Naturally Aspriated Tall Deck TIII

[Ondonti]

No, why?

I was thinking the wrong way but is it possible to gear the other direction and avoid 3rd gear? If you can make the power you might be faster. I share the same gearing concern with our 5 speeds and high rpms. They are not very compatible. Easy decision if cost and certainty of success is your priority.

[Vigo]

I was thinking more along the lines of 3.72 FD... AND 20" slicks. That would have you doing ~105mph @ 6500 rpm. Would be nice to be able to take 3rd higher but that is pretty darn close.

24.5s and regular 3.02 FD would have you at 102mph @ 6500 in 2nd.. But i cant see how that would be quicker with so much less 'gearing under the curve'.

[Ondonti]

I was thinking more along the lines of 3.72 FD... AND 20" slicks. That would have you doing ~105mph @ 6500 rpm. Would be nice to be able to take 3rd higher but that is pretty darn close.

24.5s and regular 3.02 FD would have you at 102mph @ 6500 in 2nd.. But i cant see how that would be quicker with so much less 'gearing under the curve'.

This is where finding the right converter would become important. No turbo will mean the converter doesn't have the ability to do what people here do to cheat (no brake boosting) and flash the converter higher.
Is this going to be a lockup converter or a very high rpm converter or what?

According to Franks calculator even with 3.7 gears I think the crossing rpm would be even lower then Rob is calculating. I don't know how much slip % you guys estimate in most of the Torque converters people are using.

On the high rpm side of things, even a 3.72 gear will probably make 110mph @ 9000 rpms 2nd gear depending on the converter.

Now, one thing about 4 valve heads is that you can make power @ high rpms without necessarily killing off the bottom end. You can have a wider powerband then a 2 valve no matter what the torque heads want to think. That is a fact. If your powerband makes 250 @ 7,000 and 300+ @ 9,000 you will probably go faster because you will probably not lose much @ 5,000 and 4,000.
It really depends on that converter and how the car launches out of first gear. I don't know if a high stall converter will eat so much power that it becomes worthless. I worry more about that then using 2 gears vs 3. Run 20" tires like Vigo said and you can eat 1st and 2nd gears at high rpm and still cross @ 7000 in 3rd. I don't know what your car will launch like and if small tires will hurt this kind of setup.

I am very sure someone was offering to make billet transfer gears of a very high ratio this last year (5?).
Money will solve all problems and I know there are converters out there which are high rpms but efficient so they don't eat up your power.

[ShelGame]

Here's a good in-car video of Tim Kish's Neon - http://youtu.be/VvpwLiHxrlE

At 12.63, that's one of his faster runs. Interesting things - he's shifting at 10k (apparently automatically, his hands never leave the wheel); and he's crossing at about 9500rpm, at 109mph in this run. Assuming a 10% converter slip, that gives somewhere near a 5.50 final drive. Wow! Big gears...

[Shadow]

Do you know which trans he uses? Huge advantage of the 41TE is that is has a lot more FD options And much more desirable ones to boot! (4:10 and higher)

It can also be programmed so you would never need to take your hands off the wheel

[Vigo]

It says in the video info that he's using the 3spd with a 5.21:1 final drive with an air shifter running off a Biondo Shift Controller.

[ShelGame]

It says in the video info that he's using the 3spd with a 5.21:1 final drive with an air shifter running off a Biondo Shift Controller.

I didn't see that. He still seems to leave slow to me. Not sure if it's his converter or what...

[Vigo]

I thought so too. But, even at ~4900 rpm, a strong 2.0 is only going to make ~140tq i would think.

[INVUJerry]

I can't remember his tq numbers, he's also only running a 22" tire. Art Leong is running a 2.4 with 20" tall tires. I can't remember much specs he has other than a 2.4 13:1 compression and "crane 28" cams. He was making maybe 230ish HP, but short shifting it to keep the numbers down.

[ShelGame]

I can't remember his tq numbers, he's also only running a 22" tire. Art Leong is running a 2.4 with 20" tall tires. I can't remember much specs he has other than a 2.4 13:1 compression and "crane 28" cams. He was making maybe 230ish HP, but short shifting it to keep the numbers down.

Ah, I thought Tim was running a 23" tire. But, it's been a while since he and I were at the same race.

[ShelGame]

What's a good way to grind cast iron? Like a fairly large amount of cast iron? Anyone recommend a good source for grinding tools? I need to start working on this block.

I want to 'window' the webs between 1&2 and 3&4 similar to the 2.4.

[ShelGame]

Long time with no update.

I went to the Mopar Madness day at Milan Dragway today. Picked up a Hooker long tube header for an 8V. I think it might work well with the Lotus head; with a new flange, of course. I'll post pics later.

[ShelGame]

Header pics. Brand new, Hooker long-tube header. Got it at the swap meet for $100...

[83scamp]

Header pics. Brand new, Hooker long-tube header. Got it at the swap meet for $100...

Dang man! That's a smoking deal. Last time I looked up that header, they were going for close to $300!!!

A friend of mine went to Milan on Saturday. Said he was kind of disappointed in the turnout. He took his 64 Plymouth up. Unfortunately, he was eliminated in the second round.

[zin]

Header pics. Brand new, Hooker long-tube header. Got it at the swap meet for $100...

Does it show a part number anywhere? I've got a pile of old headers from when Holley bought Hooker, but they had unboxed all of them and I don't have an old catalog to see what's what...

There are some that are remarkably similar looking to a 8V, but I know aren't...

Mike

[ShelGame]

Whoa! How'd that get in here?



Do they usually crack here? Starting to chip away the filler already...





Like a glove. Almost.

[ATaylorRacing]

Header pics. Brand new, Hooker long-tube header. Got it at the swap meet for $100...

I used to use that kind of header on Matchbox....but driving it on the street would make them break from metal fatigue at the top of the flange...so the last set I had we cut off where all 4 tubes come together...and cut off the dump...then rewelded the dump to where we cut the header, making a shorter header that lasted longer on the street. BTW...always used lots of flex tubing back then too. A couple of months ago I used a gift certificate that I won to buy a new Hooker header...the newer version does NOT have all 4 tubes coming together until way down the length, so no longer able to shorted them easily, but motor is in there a ton stiffer and header metal fatigue should no longer be a problem

[2.216VTurbo]

"Usually crack there" would be an understatement Sir...

[ShelGame]

"Usually crack there" would be an understatement Sir...

For some reason, I thought they cracked more between 1/2 and 3/4. Not 2/3...

[Ondonti]

Well make sure to have a flexible bellows right after the header and use some sort of movable hanger to support the weight of the header.