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Thread: 3.8L Dodge Dynasty

  1. #1
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    3.8L Dodge Dynasty

    Back when i was 17 i got my hands on a pristine 1993 3.3L/604 Dodge Dynasty with 64,195 miles on it. I loved the hell out of it and put 30k hard miles on it in the first year, which involved a lot of street racing and a fair amount of autocross. As years went by i began buying more and more different vehicles (a lot of k-cars, ive owned most types) and modding them out, with the odd result that i never got a lot of the stuff i wanted to do to my dynasty done even though i liked it more than many of the other cars i spent my time on. It always ran and was drivable with no real issues and working AC and i would DD it for a few months here and there, but ultimately it picked up more damage than upgrades along the way and by several years ago it was only a pale shadow of its former condition and had unintentionally gone down to beater status. But, i never did get rid of it or give up on my ideas for what to do with it, so when i came across a near-clone of it sitting behind the shop of a former employer, i worked it into a trade deal (i traded my 78 Volvo 242 for this new dynasty, an 85 CRX HF, and a modded 98 Eclipse GS) and decided to swap all the good stuff from the old car to the new car and start over.

    Here's a pic of the old 3.3 car, the new 3.3 car, and a 3.0 dynasty i had at the time that i swapped a 5spd into (world's only 5spd dynasty, one good clutch short of a high 14 car and sold to a member of this forum, http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ht=543+dynasty ).

    This new dynasty, a 1990 3.3L, was a little lower optioned and not in as good of shape as my 1993 had originally been, it was a damn sight better than the 93 was now, and it was the same color inside and out (beige and beige!!), which i really liked. It had a running 3.3 and a non-moving transmission (the shop said it was bad, i never verified beyond that it wouldnt move). Shortly after, i bought a 94 Grand caravan with a 3.8/604 for ~$300 and used it as a moving van for a couple weeks before taking it apart and scrapping the body (although parts from it ended up on at least 3 vehicles in my group of local fwd dodge buddies). Slowly, over the course of december to march, i swapped the 3.8/604 into the 1990 car at work before bringing it home and swapping the rest of the stuff from the old car.

    I had a lot of suspension and brake stuff from the old car i wanted to put on the new car.


    I got all that stuff swapped. The 1990 car now has:

    11" front vented discs on 91-up front spindles
    11" rear vented discs, modified to fit Dynasty axle (which has a different 4-hole pattern)
    Welded/boxed rear axle
    Reinforced/boxed track bar
    89 Stamped arm k-frame
    1 1/4" front swaybar
    67 Caprice coupe rear springs
    Koni rear shocks
    Fast-ratio steering rack from 89 daytona
    2g neon front struts with factory NSRT4 springs

    That got me the drop i wanted, which was one of my favorite things about the old car. I got the front of the new car a smidge lower in the front by going from srt4 struts to regular 2g neon struts and leaving out the spring isolators.


    The back, i went from cut+spacered moog progressive cargo coils to cut 67 Caprice rear springs to get a higher spring rate. The cargo coils were too soft in the progressive part of the spring.

    Left is the uncut Caprice spring, center is the stock Dynasty spring, and right is the cut+spacered cargo coils that came out of the old car. The caprice springs ended up being SLIGHTLY shorter than those cargo coils. I did not reuse the spacers and in fact in my caution i left the back a LITTLE higher than i actually wanted it. Im going to do my sub+amps install in the trunk before adjusting the rear ride height any further.

    I had to roll all four fender lips and modify all 4 fender lip trims to be able to fit the 245/40r17s on 17x8 +35s at this ride height.

    I rented a fender roller from a local guy to do the fenders. It's a good thing i have fender trim to cover up the fender lips because they are pretty obviously tweaked without the trim on them.


    Here's how the car looks from the front. The front ride height is perfect for me. I do plan to modify some of the bracing under the front bumper cover to make it resemble the old car, which had more of a curved look to the bottom of the bumper cover that ended up looking pretty cool. I may replace that factory air dam with a wider/lower one as well.

