Yea whats up with that red fabric? That chit must be made of kevlar.
Yea whats up with that red fabric? That chit must be made of kevlar.
MinivanRider
Oh yeah! A stripped out 5spd van has actually gone into the 12s on a stock garrett but i think low 13s is just about all they can do as a non-stripped street car (other than the 200lb of removable bench seats) unless you are running it to the ragged ragged edge, and a lot of people have broken stuff going slower. As cool as the vans are there arent many people who have made good passes without dumping tons of work or money into them.His is 5 speed, should be fun!!
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Not without slicks and the boost cranked to the max. I'd rather run a larger turbo that'll live for a while.
I look forward to seeing your progress. Glad I'm not the only beginner on here! Everyone seems so knowledgeable. At least we are able to get good info!
Yeah, you absolutely will never get into the 13s without slicks. And a stronger clutch. All in good time!
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
I am making very slow progress on this. Between school and work I don't have a lot of time to spend on it, that and I have no idea what I'm doing... Anyway, the two piece intake has a few extra vacuum ports on it. Does anyone have a diagram for it or know where to route them? Also now do I go about wiring up the charge air temperature sensor? I've read that it is turned off in the 89 T1 motors but a custom cal will fix that. Is there a plug already there or do I have to wire it up myself?
Any extra ports on the intake you would simply plug. The intake is a supplier. It doesn't 'need' anything to be hooked up, its the stuff that hooks up that needs the intake. So once all your important air lines are hooked up, everything else on the manifold is just a spare port.
As for the charge temp sensor wiring, you will have to run one wire all the way to the main 60-way connector on the computer. The other wire from the sensor will go to ground, which could be of any length depending on where you choose to ground it to. The good news is that the charge temp sensor should screw right into one of the spare ports on the 2pc once you unscrew whatever little hose barb adapter is currently in there.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Awesome, thanks for the info.
So I finally got the mini running a few days ago. It has the two piece intake, garrett turbo and the 3 in swingvalve out to the 3 inch exhaust. I have to get a BOV mount welded onto my intercooler before I can put that on. So its still under 10 lbs of boost (doesn't spike like it did with the mitsu) but it feels pretty quick for a van and sounds ridiculous. I love hearing the turbo spool up on a minivan. I cleaned it up and took a couple pictures, looks nice being 25 years old.
Here is where I mounted my gauges. Just a piece of sheet metal bent and slipped behind the dash. Its not drilled into anything so if I change my mind I can move it and not have any holes to look at. I plan on painting it black when I put another gauge on.
Last edited by Old Man Jones; 05-23-2014 at 02:45 PM. Reason: Fix Pictures
I'm not seeing any pics
Me either
Whats the best way to post pics? I can see then when I am logged in but not as a guest.
Now that I've finished with finals I can play with the van some more. Its smokes a bit and I'm trying to figure out why. I think the turbo I put in was already on the way out, it had been sitting for a few years before I put it in. It does not smoke right when I start up but I notice it when I come to a stop or start it back up after a few minutes of sitting. I really don't want to have to pull the head again and buy a new turbo...but it would also give me an excuse to get a Super 60.
you don't have to pull the head to get the turbo out. It's just easier sometimes. You can start a photbucket account and then right click on the pic and select copy image location. Then use the pic icon in the reply window (4th from the right) to insert the URL and it'll post in your reply.
Take pics with your phone and upload through tapatalk
I think I fixed the pictures.
Any chance its something else before I pull it apart again?
If it doesnt smoke when the exhaust is cold but does smoke when the exhaust is hot, the oil is coming from either the exhaust valve guides/seals or the turbocharger's turbine-side seal.
If it were the intake guides/seals or the piston rings, it would burn the oil in the combustion chamber whether the engine was cold or not. If it was the compressor-side seal on the turbo, it would go through the combustion chamber and burn whether the engine was cold or not.
Oil leaks AFTER the combustion chamber only cause smoke when the exhaust heats up enough to burn the oil. You are probably right about the turbo.
Van looks great!
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Checking the spark plugs can help give an idea if you have oil in the chamber.
I would still listen to Vigo and wideband the van. Even people who cheat trying to rear narrowbands are just guessing because narrowband voltage changes drastically based on exhaust gas temperature for the same air fuel ratio. Having a tiny voltage window that suffers a huge change with 100 degrees of EGT difference is why everyone back in the day had to run race gas (not so many people ever talking about reading plugs).
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
I have broken pistons with detonation at 12 psi because i didnt have a wideband. I have also seen a local friend melt pistons (which is different) at stock boost as well.
Even stock boost is not necessarily safe boost. The only way to be reasonably sure is to know accurate AFR, which means you need a wideband.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
I picked up a wideband a few weeks ago, have not gotten around to putting it on yet. I suppose I should figure out how to put that on before I do something stupid.
Now as far as a new turbo goes, what should I look for? If I'm going to replace it I would like to upgrade from the t2 but I don't want to go broke either. I've read that the S60 is a good route for a heavy minivan but I don't know a lot about them.