Modifying a TurboXS RFL to not be so RFL?

[iangoround]

I was a younger, louder man when I a RFL blowoff valve for my car. Now that I'm a slightly older, quieter man I'm wondering if anyone has ever taken a RFL and chopped off the "RF"?

It would probably be easier to just sell or trade this for something else, but since I all ready have it I figured I would ask first.

[zin]

Route it back into the intake tract, or build a muffler for it (or both)... Not venting to atmosphere makes the biggest difference, but it won't "make a racehorse out of a mule"... Just a "fast mule".

Mike

[tryingbe]

Sell it and buy something else

[roachjuice]

Too loud you're too old!!! I'm use to the rfl. I love it.

[Khajjathefang]

Shoulda bought a type-H :P best compromise IMHO

[tryingbe]

I had type H, I didn't like it one bit.

[zin]

Question for everyone, since everyone has experience with these ....

Anyone have one NOT leak? Mine always sounded like Popeye at light throttle, annoys me to think it's fluttering like that. I'm planning on replacing it with a modified Talon unit, hopefully it'll be big enough.

I'm going for stealth these days!

Mike

[iTurbo]

I've used several TXS RFL bovs. To my knowledge they didn't leak, but I never went so far as to do a pressure test. Before these I was using stock Talon BOVs (1g DSM) and they had the annoying tendency to be slightly open at cruise and light part throttle that they would whistle almost constantly. It was really high pitched which almost made the car sound like it had a brake problem. Good BOV other than that though.

[shackwrrr]

Get the screw on recirculation adapter but leave it open. Pretty quiet then. You can try removing the bell, that makes it a little bit quieter.

[supercrackerbox]

Mine has just a straight tube on it rather than the bell that my previous one had. That would make it very easy to recirculate back into the airbox.

I don't believe mine leaks, but it used to. More accurately, it was binding and getting stuck open. I took it apart and found that the cylinder on the spring end of the brass piston was badly scored, along with the cylinder walls on the main body. I sanded it all down and polished it, and lubed it with a dry silicone spray, and it's been flawless ever since.

[cordes]

A couple bucks in quarters and mine doesn't leak now. It won't release pressure under 2-3PSI though.

[iangoround]

Aside from being RFL, it doesn't seal very well and I'm sure it leaks. At idle I can put my hand up against the bell and it will form a vacuum around my palm.

If I can't just modify it to recirculate, I'll sell it and get something else. Any suggestions for a BOV that won't leak at 20psi and up?

[boost geek]

grab one off avolvo ayt the jy they are double flanged, soyou can mount them back wards,the more pressure,the better they seal, as the pistongetsforced tighter onto the seat

[wheming]

I run stock 1G talon bov's, Gus used them on Mini and Slug, and I have on my Spirit.
All run well over 20 psi (25-28).

The springs aren't crushed but they are modified to NOT pressurise under the diaphragm.
Gus has the how-to on one of his tech pages i believe. They work very well and you could get a handful of them for the price of one of those loud fancy ones.

[OmniLuvr]

im running 1g too, 22 psi right now, and if you need more flow, run two ;-)

[roachjuice]

I run a turbo xs rfl. No leaks to 30 psi. You guys that are having leak issues, are you putting enough springs in it to prevent it from leaking? I've noticed the dsm 1g bov comes open at idle and light throttle. My RFL stays shut. It only compressor surges at like 2psi. Usually if I'm hitting boost it's above that lol. I'll usually pop the throttle a little bit before shifting to get that RFL sound.

[zin]

That's what frustrates me with the RFL, if I shim it to not leak, it surges... These aren't complicated devices, there is no good reason one can't seal and still activate quick/well enough to not surge/leak... shouldn't have to be a choice...

The modified 1g seems like the way to go, more boost seals harder, but a bit of vacuum and it should crack easy enough... And if it doesn't?... I'm building my own!

Mike

[iTurbo]

We should all petition ATP Turbo to remake their 'RS' BOV. You can configure that thing for any situation, like an RFL (with big or small horns or recirc attachments and even an 'anti-stall' attachment for MAF cars) and also mount it like a HKS so it seals even better with boost. I have a couple of the ATP RS BOVs and they are hands down the best BOV I've ever used.

....although I'm still really happy with the TurboXS RFL... No surge that I've ever noticed, and I've never had to shim the spring with washers or quarters or anything. A squirt of WD-40 in the discharge horn once in a while really helps the piston move freely.

[roachjuice]

I've only had a little trouble with it sticking with an eBay rfl. Never had a problem with a real one. The rfl just works for me. I like it. It works. It holds boost well. The apexi I had leaked at 25 psi. I had my boost set there and put my rfl on. It immediately went to 30+psi lol. Oops.

[tkelly27]

A DSM, EVO, or Volvo valve will work well. Any OEM metal bov will normally work really well. Unfortunately boost breaks plastic valves.