Powder coating 'Turbo I' airbox and snorkel

[iTurbo]

That looks awesome! Nice to see someone actually put together a clean, stock, T1 motor.

Thanks Tyler. This is only the second motor I've built from the ground up. The first was a 2.2L TIII for the Spirit R/T I sold to a local friend I did earlier this year. After that I decided to go from the ground up....the TI is done, I have a TII to do next, then some TIIIs....then some really cool stuff after that. Thankfully I get better/faster at it with each build!

[cordes]

That is awesome. Nice work sir.

[Turbo224]

Thanks Tyler. This is only the second motor I've built from the ground up. The first was a 2.2L TIII for the Spirit R/T I sold to a local friend I did earlier this year. After that I decided to go from the ground up....the TI is done, I have a TII to do next, then some TIIIs....then some really cool stuff after that. Thankfully I get better/faster at it with each build!

Its much better to learn on the cheaper stuff than risk blowing up a 16v motor. Good choice!

[iTurbo]

Thanks guys. It was a fun project to try to do something different. I think what got me started on trying to PC plastic parts was the fact that the noobs on the CSRT forums were saying it couldn't be done (and vendors...go figure). They were saying I would have to buy an Evo X valve cover (cast alum) and PC that to do what I wanted for my Caliber. Well I definitely proved them wrong, but it's not they like they would ever listen anyway. I know I'm not the first person to do something like this. I read a post on some forum I can't remember about a technique called 'hot flocking' to powder coat parts where static adhesion was limited. Between that and the state of modern thermoplastics I thought I would give it a try... Hot flocking basically means using heat to attract the powder to the part.

I appreciate the comments though. The guys I work with are like, "yeah, Chrysler four cylinder motor, BFD". Oh well, they don't seem to have any hobbies aside from watching football and drinking beer anyway. (...although I admit I like beer too..)

I'll be posting a thread in the Project Log forum when I have all my ducks in a row for this motor and my Omni GLH Turbo. Some of you might remember the setup I used to have in that which was a 2.5L TI, big NPR intercooler etc... it's going to look a lot different being all stock again but I will enjoy it just as much if not more. There is a pic of the old setup in my Garage page. I had a lot of fun with that setup when I used to deliver pizza at Dominos!

[86Shelby]

Those pieces look fantastic. Job well done!

I seem to remember an engine bay looking eerily similar to the one in your Omni in the die cast car that I bought a few years back as well....

[iTurbo]

Those pieces look fantastic. Job well done!

I seem to remember an engine bay looking eerily similar to the one in your Omni in the die cast car that I bought a few years back as well....

Holy cow, so I'm not the only one that thought so!!

My MOM bought me one of those Omni GLH die cast models from eBay for Christmas. Imagine my surprise when I popped the hood and it looked so much like my own Omni GLH under the hood! I told my mom it was the best Christmas gift ever!

[sl3196]

Looks really good, nice work jeremy!

[iTurbo]

Thanks Dan/Ray/Vic/Cordes/Tyler. I am a bit surprised as I was sure people would see wrinkle brown and be aghast at the color choice. I got the Chestnut Wrinkle Brown powder from http://www.roseyspowdercoating.com I also have a blue wrinkle and architectural bronze from them that I like a lot and may use in the future.

Next engine I do will be an '87 Turbo II for my Shelby Lancer which currently has rod bearings that are beat to a pulp. I have a real hard time thinking of anything that looks better than black wrinkle for a Turbo II though. I like red wrinkle, but I feel it would be too much red unless it was a TIII. I have a very special set of TIII valve covers/intake from Ray in wrinkle red that I can't wait to use for a future project!

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

thread is a little old but I'll add that if you want the lettering and fins on the air cleaner lid "chrome" , some chrome trim tape of some sort would work
IF the glue will stay stuck to the part and the finish dosen't age to much , to fast

I've used regular metal duct tape to do this before but it oxidizes pretty quick - though that matches the ageing of the bare aluminum valve cover fins pretty well

a chrome tape can also be used to restore the lettering on badges etc

[GLHNSLHT2]

While I don't care for the brown the work looks quality. One thing is that maybe get a sanding block that you can attach some sandpaper too and sand the letters one way. This will put a grain on them and make them look a little more "machined" than just sanding in odd directions. Or an aluminum block that's flat with double sided tape on it you can stick sand paper too and then cut the overlap of the paper off with an exact-o-knife.

[black86glhs]

A little late, but these older plastics start to get soft around 350-400 degrees. They won't get mushy until they have been exposed to these temps for a while, but be careful. The blistering was most likely the off gassing Mike mentioned. That is what I meant by the start to get soft. That is the first step.
With that out of the way, I think they turned out good. Nice work Jeremy.

[iTurbo]

While I don't care for the brown the work looks quality. One thing is that maybe get a sanding block that you can attach some sandpaper too and sand the letters one way. This will put a grain on them and make them look a little more "machined" than just sanding in odd directions. Or an aluminum block that's flat with double sided tape on it you can stick sand paper too and then cut the overlap of the paper off with an exact-o-knife.

Thanks, I've given a lot of thought on how to get the letters to turn out better. I definitely want the brushed aluminum or 'machined' look, but I have never quite been satisfied with the results so far. I think I have a block that I could wrap some sand paper around, but am unsure of grit # to use and wether or not I should wet sand it or dry?

About the brown color, the more I look at it the more I like it, especially the matte gloss of the wrinkle powders. I will very likely be adding the old Direct Connection top mounted intercooler setup to this engine soon as well.

[86Shelby]

I have wet sanded the lettering on valve covers whenever possible. Putting them in the kitchen sink with the water running when no one else is around works well for me. I usually start with 4-500 grit and end up with 7-800 grit.

[HSKR]

I would probably do a two stage powder process with the color you want the lettering as your base coat, then masking them off with the high temp tape and then applying your main color. Then a clear over everythign to smooth out the edges.