    I also swapped over the stereo from the old car which consisted of a jvc mp3 headunit that i forget the model of, 5 1/4" MB Quart coax in the front doors, and MB Quart 6.5" components in the back (made mdf plates to mount 6.5s in 6x9 holes, and mounted tweeters above rear seatbelts on c-pillar trim). I also have 2 12" 4ohm Infinity Kappa Perfects that i need to build a new spare tire well box for, a 75x4 rms Eclipse amp for the speakers, and a Total Mobile Audio bridgable 2ch for the subs that i forget the specs of. Ill get some pics of the tweeters, sub+amps install and all that sometime soon. The rest of the speakers and head unit are nothing to look at.

    I also have the 3" exhaust system from the old car to install on the new one, but i want to re-do the downpipe and exhaust tip so i'll be taking that to an exhaust shop. It's a 3" mandrel bent system from FWDP that came off a VNT shadow and was modded to fit the dynasty, with a 3" high flow cat and 3" straight-through dynomax or magnaflow muffler. Ill edit that when i remember which one it is.

    I also put the hitch from the old car onto the new one. The old one was an ACCOMPLISHED tow vehicle, culminating with taking 3 people, my Dodge Aries, and all of our race-related gear from Texas to Florida and back for the GRM $2009 Challenge. The whole shebang weighed about 8000lbs and it got 17mpg doing it. Today i inaugurated my hitch's second life by using the new dynasty to tow the old dynasty to the scrappers.

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  2. #2
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: 3.8L Dodge Dynasty

    So the whole time i had the old car i never did much of anything to improve the power beyond just putting an intake and eventually an exhaust on it. The intake is a very noticeable gain. I dont remember feeling anything from the exhaust but it was always intended to benefit me 'down the road'. I say that because i always knew i wanted to put a 3.8L in the car and eventually i decided to turbo it too.

    So over the years i collected some parts for that 'someday' project.
    I have a fairly large T4-frame turbo i plan to use on the 3.8L. The compressor side is something slightly larger than a t04e 60 trim. It has a 60-62mm inducer. I haven't had the compressor housing off to measure it accurately. The turbine side is a T4 P-trim turbine wheel in a .96 a/r T4 housing. When i first got into turbo cars i used to think the typical beginner's thing which is that you want a small turbo that is 'good enough' for what you want to do and spools quickly, and i used to think that 'big turbos' were only for really high-hp builds or racecars. However, i've since gradually learned that when you're putting a turbo on an engine that already HAS a lot of low rpm torque, you dont really want to go overkill with low rpm spoolup and make the car harder to drive/race than it needs to be, and typically what people think of as 'large' turbines tend to spool better than you would actually think. Also, the lower drive pressure to hit X boost goal tends to pay dividends in less pumping losses and 'charge contamination' via reversion so that a big turbine turbo will typically make noticeably more power than a small turbo even at low boost pressures. I dont really consider this turbo to be big for this motor at all. In fact, it may still spool earlier than i want it to.

    I also have an AEM F/IC 6 for this car, which is a piggyback controller that actually has a lot of functionality beyond just adding injector pulsewidth. It can add or subtract pulsewidth, so it can be used to 'scale' for larger injectors. It has onboard injector drivers so if you wanted to leave the factory injectors alone you could actually run a second set off the FIC. It has an onboard 3-bar map sensor, so you dont have to modify the factory MAP hardware or buy an extra sensor for the FIC. It has 0-5V circuit remappers so you can alter how the factory ECU sees the 5v sensor signals. The most common use of that for a turbo setup is to 'clamp' the maximum output of the MAP sensor so that the computer doesnt start pulling timing and throwing codes on its own. It also has some programmable output that can be used in simple ways like an rpm switch, or more complicated ways if you try harder. The FIC can retard ignition timing to compensate for boost. It also has an onboard datalogger which is nice since the FIC does pretty much everything so you dont have to 'translate' useful info from a separate logger into your actual engine controls because they are one and the same. One of the coolest things about the FIC is it allows you to 'offset' the o2 sensor signals to trick the computer into thinking things are normal that really arent. This is similar to an adjustable narrowband output on a wideband 02, but has the benefit of all being handled by this one main unit and probably having more adjustability through the range of response vs just moving the 'switching point' and taking everything else along with it. So the FIC is a legitimate badass of a piggyback and i cant wait to use it, especially after sitting on it for several years.


