2005 Acura RSX Rear Wheel Bearing Removal

[minigts]

Planning on driving this car a long distance and need to get the rear wheel bearing swapped. The car is out of town, so I will have to carry tools with me to do the work. I have a replacement bearing and hub assembly coming in and plan to pull the wheel, pull the hub and replace, but not sure what tools are needed. I would assume a large socket for the nut holding the bearing on, 10-13mm socket to disassociate the brake from the rotor, anything else? Does this car use those phillips screws that requires an impact screwdriver or are they free floating rotors? Any of you garage owners worked on one of these before? An exploded view of the hub would be helpful.

Doing the work next week, but leaving this Sunday, so wanted to get a list of the tools to carry with me. Thanks in advance!

[minigts]

And if I had just looked first.....

[135sohc]

Yuck... rear corkscrew parking brakes.

[minigts]

I like the NINE parts that make up the piston assembly. There are TWO for our cars, the piston and the seal....that's it. Keep it simple.

[135sohc]

In their partial defense chrysler did something similar and atleast figured out how stupid it was early on.

[supercrackerbox]

I hate cars that have the drums/rotors screwed in place.

[francois]

Never had any problem with parking brake on Hunda cars equipped with disk.

Anyhow...

You need to remove the 2 bolts (10mm) that hold the caliper on the carrier.
Remove the carrier that's being hold with 2 bolts (14 or 17mm).
2 flat head screws hold the disk in place. Either you use a Hammer/Screwdriver or drill them out(You don't need to put them back)
Remove the cap.
Unscrew the nut (don't know by heart) in the middle and remove the hub.
Voila!
It might be a good time to grease the sliding pins and to make sure the pads are not hammer in place. Use a file and make sure they slide easily.
If by any chance, you can't put back the caliper on, you need to turn the piston back in. There is a 2 grooves on the pistons that makes a cross (+) you can use a big flat screw driver to turn the piston back in.

Nothing fancy.

[minigts]

In their partial defense chrysler did something similar and atleast figured out how stupid it was early on.

No mercy! Goin' Cobra Kai on their butts.

I hate cars that have the drums/rotors screwed in place.

I know, I don't know why you worry about it. Our stuff is free floating and no issues.

Never had any problem with parking brake on Hunda cars equipped with disk.

Anyhow...

You need to remove the 2 bolts (10mm) that hold the caliper on the carrier.
Remove the carrier that's being hold with 2 bolts (14 or 17mm).
2 flat head screws hold the disk in place. Either you use a Hammer/Screwdriver or drill them out(You don't need to put them back)
Remove the cap.
Unscrew the nut (don't know by heart) in the middle and remove the hub.
Voila!
It might be a good time to grease the sliding pins and to make sure the pads are not hammer in place. Use a file and make sure they slide easily.
If by any chance, you can't put back the caliper on, you need to turn the piston back in. There is a 2 grooves on the pistons that makes a cross (+) you can use a big flat screw driver to turn the piston back in.

Nothing fancy.

Thank you Francois! I plan to take an axle nut socket set along with my standard set. I have the hammer screw driver and will hopefully not have to drill them out. It's a northern car, so no idea what kind of condition this stuff will be in. Regardless, I figured it was pretty simple based on the diagram, but that's good to know the screws aren't necessary to replace. Got my toolbag, so I'm good to go!