Id be as concerned about any distortion caused by the welding that turns into a bigger distortion out at the pucks. The plate you'd be welding to is not very thick, and it's thinner than the other piece it's being welded to.
Id be as concerned about any distortion caused by the welding that turns into a bigger distortion out at the pucks. The plate you'd be welding to is not very thick, and it's thinner than the other piece it's being welded to.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
I just really don't want to have to pull the trans again in another week
- - - Updated - - -
I heard back from Clutch Net, they are replacing the disk under warranty. I'm still unsure if this clutch was a one off thing, or if this is just going to happen again.
I wouldn't have it welded. Between the possible distorsion mentioned and the tempering / annealing of the metal, I wouldn't modify the disc. It sucks to do big jobs more than once, but no point in modding the parts for almost certain failure.
I would hate to have to pull this back apart again in 150 miles (not too mention this isn't a limp it home breakage, and I've had it towed 3 times now in the past 6 months). If I had to replace it every 10,000-20,000 miles, that would be one thing and something I accept with a ceramic disk, but to spend hours pulling the transmission twice in as many weeks is starting to get old.Originally Posted by shadow88
When i first put the 4 puck in my aries i had the trans out 3 times in a month trying to make the setup work with the torque i was making (i was swapping pressure plates, mostly). It was definitely annoying.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
But could you double the rivets? It would have to be solid rivets and bucked.
I mean I guess I could, but I've never done it, nor do I have the tools
Tools are easy, anvil for base and 48oz hammer for soft rivets. Research rivets. Simple design and very strong, BUT a terror to take apart. For steel rivets a strong air hammer would be best. Also do some test rivets first and correct as needed.
Ehhh looking at the clutch hub this morning, I dunno. There isn't much space between the existing rivets.
I guess i would be pretty comfortable just drilling through in a bunch of places and adding dowels. If you use dowels that are shorter than the depth of the hole, you should be able to stake some metal in on both ends to make sure it doesnt walk back out.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
That might be a possibility, where would I get some dowels? Any particular material?
I have no idea on that one. Sorry..
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
New clutch arrived (after waiting another two weeks, bleh) and I had it welded by a local shop (the owner has a TD too, woot). It was welded on the flywheel side and the transmission side. So the hub is welded in two places to the main body of the clutch. I had the guy try it on the old clutch first and there didn't seem to be any issue so he did this one too.
I talked to a local machinist and he would've been able to balance the clutch if he had a tool small enough to go through the splines, but he didn't have anything that small. He also said he wouldn't have been too concerned with the balance if you kept the welds equidistant apart.
I'll throw the clutch in this week and see how it goes. The hub at least can't break from the main body.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote