Clutch Cable Manual Adjuster

[thx138]

Has anyone found a way to remove the cable adjuster stuff and make the cable manually adjustable? Pros and cons?

I am wondering if there is something better than playing around with 25 year old plastic bits in that adjuster mechanism.

Installed a new clutch and different trans (swapped out a 90 568 for a 91). Pedal now sits really high. When depressed it moves in a couple of inches before grabbing. Noticed a bunch of 'teeth' on the white plastic adjuster piece are worn off. Worked fine before the swap tho. (pulling the pedal up a couple of times did not do anything).

thnx

[135sohc]

Try swapping the clutch arm on the transmission... I will bet the farm your 91 has the lower clocked clutch arm and its putting more preload on everything.

Personally while I also dont like old plastic parts especially ones that take as much abuse/usage and are very critical to the cars operation the basic design is very sound and you can still get both of the tensioner pieces from the dealership if your old ones are worn out. Would be cool if someone would remake them in a billet steel version.

[thx138]

I measured the distance from the hole in the arm to the place where the end of the cable is positioned and both the 90 and 91 were the same distance. I thought about a spacer but that starts to smell of a jury-rig and then got to thinking about something more permanent and adjustable.

[tryingbe]

Buy new parts?

[Ondonti]

I measured the distance from the hole in the arm to the place where the end of the cable is positioned and both the 90 and 91 were the same distance. I thought about a spacer but that starts to smell of a jury-rig and then got to thinking about something more permanent and adjustable.

Do the arms look the same? Do the counterweights look the same? It all sounds like your measurements might be optimistic because this reeks of wrong clutch arm/cable combo. If the measurement is the same, its the same cable and same pedal, you are pretty much stuck with magically something else changed, or your adjuster is not adjusting no matter how much you try.

[daver]

I would double check the clutch arm again. The orientation of the flat spot in the splined ring welded into the arm is different depending on the vehicle the trans came out of. I know at least the AA body stuff is different from J, G, P etc..

[thx138]

These are both g-body 568's but I will double check the distance between the face that the cable abuts to and the arm. I checked the plastic white adjuster and it is missing a bunch of 'teeth', so ordered a new one. I had just assumed that since a worn 4 puck was coming out and that a new one was going in that there should not have been much difference. If anything I expected the clutch to engage earlier due to the thicker clutch and pressure plate. I did not measure the thickness of what came out vs what was going in. It was an old RR 4 puck coming out and a TU 4 puck purple going in.

[daver]

It's not a distance from cable to pivot-point issue.. check out the pictures in this thread, might help explain the differences in some of the arms - http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...rences-by-year

[thx138]

Finally got the cable all figured out. The plastic piece 'P' shaped on the top of the pedal was missing teeth and a bushing was wore through. That all works now. Take the car out for a drive, 1st is fine, shift to 2nd is fine, shift to third - some noise, go to shift to 4th and lots of 'grinding' but shifts to 5th fine. Downshifting from 4th to 3rd, more grinding. Does this sound like a syncro issue? I took a flyer on this 568 and it is not looking good. Are the internal pieces still available. Are the syncros the same as in the 523 (I have one of those laying around).

(I cheaped out and should have put in a rebuilt - now I will end up doing it twice)

Thanks