    Based on the experiences of people whose opinions i trust, i think im going with a Zeitronix zt-3 wideband.



    Also, TM member Acannell is making these cool dual thermocouple gauge setups, and i bought one. Since ill be doing a crossover-mount turbo and running an external wastegate off the stock rear mani discharge flange, i was thinking it might be a good idea to compare front and rear EGTs since the rear mani setup might become sketchy at some point. If i decide i dont need to monitor that, i can repurpose one of the thermocouples to measure intake air temperature. I have no idea where im going to put this gauge but i kept my A-pillar trim from the old car so i could blend in a gauge pod if thats where i have to put it. The dynasty dash doesnt give you any good options.

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  3. #3
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: 3.8L Dodge Dynasty

    Pic dump from the 93 car.























    12 years with that car. New one will be better, though!

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  4. #4
    turbo addict blk86trbo's Avatar
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    Re: 3.8L Dodge Dynasty

    That's some really neat stuff there, sure looks like a bunch of cool memories. Thanks for sharing pics too!
    [FONT="Arial Black"]Paul[/FONT] [B][SIZE="1"]US ARMY INFANTRY VETERAN[/B] 1995 Dodge Stealth R/T White DOHC 5 speed 1994 Dodge Stealth R/T Red DOHC 5 speed 1992 Dodge Daytona IROC, Blue TI 5 speed (2) 1992 Dodge Daytona IROC, Red TI auto 1991 Dodge Spirit R/T, Red (project) 1989 Shelby CSX-VNT #382 1989 Dodge Shadow ES, White TI auto 1987 Daytona Shelby Z, White TII 1987 Chrysler T&C wagon, Tan TII auto 1985 Dodge Lancer ES, Bronze TI auto 1982 Wife, White[/SIZE] [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  5. #5
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    Re: 3.8L Dodge Dynasty

    I never really liked big wheels, but man that thing looks so right with those shoes.
    MinivanRider

  6. #6
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: 3.8L Dodge Dynasty

    So when i first got my old 3.3 car i didnt know anything about the motor other than it was bigger than the 3.0 in other dynasties, so.. thats good. My cousin had that red 3.0 dynasty at the same time that i had my 3.3, and i liked that motor too. As years went by of me being on and watching the forums (i used to be the #2 overall poster in the Allpar forums before TM existed) i saw the slow progression of the 3.0 enthusiasts and almost no action with 3.3/3.8s. I always suspected that the 3.3 had some advantages that were being ignored mostly because it only came in grandma cars and minivans with automatics. I knew it was faster than that 3.0 dynasty, even after i put a bigger throttle body and modified the plenum on the other one. So i started doing a little research here and there and thinking about what i could do to it. The most obvious thing was to put in a 3.8 since it was a direct bolt in and noone had ever done it before (back then, anyway). Then i figured out (i may have been the very first to figure this out) that the 2.7L shared a bellhousing with the 3.5L which shared a bellhousing with the 3.3L and the 2.7 came with a 5spd, so you must be able to bolt a 2.7 5spd to a 3.3/3.8! I got close to being the first one to do it (a parts deal fell through, and after other people figured out it was possible it didnt seem as 'cool' to do it just for uniqueness), but gradually lost interest as i learned more about the 604 trans and the things you could cheaply do to it (gearing, converter, autostick). So, i never did ANY of that. The biggest HP mod i ever did to the old motor was a cone filter. I never had to take it apart since it never broke, so i never even had a convenient excuse to upgrade anything with a better part because it had to be replaced anyway..

