another OBX pass axle no worky

[Speedeuphoria]

I think it is an alignment thing.and there is a very slight on center alignment discrepancy that is the issue.

I just tried mine again and still no dice, I agree 100% with the above 2 statements. I had it apart and the inner splined gear went over the pass axle w/ no probs, then stuck the axle in the housing and it went all the way in. I bolted it back together in a star pattern then torqued it the same then went around again to make sure. Tried the pass axle and it stops 5/8" short, tried it in the other side of the diff went right in. Took the driver side axle, same thing goes in on the one side and stops short on the other. Both are new reman axle's one from autozone and one from advanced auto. I tried w/ oil then cleaned and tried w/ grease, no difference, this is without the bearings pressed on.

It goes in the splines,
then stops short(hey thats my move )


this is just a vent thread,
whats the best course of action sand the axle or the diff?
I know what I'll be doing tomorrow sanding the OBX

[MiniMopar]

Get one of those brake caliper honing tools and hone-out the diff case after you press the bearings on.

[BadAssPerformance]

Hmmm *scratches head* What about trying to bolt it together with an axle in it?

[Speedeuphoria]

Hmmm *scratches head* What about trying to bolt it together with an axle in it?

thats exactly what I was just talking about w/ my friend

the inner gear with the splines sits on the other gear above the washers that don't like to sit flat because of their arrangement )()()( blah blah.

I will try it tomarrow, Either I will bolt it down and the axle won't come out, or it will be perfect.

The only thing I was thinking is that the washers may move a little later after uses but it should be OK I believe.

then if it doesn't fit after pressing the bearings on I will hone it

[BadAssPerformance]

Cool, let us know how it goes!

[rbryant]

They definately get tighter after pressing the bearings on. I test fitted my axles before and one was tight so I had it honed. After pressing in the bearings the other side is pretty tight... I am not sure I want to hone it out since it is in the tranny already so I guess I will take my chances on it not getting worse after driving it.

It also appears to be the axle its self that is tight for me not the splines so it doesn't seem like it will get tighter.

The washers really shouldn't be able to move after the install because they will be compressed a bit when you put the two halves together. This should put the washers inside of the lips on both sides of the inner gears and not allow them to move.

-Rich

[Speedeuphoria]

well I loosened the bolts so the axle would go all the way in. Then torqued them again. The axle had to be pounded out. I tried to put it back in many times and still no luck w/o force. I honed it out a little and installed the bearings and it is still a very hard fit. I guess I'll just run it and pound the axle in.

[87csx2.4]

dont pound the axle in it needs to be free in the case otherwise it will gall up the obx when one wheel is spining faster than the other.Take some calipers and measure your axle and measure a stock one sometime the aftermarket axles are a hair bigger.I guess I got lucky my axles slid in perfectly,although the first axle I tried was very tight so I took my calipers to auto zone and went for the smallest diameter of the 3 they had.

[Una]

I wonder how much it'd cost to take a completely disassembled OBX and have it heat treated.. Really sounds like they skipped that step.. Kinda like the TIII intermediate shafts..

[BadAssPerformance]

It depends on what kinda steel (having enough carbon) it is made out of if heat treating will add any value. How much? A 'Lot charge' for a simple heat treat is probably less than $200 around here.