Put the noid lite on it, has injector pulse. Guess I'm tearing into the cam timing...
Put the noid lite on it, has injector pulse. Guess I'm tearing into the cam timing...
you have the dizzy cap wired to the right firing order and rotation (note the 3.ol cap the spark terminals and not the same location inside to the outside)
Yeah, it's numbered on the outside and shows distributor rotation, and I did verify the distributor rotates in that direction. I also swapped the cap and wires off my running 3.0 just to eliminate those as a problem.Originally Posted by bakes
You know what...have you changed the plugs? The reason I ask is because I'm sure they gapped them up because of the MSD. I wonder if changing them for new plugs and gapping them to stock gap would help it?
Yeah, there was a brand new set of Denso's in the car so I put those in. It had Bosch Super plugs in it. Neither of the them had a very large gap, didn't check them but looked like .040ish.
i wonder if the timing belt jump at the crank and the cams are still in time i have seen this twice on two tow in i had back in the day
look like need to go back to basics suck squeeze bang blow
is there any spark if unplug one hole??
Those plugs are 2 steps colder than stock IIRC. They were to be used with the spray. I don't think it would make that big a difference trying to pop it off, though. I just wanted to let you know.
I'd certainly go and check that the timing belt is still where it's supposed to be.
I also wonder if they swapped out the sensors for common GM sensors since that seems to be the "de-facto" thing that most aftermarket ECM's use. If so, they might not be giving the computer the correct signals and freaking it out. (then again, you did say it was trying to start and there weren't any codes, so maybe that's not an issue anyway...just thinking)
I think the coolant sensor is a GM piece, don't think that would keep it from starting though. And I tried it with it unplugged too.
Have you checked spark timing while the engine is cranking?
Yeah it was like 18 I think? On the scanner anyway, didn't check with a light.
I held a stock cam gear up to the adj one on the car today, and near as I can tell, looks like the marks are in the same spot. So, front is 2 teeth advanced and the rear is one tooth advanced. Going to try and move it into the shop tomorrow so I can work on it easier. Gonna have to get help though, this thing is harder to push that any car I've ever had!
2 "teeth" advanced is waaay off. I think I read somewhere each tooth is like 18 degrees.
Yeah it's pretty far, and probably why I hear it firing in the exhaust, exhaust valves are probably opening too early and dumping the combustion out the pipe.
Keep in mind this engine is now an interference engine. So, when you change the cam timing by a significant amount, I'd turn it over slowly by had with the plugs out to make sure valve don't hit pistons. I don't want bad things to happen!
If it is interference, better have a GOOD hold on that rear cam, that is the one that always wants to spontaneously spin on me...
It's supposed to be a 10:1 engine, so it is most likely an interference engine. Oh, and I *think* the valve are larger, but I'm not 100% on that.
Well I don't think it has hit anything yet, not with 200+psi of compression...
I got it inside the shop tonight with help from Jay (jayspartanburg on here), hopefully will get a chance to tear it down tomorrow.
Got the front tore down tonight, except ran out of battery in my SnapOn gun so couldn't get the crank bolt out. Probably don't really need to, but I want to anyway just to be sure all the timing marks are right.
Removed the cam gears and used a screwdriver as a pin to compare them to a stock gear, and it seems they are set to exactly match the stock gear. However, there are no marks on the gears! So they are pretty much worthless for adjusting cam timing, as there's no way at all to tell how many degrees you move it. So I'm just going to reassemble it with stock gears, which are lighter anyway. I have a friend who may be able to mark the adj ones properly, if so I may re-install them later.
Also, I will take some more pics the exhaust routing while I have the wheel off and the front of the engine apart.
1/2" cordless snapon gun is amazing... now post some pics!
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Marks on the cam gears would be nice but not required. Just look at a picture on the internet of adjustable cam gears to get a feel for how little you need to move them and then use a degree wheel to see where they are at. It takes a little time but once you have a 0 degree baseline you can put a mark on it and go from there. I wouldn't trust the marks on factory made aftermarket cam gears anyway. They should always be checked with a degree wheel.
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