    With the new car i said "im not even going to get it driveable unless its on a 3.8 swap", so i didnt touch it for probably a year until i found a cheap 3.8 donor. The first time i actually 'drove it' (the old trans would go 2mph if you put fluid in it and floored it) was with the 3.8 swap. Since i already have a lot of the go-fast stuff this time around, i should be able to actually get something done on this one. After all, it already has a 3.8 swap, and i already have a full exhaust, a piggyback, a big turbo, a bunch of injectors to choose from, bov's, piping, etc. I also have a transfer gear and ring and pinion set to gear down the transmission as well, and a 'high stall' torque converter (stock dodge neon 3spd converter) is only $100 or so..

    So obviously my goal is the turbo install, but i always wanted to see a 3.3/3.8 make some decent n/a power and id like to try that first. A lot of info has gradually come out since TD started a 3.3/3.8 section about headflow, different head and manifolds over the years, crank/rod/piston mashups with GM parts, etc. I always suspected the 3.3/3.8 was secretly a good performance motor bolted to a minivan, and i think by now that's mostly proven for people who can look at the parts and know what they're looking at and dont have to work backwards from a timeslip. The old heads like what's on this dynasty were flowed to 190+cfm on the intake port @.500, when a 3.0 head on the same bench with the same operator was only touching 150. Now, id be happy enough with 190 but i KNOW the 3.0 12v head flows closer to 180 bone stock, so i think low 200s is a more realistic number for the 3.3 head. It's been said by a couple people who are into these motors now that the cam and upper intake are the main things holding back a stock motor. I dont even full buy into that because the upper intake, aside from having long runners, actually looks pretty good inside. It's got a way bigger plenum than a lot of v6 motors that seem to do better. At this point i think the 2 biggest problem areas on the 3.3/3.8 are the cam and the throttle body (and throttle body neck). Sure, the 3.3 throttle body neck is an upgrade for a 1pc 2.2L intake, but i really think this motor needs a 65+mm TB to see anywhere near the potential of the rest of the top end, even on an otherwise stock intake manifold. So, i think that's the first 'custom' mod id like to attempt. Ondonti was telling me about a case of a mitsu 3.0 being dyno'd with just a huge TB and manifold mods to make that possible, and exhaust gaining 40whp on an otherwise stock motor. I doubt a 3.8 would gain that much but looking at the rest of the top end i wouldnt be surprised to see 20+hp from a bigger TB on the stock plenum. I do think that putting a cam on top of that could push a mostly stock 3.8 into the ~230-250 hp range if you can get the SBEC modded to allow the necessary rpm. Im not sure i can put a cam in my motor without taking it out, but id like to try a cam as i have the means to tune for it and i havent seen anyone swap anything other than later model stock cams.

    Ive got a spare top end bolted together to mock up my turbo setup on in the mean time. Im planning to run a flipped/reversed 3.3 Intrepid plenum with a modified throttle body elbow. That will allow me to place the turbo near the end of the rear valve cover, where the stock plenum and throttle body currently sit. The turbo will be a 'crossover mount' style (in 3.0 terms), with a wastegate coming off the rear manifold downpipe connection.

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  7. #7
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: 3.8L Dodge Dynasty

    So i was thinking about trying the TCM from my 1993 car in my 90 because this TCM seems to want to downshift with very little throttle and i want to load it up a little more.

    I was looking at my TCM wiring diagrams and noticed the TPS signal has a dedicated line (i.e. not on the CCD bus), so it got me to thinking: I could probably use one of the 0-5v remappers of the FIC to alter the kickdown/upshift characteristics of the TCM! That would be neato. If mine had a frequency-based MAF remapper (i think the FIC-8 does, mine is a 6), i might even be able to use that to cap the RPM signal going into the TCM to get the TCM to let me go past the WOT upshift rpm! These old 3.3 cars upshift at 5500, and even if i raise the rev limiter in the SBEC it still wont let me shift any higher without messing with the TCM.

