Power window refresh info

[player1up]

So I know some have had issues with the power windows in the Consulier. I've been able to get the regulator out to remove the motor and replace the gear.

My problem was the felt / velvet in the window track had come unglued and bunched up at the bottom, thus causing tension at the gear when the window got to that point in the track. The issue was the 3 rollers that are inside the motor disintegrated when trying to roll the window up and down with additional pressure due to the track problem. The rollers are around 7/16 of an inch in diameter and I used some plastic stock that I had floating around, shaped with a dremel and viola, works like a champ.

The setup is fairly straight forward.
It has tracks on both sides with the regulator slider on the bottom edge of the window in a horizontal orientation.
Window motor ( part number 4336601 for the drivers side ) has 3 mounting points but only one is accessible without removing the regulator from it's mount.
The regulator has 3 7/16 nuts that hold it to the hinge. The door hinge extends into the door to allow the regulator to mount to it.

The tricky part is getting the thing out. I had to remove one of the motor bolts ( the one closest to the front of the car, the only one that you can get to the front and back sides ) to get the regulator out toward the back past the front window track. I can't post photos just yet, but when I can I'll include them. Besides, I still need to do the passenger side.

Once the regulator is out, you can remove the motor. Yes, they used the allen headed screws in there too, and the little nut size is 1/4

I haven't taken the tracks out to reinstall the pile slider stuff just yet, but I'm guessing the glass will have to come out. The stuff that came out of the track is unbeaded pile glass channel and is NOT rubber backed. It appears to be fabric glued in place and is VERY specific. I'll try to get some measurements of it tonight but it looks like it'll be hard to come by even if it's stock chrysler

Notes:
1. Be really careful with the door panel ( duh ) as it's some sort of grey cardboard that feels pretty soft. If you door panels wrap up onto the curved part by the window ( not all do ), use this opportunity to re-curve the top edge, they'll go back on easy and look nicer instead of having a huge gap around the top from pulling away from the door like mine.
2. The little plastic surrounds for the door handles are a pain and mine are already missing a couple of the mounting tabs. They pull away at the front ever so slightly then slide back to come off.
3. If the rollers have been crushed into little plastic bits, make sure you get them ALL out of the motor gear so they don't bind up later.
4. This is also a really good time to grease the door lock mechanisms if they're sticking.

[looneytuner]

That sounds like the Mopar power windows going back into the 70's!

[Johnny]

Just yesterday mine went jump jump, then would not go up.

[player1up]

I don't mean to laugh...but hahaha ..Aaron called me yesterday as well, said the passenger window went down and went clunk clunk when he tried to roll it back up.

Oh, and when I say that the rollers were in little pieces...like the biggest piece was 3mm across.

The part number on the gear is cardone 82-94 and comes with the inner gear ( metal ), the outer gear ( plastic ), and the 3 rollers.
The rollers are like 7/16ths or about .43 something inches

Both the metal gear and the outer plastic gear were fine on the drivers side, just the rollers shattered

[Johnny]

Where did you buy the parts? I can order them but my parts places dont have them.

[cordes]

rock auto has the metal gear/plastic gear/three rollers combo for close to $20 shipped.

I hear that autozone etc. has the plastic rollers in the help section, but I haven't confirmed. I've only ever broken the rollers.

[player1up]

Johnny, Autozone had the gear at the main store for the area. I could have driven 30 miles to get it but tolls and almost $4 per gallon, I waited for the store to have it moved on their dime. Neither Advance or AutoZone had them in the help section, I looked

[looneytuner]

You guys are lucky. I think all you could do years ago is buy the whole motor for about 190!

[Johnny]

Going to AutoZone to order it now, will be here Tuesday morning.

[Johnny]

Got there and they said Wednesday...so didn't buy it. Got the "HELP!" part number 74410.
it is only three roller bushings. Said for Ford, but they worked perfect.
My gear was still good. So just cleaned out the old roller bushings which were ground to tiny pieces.
Re-lubed and now all back together and works perfect.

[cordes]

Thanks for that window motor part number Johnny. That will come in handy later for sure. I'm also sure that it beats buying the unneeded gears.

[player1up]

I did the passenger window over the weekend and found that the rollers had been replaced with steel nuts, they then twisted sideways and broke the outer plastic gear... LOL. The main issue I think is that the pile inside the window channel bunches up and causes too much tension on the gear. My windows work now, but I can hear the motors straining to move the window. I'll be taking the tracks out sometime soon to see what I can do about the felt / pile lining, but it looks like they are generic and came with the lining already glued in

[Chris W]

I did the passenger window over the weekend and found that the rollers had been replaced with steel nuts, they then twisted sideways and broke the outer plastic gear... LOL. The main issue I think is that the pile inside the window channel bunches up and causes too much tension on the gear. My windows work now, but I can hear the motors straining to move the window. I'll be taking the tracks out sometime soon to see what I can do about the felt / pile lining, but it looks like they are generic and came with the lining already glued in

My regulator gear is worn and actually missing a tooth. Did anyone track down a part number or replacement?