Subframe 1987 J body LeBaron

[LeBaronMike]

Hey all, anyone know anything about subframes? So I have a major issue with the steering on my1987 Lebaron Convertible. Basically I have my steering wheel turned 90 degrees in order for me to drive straight. My driver side wheel is angled a bit to the left and a bit inward. Its bad, bad, bad. Took it to Kal Tire for new tires and an alignment, they could not do the alignment because they said the subframe is basically floating. Not connected properly, the bolts are stripped for the steering rack. They said the subframe needs to be replaced but the only way I can do that is pull one off at the junk yard.
So, is there any way I can just beef up my current subframe? I read about installing brackets to make it stronger? I dont know anything about this part of the car. Anyone have pictures on what exactly the subframe is? How big of a job is this? Is there any alternatives to fixing this major issue?

[Gearhead24-7]

It sounds like you're going to have to replace your K frame. The nuts for the bolts that hold the steering rack are welded on the inside. You'll have to remove the 4 nuts that hold the K frame to the body, the power steering lines, and seperate the ball joints and tie rod ends from the knuckles. Any local junk yard should have a K frame that will work. If it doesn't come with the sway bar you'll have to swap that as well.

[zin]

I agree, buy another, but get one with the dual pivot arms (yeah, you'll need those too!), as these work much better and will help the handling as well... If you can pick your own, and don't mind crawling under a few cars, you can look for one with a thicker anti-roll bar.

What I'll call the third generation (91+) will have cast arms instead of stamped, and, in addition to being stronger, add some caster to the alignment, which also helps our cars handle better. The one potential problem with these though is that the extra caster comes from shifting the wheel forward, which, depending on the wheel/tire combo, could make things a bit tight or in the case of a Shelby Charger, rub the fender extensions.

Anyway, that's my $.02 worth, best of luck!

Mike

[Reaper1]

Also, if you get the 91+ with the control arms, you will NEED to get the sway bar brackets from the arms as they are different than the older ones.

If you go the route of replacing the entire set-up, replace the bushings as well! Get a hold of Johnny at Poly Bushings. He's a vendor here and makes top quality products that are equal to, and in most cases better than what you can get at a parts store.

[LeBaronMike]

Thanks for the info guys but I fixed the issue. I learned not to trust a kal tire mechanic before I go under and look myself. Turns out that the 4 nuts inside the frame were welded on, must have broken off over time. So I stuck a screw driver inside of that frame and held the nuts in place to tighten up the rack bolts. Now my wheel is dead center and have no issues steering.
As for the choked wheel I just loosened the strut bolts and pushed the wheel inward. That's all it took.

[zin]

No wonder how a $69.95 alignment turns into a $1500.00 repair bill!

Moral of the story: It pays to know how stuff works!

As an aside, the suggested "fix" would still be an upgrade...

Mike