TPS Voltage at idle

[turbo84voyager]

What is the correct TPS voltage at idle for a 89 2.5 turbo? I made a mistake a while back and played around with the idle screw and ever since depending on where it is, the idle is very rich. I would like to set it back to stock but I do not know the correct voltage. Thanks! Justin

[turbovanman²]

Technically, there isn't one. Everytime you turn the key off, then back on, it resets to the new position.

[crusty shadow]

you adjust the idle screw till you get the desired idle speed you are looking for. engine fully warmed up, cooling fan cycled at least once, then adjust screw until desired idle speed is reached.

[GLHNSLHT2]

+! to what simon said. ECU is not a ford product and can figure out what the minimum voltage is when you turn the key on

[turbovanman²]

+! to what simon said. ECU is not a ford product and can figure out what the minimum voltage is when you turn the key on

GM too, hahahaha.

[turbo84voyager]

Well I guess I have to play with the cold enrichment settings. Now thats its cold out its just way too rich at idle..

Thanks for the info

[Reaper1]

1 very important step in all of this: you have to disconnect the AIS motor before starting the engine, then set the idle with the idle screw where you want it, then turn the engine back off, reconnect the AIS, then restart the engine. This *should* reset the idle where you want it and the computer will be able to use the AIS to control it.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Idle setting, start car, let car warm up, pull vac line to brake booster so cars revs up, AIS will close fully trying to get idle down, Once idle is at lowest point, and you can take the hose off the TB and stick your finger over the idle passage hole to see if it's still sucking, unplug AIS motor, then shut car off. Now re-connect vac hose and start car, Set idle with idle screw. shut car off, plug AIS motor in and go.

My way for 5spd cars, Remove TB, Remove AIS, unscrew pintle from AIS motor, fill AIS passage with Gorilla Glue and let cure in warm house for a couple days, trim any excess off, Put old AIS motor back on, re-install TB, Go into D-cal, MPTune Mptuner etc, bump cold advance 2-4 degrees under 100 degrees engine temp, load cal, start car, set idle with idle screw, DONE!

[turbo84voyager]

The problem I have been having is sometimes it will go into fast idle other times it will not when cold. Its intermittent. It will always start right up but then die unless I give it some throttle and depending on how cold it is outside will depend on how long until it will idle by itself. It is probabily a setting I have wrong in the calibration. Its strange because it is intermittent. The problem is it idles way too rich and it does not matter what cal I have in. My FWD cal would idle on the lean side but sometimes it will idle very rich (10.0 - 11.5) until I drive the van. As soon as I put a load on it it runs 14.7. Sometimes the idle will lean out to a normal range then all of a sudden go very rich and then very slowly lean back out. It acts like there is some type of timer when it does this. The problem is much worse in the cold weather. I put the red brick on it several times and all of the sensors appear to be in range.

[Reaper1]

Maybe a vacuum leak or a FPR that is going bad? How about grounds?

[turbo84voyager]

FPR is not that old and was right on last time I checked. I swear I hear a vacuum leak but I cannot find one. I will try some carb cleaner around the lines and see if the idle changes. I really cleaned up the vacuum lines when i had the engine out last so there is a lot less than original. I cant find any bad grounds either and I striped and cleaned the harness too. It is probabily something simple.

[iangoround]

My Daytona was doing something similar when it had a bad charge temp sensor. On a cold start it would almost refuse to run without throttle input and would run VERY rich near 10:1. When I pulled out the charge temp sensor I discovered that the little wire element had actually fallen apart and was missing. I replaced it everything was immediately better. The car starts right up and goes to near 14.7 at idle after about 20 seconds depending on the outdoor temperature, and I only need to blip the throttle a few times to keep it running initially if it is below 20 outside.

[turbo84voyager]

I found a small hole in the vacuum line going to the BOV so I fixed that but it didnt make much of a difference. I reset the fuel pressure to 55 static ( it was close to 60) it helped a little but still no luck. All sensors appear to be in range and the scanner says rich and fuel 0. This is with the fwd cal that usuially ran lean. I then tried one of my cals and it was slightly leaner. I took it for a ride and then it started to lean out to normal and after the drive seemed ok but I will see what it does in a cold start. Is it normal for it to run rich after the ecu has been reset and not driven? I never remember it doing this in the past. I'm almost positive when I put the FWD cal in the first time it was not rich at all at idle. It runs great otherwise.

[Reaper1]

I remember my car needing to "learn" for a bit to run right. That could be part of it. I'm not sure how long the adaptives take to work, or even if they still work with altered cals. Shel-Game would probably be the best bet for a real answer on that.