Well, good and bad. I got it to hit on ether, but can't get it to run on it's own. CEL bulb is burnt out or removed, and the data link appears to have been chopped off for some dumbass reason, so I got no way of checking codes or seeing the datastream. Will try some more stuff tomorrow. Lot of unknowns to go through.
How is it even trying to run with the data link chopped off? From what I know of that plug the computer power is spliced into one of the terminals of that plug (DB/YL wire IIRC).
Hmm, not sure, will have to look it up in the FSM (I have a '90 wiring FSM). I just used it to make sure the injector plugs are on the right injectors, so that's not the problem.Originally Posted by Reaper1
Looked it up and the data link is on the driver side, not the pass side where the wires are cut. So, it may still be there. Need to go through the diagrams some more to figure out what the last of the cut wires are for. Still need to check fuel pressure too.
OH! I thought you were looking for it on the driver's side! To my knowledge all years, except maybe '95, had the data link over by the driver's side strut tower.
Nope, the earlier ones have it on the pass side.
I learned this because one time i bought an 85 new yorker with some stuff unplugged under the hood, so i found what looked like the right connector on the drivers side and plugged scanner into it and smoked the whole harness! Eventually i figured out that back in ye olden days that plug was on the passenger side.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
I suppose like Vigo said, the EARLY LM type cars. To my knowledge my '90 has that plug over on the driver's side. I know my '88 does. The '92 Shadow I owned years ago had it on the driver's side...so did my '89 van and LeBaron. If it's on the passenger's side that is a HUGE surprise to me!!
My '89 Lebaron has it on the driver side.
Well fuel pressure seems good, little over 50 when the pump's running, holds 45 with it off.
So they did cut the diagnostic plug out. No idea why. Barely left any wire sticking out of the harness to reattach to either. Smh...
Wired in a new diagnostic plug, still no start, and no real codes either, just a fan relay circuit and a alternator field circuit code. I can see rpm on the scanner while cranking. This is gonna end up being something really weird or really silly...
So you have the computer powering up and working, you have spark, and you have fuel pressure. Sounds like you're not getting injector pulse. Do you have noid lights?
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Dumb question....does it have compression? It has been sitting a while. I know you've cranked it over and got it to pop a few times, but maybe the rings are stuck? They *shouldn't* be, but you never know.
It seems everything else is present, unless the injectors aren't firing like Vigo, said.
Check grounds?
I've only checked one cyl so far (#2), but it had 200+ compression. I have not checked grounds yet. I can bring home the noid lite set from the shop, but I'm pretty sure it's getting injector pulse because the plugs seem to be getting wet. I'll check grounds tonight, that could be it, should've checked them already but it slipped my mind. I changed the cap and wires with the ones off my other 3.0 that I know runs, so all that is good.
If it's not grounds or some other silly thing I'm missing, I'm thinking the cams may not be timed right or something. They seem to be close, had the valve cover off and the valves seem to be closing around the right points, but who knows. It has Mitsu gears on it, so no idea if the timing marks on them are correct, if they are (and assuming the mark on the crank pulley is right), the rear is 1 tooth advanced and the front is 2 teeth advanced. And then of course they are adjustable and I can't see any marks for that, so now it's really like shooting in the dark...
Are you running the ignition with the old Msd or just stock coil . i dont have enought coffee in me this morning to remenber . if runnning the msd loose it for now
I think he bypassed the MSD.
For the cam gears, maybe get a set of stock gears and compare where these are set to where stock gears are lined up using the keyway as the common reference. I do remember they had been adjusted a few times as evidence from marks where the screws were tightened down on them, so I'd be willing to bet they are not set at stock cam timing settings. Plus, I don't remember what the center line is for that cam grind. In the paperwork you have the cam card should say.
No more MSD, no more Haltech. All stock electronics and ignition now.
if the cams were out of phase by enough to not run, you wouldn't get 200 psi in #2. dumb question, is the distributor phased correctly? that wound up causing me my no run issue. will it still catch on starter fluid? is it too lean to start?
Assuming that the pulley mark is right, with it on TDC and the cam dots at the top, it points directly at #1 terminal inside the cap (basically pointing directly towards the back of the engine). I have moved it around a tooth either way, no real difference.
Advancing a cam generally increases cranking compression, correct? So if it was too far advanced it could have abnormally high compression numbers, or so I was thinking. Could be wrong.
When it hits, it sounds like it's firing out the exhaust, like the timing is real late or something. Or maybe the exhaust is opening early and dumping the compression on the power stroke.
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