    Ultimately i want to swap the Autostick TCM from my old autostick-converted 1997 3.5L intrepid into this dynasty. That will let me shift higher than 5500, and give me a manual-shift mode. I have the TCM diagrams for the 97 car but not the 90, yet. I already noticed some stuff that changed over the years comparing to the old 3.0 TCM diagrams i have.

    I think if i do it and get it to work, it'll be the first time anyone has swapped a TCM across transmission types.. The intrepid has a 606, and dynasty has a 604. Electrically they are pretty much the same, so i think it could work!

    Also, i had some cheapy blaupunkt 3.5" speakers in the dash of my old dynasty, but i didnt swap them into the new one because the treble was too sharp from them. While i was digging through boxes looking for my AEM FIC (found it!) today i also found a pair of older infinity reference 3.5s with silk dome tweeters so i will try those out!

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  8. #8
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: 3.8L Dodge Dynasty

    So i DO want the back to be a little lower, but i also have a hitch on this thing and will tow with it some, so i have to account for some possible tongue weight. As it is, at ride height i only have about 1" of travel left in the back before hitting the rear bumpstop. It rides just fine like that, i actually cant even tell when/if it's hitting it. But, i dont want a rear passenger + a little tongue weight to have me on the bumpstop so hard that it's dangerous to take a bump during a turn.

    So im planning to TRY and find one of these setups: http://www.carid.com/images/air-lift...structions.pdf

    I'll have to cut and shorten the bumpstop mount and cut most of the bumpstop off. It'll give me a bit more compression travel and allow me to compensate for some extra weight, and maybe let me stiffen the rear up even more during turns since the air spring will make the rear spring rate progressive under compression.

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  9. #9
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor 2.216VTurbo's Avatar
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    Re: 3.8L Dodge Dynasty

    Good read Adam Looks like you'll be building the worlds quickest/fastest Dynasty?

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  10. #10
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: 3.8L Dodge Dynasty

    As far as i know the old red 3.0 is still the world's fastest (proven) dynasty @ 15.2 with a slipping clutch, haha!! I think i heard of one turbo 8v dynasty years ago but i never heard any track times or details. There is a guy out there with a 3.8 swap using the newer (and much better) top end parts but i dont think he ever produced a timeslip either. A long time ago a guy built a turbo 3.3 dynasty but i never saw any times/dyno from him either and i dont know what ended up happening to that car (i half suspect it blew up because the turbo was horribly undersized).

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  11. #11
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor Ondonti's Avatar
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    Re: 3.8L Dodge Dynasty

    Ghetto mod on the stock size tb would be to cut off the arm, reweld so its a digressive profile (the the more you push, the slower it opens...meaning it opens very fast at first). This would not help drivability (just like putting on a bigger tb) but it would give you more torque output before downshifting. The other answer would be finish the bigger TB (more air at the same TPS voltage). Now, if MAP is somehow involved, sorry.
    Did you save any old 3.3Ls or did they get junked? Would be good for you to compare parts...and open up a 3.3L first since in all these years you are still a 3.3/3.8 virgin surgeon. I know you said you were taking something apart so I am guessing that must be one of these 3.3's. Also, as long as you can take up the slack, 3.3 cam is probably good enough to send out for a cheap grind.
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  12. #12
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: 3.8L Dodge Dynasty

    I've had 3 usable 3.3s, and i sent them all away. I kinda hate to throw really good motors away, but i have so much junk sitting around that im likely to use, that having giant spares for things that never break taking up space would just be stupid. So, i junked them all! I took the top end off the 115k good-condition motor in the 93 car and kept it for mocking up intake and exhaust mani for turbo, but i didnt dig into the bottom end at all. I thought about keeping the cam out of one but i wasnt sure if it would even be useful for a regrind so that lack of knowledge plus the effort it takes to pull a cam out of a 3.3 means i have no cam for grinding either. I tell myself i will walk through the van section at the junkyard and there will be one that is already most of the way to being pulled, but i may be lying to myself. I have so much crap sitting around that most of my decisions lately have been to send stuff to scrap.

