$2013 GRM Lancer Shelby

[Vigo]

I am tapping off the coil positive wire to trigger the relay to turn on the power wire. Is that what you mean?

[c2xejk]

So how much extra pressure/flow are you expecting the external pump to buy you? Was the external cheaper than upgrading the stock internal?

[Vigo]

It was cheaper because i already had it and it may be removed later so it is easier to undo as well. It is actually the pump that came off Anthony's turbo 3.0 van years ago!

It is just insurance, really. If i run 55 base pressure (with a proper cal...) and 20+ psi boost i am getting into the zone where stock internal pumps lose tons of volume and start bypassing internally. Running an external in series should give me TONS of headroom (a couple hundred hp worth) in the fuel pump department. Just one less thing to worry about.

I also have an in-cab fuel pressure gauge. I am really trying to both make good power and not blow it up. Wideband, fuel pressure, individual knock monitoring.. Hopefully i will not regret leaving out an EGT!

[Reaper1]

Good luck!

[Vigo]

I take shitty pictures at night.


Barely visible in this blurry image is the 12ga power feed coming off the alt charging post. It runs along the AC low side hose (where there is a fuse holder you cant see) to a relay i mounted next to the AC drier. The relay coil is energized by a wire going to the coil positive terminal and grounded through the mounting bolt. So, from there on the wire is only hot when the ASD relay is on. The wire basically follows the fuel lines from the firewall all the way back to the external pump.

[Vigo]

Got a lot of stuff done today!

Replaced the dead 3-wire o2 sensor with a 4-wire o2 sensor i pulled off a motor that has been sitting in the rain for at least 4 years. It works.
Reset the fuel pressure closer to where it should be with normal fuel trims.
Zip tied all the vacuum lines under the hood.
Made an overflow bottle.
Put a working radiator cap on the car.
Painted the gauge panel black and screwed it down.
Fixed the driver's door power window that decided to break a week ago.
Found out i lost half the odd-ball fasteners required to reassemble the back seat.
Knocked the rust off the ugly quarter panel and began "repairs".
Chopped and installed the Jeep springs.
Installed a rear sway bar.
Vacuumed the interior and reinstalled some trim stuff.
Took the car on a ~7 mile test drive. "Yup, it works. Stupid rich. Need more boost."
Installed a better driver's seat for 'high performance driving'.


Jeep springs. Got the cut right on the first try for once!

Surface rust removal on 1/4 panel.

Gauge plate. Wish we had time for nitrous install so i could add some switches to that empty space!

Seat we swapped in. Some kind of Daytona seat. Y'all probably know more about it than i do but i think it's called the power enthusiast seat? It has power adjustable 'wings' on top and bottom and an inflatable lumbar adjustment. When i took the Aries to 09 Challenge it literally had h-body (Lancer et al) seats in it and i was so unsupported i had to drive with one arm hugging the outside of the door for support. This one actually tightens up enough to feel very sporty with the wings. I have a matching pass seat and would like to eventually get them upholstered to match the car.



More work and pics tomorrow!

[Johnny]

i was so unsupported

Not good to drive with one hand !
I have a easy, cheap solution for you. Go to a craft or fabric store.
Buy some wide (2" or wider) webbing with click/snap ends…one female, one male.
Get it the length that will go around you and the seat. The idea is to use it like a seat
belt around your chest. Works great.
I did this and had so many people wanting to borrow it.

[Vigo]

Well, me and Matt (teammate who now owns my old 87 Shelby Lancer) sat down with a chip burner and got a 3-bar/+40s Turbonator cal in the car. Many thanks to Aries_Turbo (Brian) for walking us through issues and giving us advice on tune setup. Many apologies to Shelgame (Rob) who i was dialing when i picked up the call from Brian and i think i left a 39-minute blank voicemail on his phone.

So, got the cal in the car and more or less functional. Found out my knock sensor is on the fritz so i've got to replace that.

Also, anti-lag did not work but i MAY have seen a coolant temp problem when scrolling through scanner stuff to find my messed up knock sensor data, so i will investigate that first.

Also thought there may have been a boost control problem since i was getting 5psi, creeping to cutout on stock cal. I think the boost controller was just turned down too many turns and making me think it wasnt doing anything because it was out of its working range. I got my minimum boost up but i think it is still creeping. I won't figure that out for sure until i have a good knock sensor in it.

On a hard right turn i have a bad wobble/bind feeling from the front left. I think an axle might be bottoming out. I'm going to try to shift the drivetrain over a little bit and see if it clears up.

[ShadowFromHell]

Any reason you use the cherokee coils? If your looking for different rates TJ, ZJ, and XJ coils all interchange. They will raise/lower the rig depending on what you are swapping but if you just trying to get a stiffer rate, using V8 ZJ coils might get you there, they were the heaviest with that style coil. Years ago I saw a guy that used 4wd f150 coils to lift a XJ. They lifted it but the guy said it made it way to stiff, but that might be a good thing to you. I dont know if he used 70's straight axle coils or coils from a 80s TTB truck. Might be worth looking into for a cheap stiff coil .

[Vigo]

Well, guys...

Sorry to disappoint. My team just fell apart.

The 3 of us had initially worked out a deal about who would contribute what to the Challenge effort.

