer]

I actually wasn't thinking about running the line to the regulator itself since mine has a line coming off of it. Ill have to pull it apart and measure it.

[cordes]

I've tried searching but it was looooong ago that I did this. I do seem to remember that I told another member here about the proper size and then arguing about it and Cordes said something like, "you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink"...will keep trying.

Excellent memory on both accounts. Here is what I copied from your previous post.

14mm x 1.5 thread

[iTurbo]

Only problem is that the tube coming out of it is only 1/4". I couldn't find any hard tube adapters that would go that small at the time.


EDIT: Thank you Cordes!

[bgbmxer]

Only problem is that the tube coming out of it is only 1/4". I couldn't find any hard tube adapters that would go that small at the time.


EDIT: Thank you Cordes!

yea earls makes them. Had to look a little bit tho. Do use guys think two 20 ft lengths is overkill and could get away with less. I haven't measured anything yet

[GLHNSLHT2]

http://www.anplumbing.com/Adapters/Metric-25.html

14x1.5 like said, Earls part #991954

for the 1/4" return I used tube nuts and sleeves and flared the line with a Summit flare tool. Was not easy trying to flare the factory line with the engine in the car, had to machine down the flare to get enough clearance for the tool to grab the line but I got it done.

[iTurbo]

I used an adapter that threaded right into the Accufab (stock would work too). You could run the SS line right up the FPR if you wanted. It was a 14mm x 1.5 to -6AN adapter, male to male. I'm almost certain it was from Earl's.

Some of the adapters I used were from Russel, so you might check them out too.

[bgbmxer]

This stuff is expensive lol

[iTurbo]

Yeah it tends to add up. Unfortunately. But you should be good to go for a long time. If you ever want to go E85 I would suggest looking into the PTFE hose though.

[GLHNSLHT2]

yea, it's not cheap, but oh oh oh so nice when you have to service it. No more hose clamps to fail, so easy to release pressure from the system without getting sprayed by fuel. Once they're on and rocking they're just so much better. It's like going from stock turbo coolant/oil lines to the kits sold by the vendors. Just makes it so much nicer. I had less than a year old EFI fuel line and proper FI clamps on my car before going to AN stuff, Could of burnt the car down in the middle of the Cali dessert on a trip down there. The feed line to the rail had shrunk somehow and was spraying enough fuel out of it that my narrowband a/f was reading stoich each time I hit boost racing a nicely modded Datsun 510. I didn't find the leak till the next morning showing the car to my dad after I had arrived in SoCal. He looks down and says "is this supposed to be leaking?" I put 2 and 2 together right there as to why my a/f was so lean. Went to AN fittings and will NEVER go back.

[iTurbo]

+1 to what Jay said. I didn't have to touch anything on the Spirit R/T after going all-out -6AN everything. So easy to work on and service. No clamps. No quick-disconnects. No getting sprayed with fuel from failing rubber hose, or leaking fuel hose from sub-zero temps. For a car you plan to race, it is the best way to go.

[bgbmxer]

Looks like its gonna be around 300 dollars worth of stuff. Still wanna do a little planning yet and measure the old lines to see how long they were. Gonna get weld on fittings for the tank side and that solves that end. Gonna measure for the fitting on the afpr and prolly weld a fitting onto then end of the fuel rail. Then it's an fittings and no compression stuff and pressure will never be an issue

[bgbmxer]

This is what I got on my afpr seems to be the size and thread use are saying. Should I go for the crush washer type or for the fitting with a o ring on the end. The number use gave is for the o ring power steering type. So guess that's the ticket