well first try and get MS to command 10 and have the light see 10, even if you have to set it to 9* fixed. That should be a good starting point
well first try and get MS to command 10 and have the light see 10, even if you have to set it to 9* fixed. That should be a good starting point
I understand what you are saying with fixed at "0" and running "1".
With the 12* part...do you mean that you fixed the timing at 12 and it actually showed 13 with the timing light (meaning 1* advanced) when cranking, or that it brought the timing back to 1* while cranking with the timing light?
Both of those were fixed electronic timing per MS. Seems like it was adding 1 degree to whatever I "set" and I don't know what accounts for that.
I don't even know if the timing light changed what it said when I changed the set timing. I was in a rush and fooling around that night before dinner. Have to get back out there bit car time is short.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
I thought the light was showing 18*..... when MS was set to 0 but the log showed 1. im lost. I dont even know how you would go about seeing 18* with just the light lol.
I was paying more attention to the rapidity of flashing during those starting tests then where the timing light was hitting when I changed fixed timing tables.
In other news, reflashed my corrupted firmware to 3.2.5 and she starts up and runs/revs. Timing must be off still because it wanted to backfire at first.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
Good news there. best bet there is to use the trigger offset adjustment and fixed timing settings to get to 0* and let your timing table do the rest. just my $.02
yeah i dont like the idea of adding your base timing to the entire table, rather I would just like to set the each value and know that that is what the timing will be.
I was never able to get a trigger angle early enough with the stock distributor to get my desired max of 45 total timing. That's the main reason I dumped the distributor and went wasted spark with a home made crank sensor.
Good to see that a firmware flash fixed your issue.
Also, you're better off to think of total timing with MS and for get the base timing + additional timing bs. MS will display the total timing based off you setting the trigger angle (physical trigger angle) to a certain number of crank degrees btdc and then then tell Ms what that number is in the trigger angle field. Then fine tune it with a timing light while slightly turning your distributor. Ideal trigger angle is 60-90 degrees before tdc. I could never get this so I said piss on it and deleted the distributor,