Proper wbo2 sensor bung placement

[tryingbe]

Nice, that's the one I've been looking at. So if I understand correctly, with the UEGO I can run the WB gauge & have the NB02 signal for the SMEC at the same time off of 1 sensor?

Yes, you can.

is there different AEM gauges?? every single 1 I've seen look the same.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...l=1#post990417

[bgbmxer]

Great info. Basically somewhere in the downside and I can eliminate the stock o2 sensor. Cool

[GLHNSLHT2]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...l=1#post990417[/QUOTE]


ok so the white wire will output the 0-1v readings to your ECU and the gauge will output the correct afr #'s????

[tryingbe]

ok so the white wire will output the 0-1v readings to your ECU and the gauge will output the correct afr #'s????

It sure does.

[iTurbo]

What position in the pipe are you guys welding the bung it at?

For example, if you were under the car and looking right up into the swing valve, where the top would be 12 o'clock, bottom 6 o'clock, passenger side 3 o'clock and driver side at 9 o'clock.....

Does it matter what angle the bung is welded in at? Seems I've heard of condensation issues if it isn't right. I imagine the 3 o'clock position would be best but..

[GLHNSLHT2]

I do mine at the very 1st small bend after the SV, probably 3-5" down at the 10-11 o'clock position. This eliminates any chance of condensation and still allows me to get a socket and long extension on the SV bolt on that side. I do it in that position so my Lc-1 sits on the drivers side trans mount bracket where I can get to it without crawling under the car.

But I think they don't want it below 3 or 9 o'clock more if you were welding it along the horizontal pipe section under the car where it has more of a chance to pool up or drain down into the sensor.

[bgbmxer]

I do mine at the very 1st small bend after the SV, probably 3-5" down at the 10-11 o'clock position. This eliminates any chance of condensation and still allows me to get a socket and long extension on the SV bolt on that side. I do it in that position so my Lc-1 sits on the drivers side trans mount bracket where I can get to it without crawling under the car.

But I think they don't want it below 3 or 9 o'clock more if you were welding it along the horizontal pipe section under the car where it has more of a chance to pool up or drain down into the sensor.

What he said. Everything I read said between the 3 and 9 also. I will be doing the same on my downpipe but will probably wait till I buy the wideband to do so. No sense in buying a separate bung when they come in the kit

[iTurbo]

Sounds good. Thanks for the info, good thread.

[AzShadow]

i believe my lc1 manual says 18" away from exit of turbo..

[acannell]

i have my innovate sensor (just a generic bosch really) mounted down on the 3" swingvalve a ways..whatever the manual suggested is what i did..its easy to get to under the car and stays out of the way

but with all the E8's and unreliability i've had with the innovate gauge, i wouldnt use it for the actual ECU narrowband signal...too unreliable..just keep the stock o2 sensor installed and use the innovate for analysis

[turbovanman²]

i have my innovate sensor (just a generic bosch really) mounted down on the 3" swingvalve a ways..whatever the manual suggested is what i did..its easy to get to under the car and stays out of the way

but with all the E8's and unreliability i've had with the innovate gauge, i wouldnt use it for the actual ECU narrowband signal...too unreliable..just keep the stock o2 sensor installed and use the innovate for analysis

Gotta agree. E8 for the people unfamiliar with Innovate, is the overheat code for the sensor and they are notorious for it going off, then the sensor stops working. I would keep the stock oxygen sensor and wait before using it for the NB output. I went thru a sensor every 3-6 months as they kept failing,

[GLHNSLHT2]

So you put the sensor in the SV and ----- about an E8 code? WTF are you people doing wrong? I've been dailying my Innovate on the same sensor it came with at least the last 4 years. Feeding the ECU and all.

[acannell]

So you put the sensor in the SV and ----- about an E8 code? WTF are you people doing wrong? I've been dailying my Innovate on the same sensor it came with at least the last 4 years. Feeding the ECU and all.

in all fairness my sensor never died. despite what innovate motors says about E8's it doesnt mean your sensor is dead. their tech support is horrible and i hate them in general. my E8's seem to be related to water injection, which the same tech support says should not cause E8's...

[Vader85]

Doesn't matter as long as your not 8 ft from it, placing it just as it come under the floorpan is where I have 3 of my vehicles fo testing easy installation and removal....

[Reaper1]

My Innovate also would overheat and I have it installed about half way down the downpipe. I bought a piece of copper sheet to make a heat sink, but I never got around to doing it. For me, it didn't matter if the water injection was on or not. It would still throw the code. On the display I am using it just either blanks out or shows one of the extreme lean or rich numbers.

[minigts]

Mine is 18" down, but using the simulated narrowband O2 to the LM. Less is better.

[bgbmxer]

I think I put mine around 20/22 inches down. No problems thus far. Need to re calibrate it here soon. Lots of radio interference is my only complaint

[Reaper1]

I had a lot of radio interference, too, but I always chocked it up to a bad ground someplace. I think I even had it when I had the LC1 off.

Because of the screwy way it would decide to blank out, I never connected the NB feature to the stock wiring. If I thought it were reliable enough, I would have. Honestly it *might* be a bad sensor since I've had it a number of years.

The one thing I wish my display did was display the Lambda instead of the A/F since the Lambda number is the same regardless of fuel or fuel mix. Most of us don't "speak" in Lambda numbers, but once it's understood it makes a lot more sense to monitor things that way.

I do agree, though...less is better. Took me a long time to figure that one out!

[bgbmxer]

I had a lot of radio interference, too, but I always chocked it up to a bad ground someplace. I think I even had it when I had the LC1 off.

Because of the screwy way it would decide to blank out, I never connected the NB feature to the stock wiring. If I thought it were reliable enough, I would have. Honestly it *might* be a bad sensor since I've had it a number of years.

The one thing I wish my display did was display the Lambda instead of the A/F since the Lambda number is the same regardless of fuel or fuel mix. Most of us don't "speak" in Lambda numbers, but once it's understood it makes a lot more sense to monitor things that way.

I do agree, though...less is better. Took me a long time to figure that one out!

i have the stock 88 radio and tried grounds all over the place and it didn't seem to make a difference. The power is off the fuse block and the power feed for the power windows which I don't have. Mine has been super reliable from what I can tell. But as soon as the the key is on and it goes into warm up i get radio interference.

[Ondonti]

Innovate MTX-L has no problems when mounted 20-24" down my downpipe with a nice water draining angle. I have never had a sensor failure on either the MTX-L (but had the first controller fail withing its first month) and never had a sensor fail on my Zeitronix and its been 10 years.
Used narrowband on both as long as the car had a stock computer.