Ill have to try the tdc deal but last time I set the timing I checked the cam timing with a timing light also and it was dead nuts and the torq converter was spot on to. Already had all the accessory belts removed and checked that. If its the trans ill run it till it dies and start aquiring parts for the 5 speed swapOriginally Posted by Reaper1
I did not find any check ball anywhere. Can I install one in line for the trans cooler. Where do I get one and which line should I put it in coming out of the trans?
Contact your local dealer and determine what the part number is (so you can potentially avoid dealership prices) and ask to see their part diagram to identify its location and insure it hasn't been over-looked.
If it was removed and based on the severity of the current damage, installing one will help but may not correct the issue.
This is a later model hose but shows how small the part is and it's inline location.
It is the brass piece within the line - yours may be silver and hex in shape.
You don't need one, never seen one and never seen an issue either. Maybe it was a really early pre production thing but in all my years working on these trans, I've never seen one. My van has 3/8 lines and no issues, even drilled out the cooler passages in the case and have a remote oil filter setup.
It could be pump noise, its really hard to tell, they usually make more of a whirring/whiny noise. Does it change with rpm/load?
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
I've never seen a check valve on any A413 that I've worked on. Maybe they added them when they went to L/U TC's, but even then in the junk yard I've never seen one.
On the trucks, like my '99 Ram with the 46RE, it is very common practice to either knock the check ball out or eliminate it all together because they stick and fry the transmission. I will be doing this in the spring for mine.
it sounds like a hydraulic pump and only does if at startup for a few minutes then will go away. It will change with rpm and load like if I put it into gear. Or drive it but then goes away.
Most likely pump but I would drop the valve body and check the valves, if the regulator valve is jammed or binding, it will cause the pump to whirrrr.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
Hmm...sounds like the converter is draining while the engine isn't running so the pump is loosing prime. I dunno if this is a possibility with the A413, but I know it's a known issue with the 46/7/8RE transmissions and is solved with a modification to a shuttle valve in the valve body. Auto tranny experts...does that sound plausible?
Not to me, but maybe others? Everytime I've got that noise, it was either the pump going/worn due to debris or the valve body was all seized up due to debris.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
I have never had any luck with the autos and since I will be doing a lot of highway I think a five speed is gonna be the way to go soon enough. Never converted an auto car to stick. Shall be fun. I would like to build an auto in the future since that's the way to go for a straight line.
Ok car now has a 5 speed in it and still makes the same noise. Crazy
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New oil pump also. Wonder if its possible the pickup is making noise. Maybe the idler pulley on the timing belt.
In my experience,
The idler pulley makes a scouring or grinding noise when the bearing is going south...like a bad alternator.
CG
Maybe you should pull the oil pan and take a look. I didn't read the whole thread but noticed you removed all the accessories at one point. How about the timing belt tensioner? Im assuming it was run with the belt off? If not how about water pump? Distributor going bad? Have you used a stethoscope on the motor?
Removed all the accessorys and still did it. Are you asking it i ran it with the timing belt off because that's not possible. I had the pan off and replaced the pump with a known good one. The pickup was reused and had nothing abnormal in it and the oil pressure is good and doesn't change when the noise starts. It only does this a couple seconds after startup and then for about a minute or two until the engine gets some heat in it then goes away. As for the water pump all belts were removed and still did it so that's not it distributor was replaced not long ago and made the sound with the old one also. I do not have a stethoscope but its definitely on the bottom end and not top end. The oil pan vibrates while its making that sound.
Lol, obviously u can't run it with the timing belt off. If the pan is vibrating it sounds like you have something hitting it . Look for wear marks. Also check to see if the flywheel is hitting something.
Did you even listen to the video? It's not a nocking ticking or even grinding. And it was an automatic before and I thought it was the pump in the trans. Now it's a 5 speed. Nothing is grinding on the trans side as I just did the swap and everything was normal. It's a loud humming noise more than anything. Pan was spotless also. Ill have to get a stethoscope sometime tho
Nope, I didn't watch the video, Just went by what you said. Now by listening to it, That is an odd noise. It almost sounds like the noise I had when I had a hole in my intercooler hose. Im just going off the sounds in the video. You cant really isolate it from the video though.
It doesn't sound like a bearing, rubbing or grinding anything. The vibration from the pan could just be coincidence. The 2.2/2.5 all vibrate. They aren't the smoothest engine out there. Other things I have seen cause this similar noise are stuffed exhaust/cat. But really, Its tough to pinpoint the type of noise from the video.
He has narrowed it down pretty well.
Not a tranny issue, even changed tranny.
Not an accessory issue, removed and tried.
Doesn't sound to be coming from valvetrain.
No metal in pan and everything looked good inside.
I thought I saw that you used a used oil pump. Why? It doesn't matter right now I guess.
Just some guesses:
Turbo seizing up?
Leaking intercooler hose?
Clogged exhaust?
Timing belt overtight?
I bought a Daytona once with a timing belt not tensioned right and it hummed like mad.
Turbo spools fine to 15psi and just had the hose off for the swap and didn't see any issues in any of them. What cat? I mean yea it's there but it's hollow. It could be a timing belt and such but its weird as hell the sound goes away ya know.
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As for the oil pump it was off a motor my friend built with less than 5k on it and it was new from the dealer
Noises are weird man. When I worked for Ford, I worked with the engineers tracking noises on cars. Then we had to find solutions. Then the number crunchers told us no you cant do it right, It will cost too much. It looks to me like you are getting close to finding the issue. Check that belt and if that's not it then get the stethoscope on it. If you don't have one, Harbor Freight has them for like $2. You can also use a long metal extension or a pipe in a bind. Hell, I have even used a cut down broom stick. Just stick one end on the part and the other on your ear. It works like the stethoscope.
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