    The biggest TB i have sitting around is a jeep 60mm, but i almost think that is too small to be worth modding the manifold at all for. I think i need to at least step up to 65-70mm to justify the effort of cutting and welding on the plenum. I think ford has a lot of 65mm tbs. Big_P was telling me yesterday that the guy who m90d his 3.0 daytona back in the day used one and the tps voltage was close enough that he didnt have to do anything about that part of it but splice it in. Should i settle for 65 or go bigger?

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  13. #13
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: 3.8L Dodge Dynasty

    So earlier i mentioned how the Dynasty dash doesnt give me a lot of easy gauge placement options.. Heres a pic:

    Im not a big fan of 2" round gauges in the first place because it's easy to end up with too many of them if you're really monitoring enough stuff on a turbo setup. I still bought one (dual thermocouple display) and im not sure what to do with it yet. I could do a 'pillar pod' mounted low on the a-pillar, behind my state required windshield stickers. It's a bit of work because id want to mold it in and get some paint made to paint match it. I MIGHT be able to fit one 2" round to the right of the radio, and im not against it, i just dont remember what's behind that panel. I'd have to check. My only other option id be any kind of happy about would be a pod molded into the panel under the steering column. Similar amount of work to the Apillar placement, but i wouldnt see what it was doing unless i took my eyes off the Nurburgring to look at it ().

    Ive pretty much settled on a goofy option for my wideband display. I have an old Apexi turbo timer shaped roughly like a very thick pen that has an LED display and a narrowband AFR display function. On my red dynasty i stuck it across the bottom of the instrument cluster and it fit and displayed really well other than the color mismatch of the display lighting. I think im going to use that to display off the 1v output of the wideband. Between the adjustments on the turbo timer unit and the wideband software i figure i can get it close enough to accurate that i'll be happy (at least within the range that actually matters..). The FIC will still see and log a fully accurate signal anyway, so the gauge is basically a glorified 'idiot light' for WOT anyway.



    Picture of the rear component tweeter install that i said i would post.


    Gratuitous exterior pic. I still need to cut up and reinstall my front fender lip trim.

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  14. #14
    turbo addict
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    Re: 3.8L Dodge Dynasty

    The 3.3's that were used in the Shelby Can-Am cars had a different cam and those engines were spinning something like 7500rpm (though they did have preproduction 3.5L cranks in them).

  15. #15
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: 3.8L Dodge Dynasty

    The number i remember is 6800, but i couldnt reference anything because i think i picked that up a long time ago on Dodgeintrepid.net when i had a 3.5L intrepid. Those guys were the only ones who really went after that can-am 3.3 info. There was no interest in the TM world.. Even to this day the most active/knowledgeable '3.3 person' on TD is a guy who came over from Neons.org because he put a 3.3 in his neon.

    I have some pics of the can-am parts, but no textual info saved anywhere, so id have to go back and start searching again. The fact that 2.2/2.5 people use Stock 3.3 springs as an upgrade (and i suspect those valves are heavier) for high rpm, plus my vague remembrances about can-am 3.3 rpm, lead me to believe the factory valvetrain on the 3.3s can handle at least 6500 rpm if not over 7. I think the can-am motors MAY have used stock valvesprings! That's something i can probably figure out by looking at my pics.

    Also, i got my dual egt gauge from Acannell today! It looks like it would work very well in the space to the right of the radio, so thats the first option im going to investigate. It also has a very cool look to it!

