i have an 89 daytona shelby with a 2.5 tii in it but its a factory ti 2.5 so it has the mitsu... it has a 3' fwd perfomace cat back on the car and i have it set to run 5 psi ( right to manifold) and near redline in 3,4,5 it spikes. right to like 14 pounds but have never hit cutoff. i want to run about 13psi bbut if i get a mbc and set it to run 13 wouldnyt it spike way higher then?!?!?!!?!?
That is not a boost spike, that is boost creep. Nothing a boost controller can do will fix that. You need to increase the flow of the wastegate system. You pretty much have to take the turbo off the car to do that since the wastegate is 'internal'. Most people just replace it with a larger turbo rather than upgrading the tiny mitsu and putting it back on.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Just pit on a stock t3 chryco turbo. Should give you a little more airflow, and less issueswith boost creep.
this was definately a budget build... and a rush build considering how impatient i am! i got the car last sunday night and had it plated and on the road last wednesday night... it had no motor in it and was just a rolling shell. if i had it apart i would definately go garrett and probably change the diff gears in the 555 to something more highway friendly
The scroll has significantly less area than other turbos available for the application.
The problem can be minimized if not eliminated by opening the wastegate hole in the turbine housing.
This will essentially shift the operating range of the wastegate system while reducing back-pressure and improving the over-all performance of the system.
lol now the hard part is you explaining to me why this is logical to do especially if i took the turbo out of the car why i wouldnt just put a garrett back in? haha
You could put a really crap BOV on there that wont hold 14psi..
MinivanRider
trust me I thought about that! Lol instead I went to an exhaust shop and got myself a 3" to 2.5" adapter... Fixed!Originally Posted by Rrider
Ken please don't let this idiots response (dony348) to your post dampen your helpful spirit. Your reply's are always appreciated by 99.9 % of the list.
Thanks
Randy
There is no logical reason to call an Engine a motor.
Randy Hicks
86 GLHS60
86 GLHS 373 : SOLD, but never forgotten
89 Turbo Minivan
83 Turbo Rampage : SOLD
Edmonton,Alberta,Canada
Interesting information. I'd never heard this before and thanks for posting. What is in this hole from the factory, some kind of pipe plug?
[B]Scott[/B] 86 GLHS #408 88 Shadow ES 92 Spirit R/T 04 SRT-4
There's nothing in it, it's just too small...
Gotcha, what 5DIGITS meant was make the hole larger. I've been fooling with turbo Dodges for 20 years now, but my Shadow is really the first one with a Mitsu turbo that I've played with. I want to open up the exhaust a bit more (car has stock original exhaust) but the boost creep issue is something I was worried about.
[B]Scott[/B] 86 GLHS #408 88 Shadow ES 92 Spirit R/T 04 SRT-4
Whoa randy why so harsh? I was merely stating if I had the car apart again that it would be logical to go with the Garrett? I was just wondering what I could do to the mitsu to help my issue... Especially when you were the one I was talking to on what to do?!?!
See, what happened is... Everyone is super nice to 5DIGITS because he knows more than the rest of us and we want to keep him around and soak it up, so we get twitchy when anyone is giving him snark. Having said that, im pretty sure everything is completely fine and we should all act normal now.
Conventional wisdom is if you are taking the mitsu off, you 'might as well' replace it with a stock garrett turbo since it doesn't require very much extra work and solves the creep issue along with letting you make about 70-80 more hp if you want to. So, i agree with you.
The only way i would keep a mitsu is on a 2.2/auto street car and even then i'd be tempted to upgrade the compressor wheel. In fact, i HAVE a mitsu with an upgraded comp wheel and clipped turbine im looking for an excuse to use, and im still having a hard time coming up with a justification to use it.
Also, i guess im probably one of the few people who has swapped from mitsu to garrett to mitsu to garrett on the same car. That is not a typo. Having done that, on top of my other mitsu to garrett swaps that STAYED garrett, i can say if you have a choice it's REALLY hard to justify running a mitsu over a stock garrett.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
This car has become very controllable with a few little changes! All I did was I put a 3" to a 2-1/2" adaptor on the end of my exhaust... The other... I hooked an airline to the waste gate and make sure full range of motion... Which it eased up after a few full stretches... I then made my vacuum line more "mainstream" to the waste gate pretty simple cost me $5
as for randy I will leave that alone! I just found it kind of surprising he said that considering I bought the engine off of him and we've had nothing but positive in person interactions ... But whatever
Well said.
Thanks
Randy
[QUOTE=Vigo;1014407]See, what happened is... Everyone is super nice to 5DIGITS because he knows more than the rest of us and we want to keep him around and soak it up, so we get twitchy when anyone is giving him snark. Having said that, im pretty sure everything is completely fine and we should all act normal now.
There is no logical reason to call an Engine a motor.
Randy Hicks
86 GLHS60
86 GLHS 373 : SOLD, but never forgotten
89 Turbo Minivan
83 Turbo Rampage : SOLD
Edmonton,Alberta,Canada
Agree. I left the Mitsu on my Shadow because the shaft was nice and tight and being an 88 2.2 T1 w/ light weight rods I did not want to push beyond 14lbs. Right now the car, with the boost at 14 and 87 CSX rad/ic, is a nice driver. If I want to go faster I'll be putting a stouter shortblock in and using a Garrett.
[B]Scott[/B] 86 GLHS #408 88 Shadow ES 92 Spirit R/T 04 SRT-4
Being nice is hopefully a collective effort for all and extended to all, so we embrace why forum and clubs of this nature exist - to support the spirit and enthusiasm that surrounds these cars.
If the Mitsu turbo is currently being utilized for its lower rotating inertia and responsiveness but increased exhaust flow is desired, the turbo can remain on the car to perform the upgrade.
If so..
Select a cylinder and insure the exhaust valve is open so an amount of compressed air can be supplied at the spark plug hole and in turn flow from the cylinder and into the exhaust.
The front (and rear if equipped) engine mount(s) can be unbolted to allow the engine to pivot and improve access, if desired.
With the exhaust down pipe removed and before applying the compressed air, the wastegate valve position should be marked in order to capture the valve disc mating position.
This can be accomplished by spraying a small amount of white paint into the turbo elbow to generate a 'witness mark' so the by-pass hole can be ground without exceeding the contact area, once the elbow has been removed.
(The method of compressed air can also be used to support porting an engine mounted intake manifold for a larger throttle body)
If not..
A Garrett unit is also receptive to the same and other modifications prior to installation.
In both cases and at the discretion of the end user, there is a common benefit of increased responsiveness and over-all performance gain.
Thanks
Last edited by 5DIGITS; 10-17-2013 at 06:14 PM.
im just ondering what you use to grind it? do you have to stick a dremel tool into the turbine housing and grind it like that? i know katlaw has a garrett laying around somewhere... meh ill just use this one till it granades lol
Regardless of which turbo you select:
A cylinder head porting tool or a dremel will both work well and a 1/4" - 1/2" steel cutting bit will be easier to manage.
Thanks
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