Unfortunately things have changed for my teammates and the original deal is no longer in force. I was never in a position to make this trip by myself and i'm not in a position to be able to take up the slack financially, or expose myself to any further 'surprises' that would drive the cost up even more. I would have gotten to Florida about this time, but c'est la vie. I hope to try again next year. There were some very cool people waiting on me to bring parts, race, and hang out with, and next year i plan to make it up to them. Fastasleep (Les) has been especially gracious and stepped up in every way to make it possible for me to go, but driving 40 hours solo there and back just didn't seem like a good idea and i couldn't rustle up any 'alternates' to make sure i stayed awake on the road, so in the end i made the call to sit it out.

I am continuing to work on the car:
Coolant temp signal is fine.
Knock sensor was NOT fine, i've replaced it but havent test driven much since then.
I found my interior hardware and reassembled the rear interior.
Rearranged the gauges with the wideband on top for easier viewing.
Zip tied the vac lines under the dash and tied up all the hanging wiring.


I have not begun real tuning yet because of the knock sensor issue and when i found out i wasnt leaving today i took the rest of the day pretty slow. First tuning issue i see is that the computer thinks the engine is at 10" vac when it is really closer to 20". I'm not surprised since im running a $20 China 3-bar map. Once you give it any throttle it goes to switching around stoich but it is idling very poorly at richer than 10:1 until i can adjust that in the cal.


As for the Cherokee coils, i picked them because they were about the easiest thing to find on CL quick cheap. There are a few reasons for this: Stock Cherokee springs are not any stiffer than stock shelby springs, and you wouldnt find them on CL often anyway, so i was looking for aftermarket lift kit springs because lift kit = longer spring which generally = stiffer for any given length. 10" of a lift kit spring should be stiffer than 10" of a stock spring. Since they are aftermarket parts they get listed on CL more often rather than scrapped. And finally, since XJs only have one pair of coil springs (leafs in back) it is easier to find only a pair of aftermarket coils vs a full set that sellers won't want to part out.

The springs are not as stiff as i would have hoped for but they were a good improvement for the $30 i paid. I'll definitely consider running f150 springs in the future! Got any idea on year range?

[Vigo]

My teammate Matt had asked his 12y/o son to pick the theme for our team. He chose Pokemon. In order to visually represent that it was decided we should paste over the dent and unfinished bodywork on the RR quarter with Pokemon cards.






Even though im not going to GRM this year, i think i'll leave the Pokemon for a while and soak up the interesting reactions on the road.

[Johnny]

Next Year!

[Vigo]

So i have a tentative date with the dragstrip Dec. 11. Hopefully Matt and i will be able to get it tuned 'well enough' by then.

It was 89 degress yesterday so hopefully it will be better turbo weather in December. <img src="/media/img/icons/smilies/crazy-18.png" alt="" />

I took a weekend COMPLETELY away from 'car stuff' but drove the car a couple miles before going to bed last night to psych myself up a little.

Now that i have time on my side again i want to fix the wheel offset. I dont like running these shelby lancer wheels but if i'm going to, i have to fix the offset. I can easily make some brake spacers for the rear, and i will probably press in some longer Ford Taurus studs i have on the front and see if i can run 10mm of wheel spacer.

15x6.5 +40 Yuck!

I put the rear interior back together. It's still very dusty from storage. Need to install those front speakers sometime.

[blk86trbo]

This car is really neat...it seems as though there aren't too many H body projects, let alone a Lancer Shelby. Keep up the good fight, and thanks for sharing pics

[2.216VTurbo]

Meh, life gets in the way for all of us, one of the bosses I work for was sooo proud of his new $185K Ferarri a year ago, it's gone now and I just delivered and old car of mine to him last weekend so he would have *something* to drive around the track with his buddies. Even the $5M/yr guys aren't immune to it

[BadAssPerformance]

+1 to what the others said and A+++ for effort, love the project and cant wait to see how it does!

[Vigo]

BAD NEWS GOD DAMNIT ----ING %#$#%^ :

So i have a grand total of 150-ish miles on the rebuilt, never-run bottom end, and it's thrashed. I took a ~80 mile round trip to a friend's house to do some fuel tuning. It started making noise on the way there. I could only hear it under light load from 2700-3400 rpm or so. It started out just sounding like the lifters were aerated and clacking. My friend has a 2.2 that's made that noise for years so i just checked the oil (fine) and said "ill figure this out later". Made a few WOT pulls, burned a chip, and headed home. By the time i got home it sounded like a can of rocks and there is bearing material EVERYWHERE now.

This motor NEVER lost oil pressure on the gauge. I'm wondering if one of the oil passages in the block between the main oil galley and the mains is restricted. I wont know until i take it apart. But i'm not going to take it apart until i'm ready to put it back together, because right now it's self-propelled and if i take it apart just for curiosity it'll be one more car i'll have to push.

I WILL put another 2.5 in it. I just have to decide which one, and when.

[BadAssPerformance]

Ouch, sorry to hear man!

Just curious, what internals are in it?

[Vigo]

To be honest, i dont know. I think it's a stock rebuild. I dont know what kind of machine work has been done. It was rebuilt at least 2 owners ago and never used so details got lost along the way.

[ShadowFromHell]

Come on Vigo... any TM owner worth his salt has a pile of useable motors laying around. Should be a easy fix!