I adjusted the belt with the correct tension, 110 lbs, turned the cranke 2 times & now the tension is higher, 150, is this normal?
I adjusted the belt with the correct tension, 110 lbs, turned the cranke 2 times & now the tension is higher, 150, is this normal?
tension between the cam and crank on the front of the motor I would say has to go up due to the drag from the valve train. I bet the tension on the back of the timing belt toward the back of the motor is less than 110 now.
Got it done.
Found one cam was a tooth off, ended up with 105 lbs on a new belt.
Correct,its the valvesprings messing with your reading. Thats why I like to "pull the cams together" with some 19mm wrenches it get the belt slack where the gauge reads. Thats the best way to get a real reading with the rocker shafts still torqued...
I had loosened the rockers when I did this.
Car is running great.
Not bad for my 1st TIII t-belt swap.
This TIII has run better & longer than my 1st TIII back in 04!
anyone have the tool number and brand for the tension gauge for the timing belt? can't find where i put mine...
Turbo Joe
----------------------- 87 CSX #175 TIII powered, MegaSquirt3 Pro Ultimate, GTX3076R, Turbo Joe header, Lengel intake, Menegon ported head, the list goes on
Otc 6673
thanks for the reply 135sohc but that model is rated up to 180 INCH pounds..IIRC we need footpounds right? 70 for used 95ish for new?
Turbo Joe
----------------------- 87 CSX #175 TIII powered, MegaSquirt3 Pro Ultimate, GTX3076R, Turbo Joe header, Lengel intake, Menegon ported head, the list goes on
oops... Miller 4188/kent moore J29771-a are the foot pound versions of that tensioner. Could have sworn OTC sold their own branded version as well but I guess not. That was the first one that came to mind.
Should the engine be warmed up when your setting the timing? Ive done the rocker loosening method and the sprocket tightening method and the belt goes off the scale(burroughs) after the car warms up. Once it cools down its back to the old tension.