atp swingvalve

[wowzer]

want an atp swingvalve For Larger 5 Bolt Chrysler Style bolt pattern

[4 l-bodies]

Aren't they still available new?

[wowzer]

yep - just checking for a used one first never know!

[4 l-bodies]

I guess one good thing about buying used is the trimming that you normally need to do has more than likely been done on something that has been mounted already. I had a good hour of tweaking on the three that I've bought.
Todd

[iTurbo]

Yup I've noticed that the need a little tweaking to be perfect too.

I have one wowzer...it is brand new and untouched. I am so far gone into 16v stuff I'm not sure if I'll ever actually use it... I'm not sure when I'll be passing through Spearfish again though.

[wheming]

I guess one good thing about buying used is the trimming that you normally need to do has more than likely been done on something that has been mounted already. I had a good hour of tweaking on the three that I've bought.
Todd

What tweaking are you speaking of?
You mean not being able to get a socket on the bolts?
Or something else?

[iTurbo]

In my limited experience with this part, the bolts went in just fine. It was the area where the turbine discharges into the ATP swingvalve that needed slight porting. Specifically near the bottom edge. I'm sure Todd has more experience with this tho...

[wowzer]

jeremy - pm me a price on the swing valve if you do want to sell it. i'm in no hurry. i've got to drop the motor this spring/summer and fix a rod knock. just collecting a few parts for later. actually considering a different turbo also to replace the t2 garrett as well as possibly moving to an external wastegate setup. i may head out to yellowstone/old faithful in a couple months so i could always meet and pick it up. lmk

[4 l-bodies]

What tweaking are you speaking of?
You mean not being able to get a socket on the bolts?
Or something else?

Yeah Wayne pretty much, As with most castings, there is a bit of clean up work you could do to make it fit and flow better. Some of the bolts or nuts won't fit flush on the swingvalve unless you work it a little bit. I want to be able to get box end wrench or socket on these and not just a open end wrench. I attach mine with studs and jet nuts so I don't have to deal with broken bolts in exhaust housing in the future.
Todd

[wheming]

I have another ATP swingvalve right here, and looking at it there is an edge on the interior at the bottom that I probably will knock down with the dremel. I've had this one coated with that thermal barrier coating that TU provides. So I won't be grinding anything on the outside.

When I installed the one on Slug, I didn't think to do anything to it. I had just bought it from ATP and the casting looked slightly different than this coated one. I just used SS bolts with neversieze and had to buy a crows foot wrench since I had already mounted the turbo to the header.
Might just use SS allen head bolts on Mini's when I install.

[moparzrule]

The only reason I would see using an ATP unit would be for the Ford style T3 housing. In my experience it was a direct bolt on, but I had the older welded unit. Didn't need trimmed, even on a stage 3 wheel. I hear they are cast now, which always comes with it's flaws and requires tweaking.

For a chrysler housing, why not just use the TU 3'' swingvalve??? Direct bolt on, and no fabrication of a downpipe needed. So much less headache.

[wheming]

I have one of those too.
I was unsure which I was going to use and I was working on more than one car anyway.
But no doubt, the ATP is less restrictive, but more work.
TU's is a great practically bolt on upgrade.

[Chris W]

To the OP, I apologize in advance for the thread Hijack...

Here's the scoop from our perspective.....

In an effort to avoid discontinuing the TU swingvalve we re-designed it in 2009 to allow it to be used on both a Chrysler (TI/TII) and Ford (TIII) style turbine housings. Those changes did not come without challenges for us. When incorporating dual bolt patterns in the new design the mounting attachment hardware comes very close to the SV as seen in the following post:

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...l=1#post954943

This issue is really a non-issue as long as you follow our directions in the attached thread. For TIII applications the downpipe angle needs to change slightly. Other then the information noted there should be no other modifications or massaging required on our latest design of swingvalves.

Please keep in mind that when we originally designed our TU swingvalve in 2003 it was intended as a bolt on performance upgrade replacement for the existing factory parts available at the time. In the last 10 years other options have hit the market. While the initial price of the ATP version may look inviting the required associated hardware and labor (O2 bung purchase/welding, flex pipe purchase/welding, downpipe purchase/fabrication/welding, change P/S model, etc.) does add up quickly. Potential buyers should consider the final cost and labor involved once everything is installed and before making their decision.

In regards to the true performance differences between the TU SV and the ATP unit we really don't have an answer. Honestly, until someone makes the investment to complete a true back to back dyno test (as TU did comparing the factory 2.5" version), "seat of the pants" or "theory" is not an accurate gauge in performance results that should be quoted here for all applications. ATP should be doing this since it is their product but their investment in the Turbo-Mopar community is limited.

A few of the physical benefits of the TU SV over ATP are:

1) Larger Wastegate Puck diameter allowing for better boost creep control.
2) TU Bolt-On Matching downpipe. One part. No welding, no flex pipe and no fabrication needed.
3) O2 Sensor bung already incorporated in TU SV.
4) Large area on SV where multiple probes can also be installed.
5) Factory appearance for States where modifications are not allowed.
6) Fits BOTH Chrysler TI/TII and Ford style TIII turbine housing applications.
7) TU SV housing was actually designed to be opened up to 3.25" or greater. Earlier models were actually machined larger then 3".

In regard to 7), we knew the day would come that other SV options would be available so we designed the original housings extra thick but still advertised 3" to maintain this marketing advantage should someone come out with a 3" version also. As already mentioned, the Law of Diminishing returns provides less performance advantages in most applications the larger you go over 3".

At TU, we feel the best part of all about our Swingvalves is that the profit from sales goes right back into the Turbo-Mopar community via new products.

Todd- While the exhaust does change 90 degrees the angle in the back of the SV housing is still angled to direct air downward, not strike a flat wall and impede flow. Our TU SVs actually have an even greater angle then the factory versions to enhance flow characteristics over Garrett's design.

Chris-TU

[thedon809]

This threads a year old. I'm still running your swingvalve though BTW works great.

[moparzrule]

This threads a year old.

Indeed.

[cordes]

Nothing worse than people bumping old threads!

[GLHS60]

I like it when old threads get bumped, gives me an idea about what has changed and what hasn't.

Thanks
Randy

[cordes]

I like it when old threads get bumped, gives me an idea about what has changed and what hasn't.

Thanks
Randy

I really like them because it keeps all of the pertinent info in one thread and you don't have to search through 50 of them to find the info you need.

[black86glhs]

OK, I deleted most of the arguments and some of the trolling posts. This is a wanted section, not a place to piss and moan at each other. Take it to the lounge, the political section, or the exhaust section if you want to do that.
DO not post back in here bad mouthing anyone. It looks bad.