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  16. #16
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    Re: 3.8L Dodge Dynasty

    Allpar says 6800. Is that one of those aircraft meters? Those are cool, they even got some with with four or more meters in one!
    MinivanRider

  17. #17
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    Re: 3.8L Dodge Dynasty

    Quote Originally Posted by Vigo View Post
    The number i remember is 6800, but i couldnt reference anything because i think i picked that up a long time ago on Dodgeintrepid.net when i had a 3.5L intrepid. Those guys were the only ones who really went after that can-am 3.3 info. There was no interest in the TM world.. Even to this day the most active/knowledgeable '3.3 person' on TD is a guy who came over from Neons.org because he put a 3.3 in his neon.

    I have some pics of the can-am parts, but no textual info saved anywhere, so id have to go back and start searching again. The fact that 2.2/2.5 people use Stock 3.3 springs as an upgrade (and i suspect those valves are heavier) for high rpm, plus my vague remembrances about can-am 3.3 rpm, lead me to believe the factory valvetrain on the 3.3s can handle at least 6500 rpm if not over 7. I think the can-am motors MAY have used stock valvesprings! That's something i can probably figure out by looking at my pics.

    Also, i got my dual egt gauge from Acannell today! It looks like it would work very well in the space to the right of the radio, so thats the first option im going to investigate. It also has a very cool look to it!
    Maybe it was 6800, but I know they could go higher. Yes, the 3.3 valve springs can be used in the 8V engines, BUT, they HAVE to be shimmed correctly to get enough seat pressure, otherwise they will float at higher rpm/boost. Shimming them will lower the amount of lift the spring is capable of controlling due to coil bind. I'm not saying they are a bad part, just getting all the info out there.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rrider View Post
    Allpar says 6800. Is that one of those aircraft meters? Those are cool, they even got some with with four or more meters in one!
    Multi-reading electronic aircraft type EGT gauges are cool, BUT, they aren't fast reacting. They are meant for steady state running. I looked at them several times and never found one that would react fast enough to be worth it in an automotive racing situation (unless you are doing land speed stuff). That is why I'm set on just data logging each cylinder and directly monitoring the turbine inlet temp by a gauge in the car.

  18. #18
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: 3.8L Dodge Dynasty

    Multi-reading electronic aircraft type EGT gauges are cool, BUT, they aren't fast reacting. They are meant for steady state running. I looked at them several times and never found one that would react fast enough to be worth it in an automotive racing situation (unless you are doing land speed stuff). That is why I'm set on just data logging each cylinder and directly monitoring the turbine inlet temp by a gauge in the car.
    The gauge i bought was designed and built by member Acannell, and here is the for sale thread for it:
    http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ed!&highlight=

    According to his listing: "This gauge samples temperature 60 times a second and updates the display 10 times a second which is about as fast as you can go before it becomes too fast to read."

    The gauge itself does not log anything besides peak number, but, it's still pretty amazing that you could buy 2 of these gauge setups for a measly $220, and do a full throttle run and on top of being able to see what they are all doing, you could use the recall function to see the highest temp recorded in each runner! I dont think you can do much better for the price without doing a LOT of legwork building your own setup, so i'd at least give it a look!

    Dont push the red button.You hear me?

  19. #19
    turbo addict
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    Re: 3.8L Dodge Dynasty

    Agreed! I will give it a look just for grins. I'm pretty set on my decision. I used to be all about having gauges for everything in the cabin, but there is simply too much to do while driving at speed to be looking at peripheral stuff. I just need to now main, basic things, and if I'm tuning I'll log it. (well, I will when I get a logger! LOL)

  20. #20
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: 3.8L Dodge Dynasty

    I understand that completely. That is part of why i am not a big fan of 2" round gauges (more accurately i bemoan the lack of alternatives), because once you are monitoring everything you want to, you have a crapload of 2" gauges all over your interior! I am trying to keep this interior 'clean'. I think the 2" round gauge i bought from Acannell will be the only 2" round gauge i use on this one.

    Dont push the red button.You hear me?

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