I'm installing a new +4mm head with everything new but lifters, fallowers & roller cam. Also a new super 60 turbo is going on. Short block is all stock but rebuilt with about 60,000 miles +/- on it. I want to know if I should run a break in oil or normal synthetic oil with a break in additive or just normal synthetic oil?
Also what would be a recommended oil weight to run with this new setup?
Thanks Mahlon.
If I'm reading this correctly your shortblock has 60,000 miles on a rebuild, but your top end is brand new?
In that case, I would run whatever oil you usually run. It couldn't hurt to dump some oil over the cam lobes and bearing surfaces before you start it up, and maybe crank it over until you build a little oil pressure before actually starting. I don't think there is any need to run a special break-in oil for our top ends.
Yes Only thing that is being replaced is head & turbo. Everything else is staying the same.
would it help to put a high zinc additive in with oil to help new components?
Did the two 5/8" oil galley plugs get removed when the cylinder head had it's work done? The reason I ask is I have seen and heard of so many turbo failures after bolting on a refurbished head. For some reason machine shops think this is unimportant or don't want to distrub them because they may leak. Do yourself a favor and remove them and run a brush through galley. It could save your new S-60 or more.
Todd
Not really. There isn't anything that has to "wear in" like a v8 cam with solid lifters or anything, which is what I think you are thinking.Originally Posted by Punish'nRice
When I put my top end together I put a little STP oil treatment on the cam bearing surfaces, lobes, rocker rollers, soaked the lifters in oil for a while. Then I spun the oil pump via the intermediate shaft with my screw gun for a while to make sure oil was getting where it needed to go (the engine was on a stand at the time), but you can do the same thing by cranking the engine over without starting until you read oil pressure. You can leave the valve cover off if you like so you can see the oil come to the top of the head. Either unplug the coil wire or jump power straight to the starter solenoid via the starter relay. Just don't crank it forever. You wouldn't want to overheat and kill your starter motor.
Once you're satisfied that you've got oil pressure and your lifters are pumped up, put the valve cover back on and you're done.
Cool thanks for the replies, much appreciated.
How do I remove them?
Should I use a stiff bristle brush for knocking off burrs or on softer side for cleaning chips out?
Small punch hitting them near edge knocking them sideways, just like how you remove core plugs (frost plugs). Use nylon (plastic) bristle brush. Flush brake cleaner through galley in head if it isn't already bolted down. You can also use compressed air. Obviously replace plugs using sealant.
Todd
Roller cams don't require a break in, turbo's also don't need a break in, fill with your favourite brand of oil, I prefer a synthetic 5w40, and go have some fun, watching your gauges of course,
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Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
The Zinc helps with slider type cams, rollers won't care and other than the slider cam, there isn't really anything in the engine that would benefit from it, though it wouldn't hurt either... well, the cats don't like it much, but unless you're burning a noticeable amount of oil, I doubt it would be a problem.
Break in is something you'd want to do if the bottom end was fresh. There are various methods of doing it, most involve varying short periods of high(ish) load and light load in an effort to seat the rings. Something like a V-8 will also often have a non-roller cam, which would require moly lube to keep from wiping out the cam while the cam and lifters "bed in", but the lube also plugs oil filters... Thankfully we don't have to deal with that!
Mike
PS If there are chips or glass beads, or really anything that's not oil in the galley, you'll want to thoroughly clean that sh!t out, especially the glass beads, that's awful close to the prescription used to kill engines during the "cash for clunkers" program... and it was/is highly effective at destroying engines!
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BUT THEY DO NEED TO BE PRIMED! i used the screw gun technique on my block until i saw a good amount of oil coming from the drain of the turbo, and i mean a GOOD amount of oil, especially if its new...turbo's also don't need a break in
Thanks everyone for the advice.
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