i'll have to look again but i think there might be some other routines that are also writing to the eeprom.
89 Voyager LE, 2.5T2 - rest in peace
87 Charger Shelby T2 (2.4 conversion in process)
I think I only disabled the 1 routine in the HEX codes I gave you. Wowzer's way disables both routines. Probably, both need to be "turned off".
shelgame, i had him comment out both of the emr routines and he reported the car would not start at all. and commenting out the first routine only did not work although i think he did get some feedback. would it make sense to try to comment out the specific 2 or 3 lines in each routine that write to the eeprom?
89 Voyager LE, 2.5T2 - rest in peace
87 Charger Shelby T2 (2.4 conversion in process)
Probably, 1 of those is not the right routine, then. If they're disabled, it shouldn't affect the car running or starting. I'll have to look more closely.
There is a routine that also does something with the EEPROM, and if disabled caused some problems (I don't remember hat happened, though). That routine doesn't seem to affect the flash memory, though. Maybe it's a 1-time write or something.
i'm going to post up my most recent 781 cal today. i've been using the t-sbec25 to help try to ID stuff. been alot of guessing !!!!!!
89 Voyager LE, 2.5T2 - rest in peace
87 Charger Shelby T2 (2.4 conversion in process)
I drove it on the .bin that I edited with the hex editor like you instructed, and it drove 36 miles roughly before it suddenly started misfiring and stuttering while in gear (instead of just dying). Shifted to neutral w/ my foot off the gas and it died, turned key off and on again then restarted while rolling. Fired up and ran fine again.
When I commented out the 2 routines, I got a bunch of clicking noises under the hood like all the relays were cycling rapidly and the pump ran but it wouldn't start or even hit, cause it was flooded when I reverted it back to stock and restarted.
When I commented out the 1 routine (the first one) it didn't make any noises whatsoever and the pump did not run. Did not think to check if it had spark or not.
Let me know what you come up with and I'll try it out.
Went on a mountain run yesterday and it ran pretty hot and the radiator tank blew out. It was a used one out of a Lebaron I junked that looked new-ish, but it always ran a little warm while driving. Hoping a brand new one will fix the running hot issues it's had. I did push it a bit harder than I should have yesterday (ie pegged the gauge lol) cause I wasn't sure if the gauge actually read right, apparently it did. It started pinging and barely pulling up hill in first gear to get to a pull off. Fortunately the engine seems fine after cooling off.
Also, need to find or make a lower cover to close off the nose area so air coming through it will go through the radiator instead of under the car. There's some gaps around the edges too due to no AC condenser, probably need to close those off also.
Working on the cal again.
Also, got the new rad in. Flushed the cooling system, new 180 t-stat, new water pump/timing belt/front seals. Got some foam and blocked off the gaps around the rad. Still running hot when pushed. Still need to get a top panel for the nose and an air dam for the bottom, and I'd like to make some other panels to scoop/channel the air even better. But, I'm not sure that is the issue, nothing so far has changed the cooling issue at all. I'm starting to wonder if the cat may be partially clogged and causing heat build up under heavy throttle. I think I'm gonna remove it and see (not required here in SC anyway). Wondering how much louder and obnoxious it's gonna be lol, it's already kinda loud ... Block may have had a bunch of crud from sitting though, I flushed the heater core not long ago and had the heat working, but now it's got no heat again, so must be stopped up again.
Also, hoping to have the header system cleaned up soon and then paint with header primer and paint.
Annnd I think my diff is bad...
One 3.0 block I got from the yard wouldn't drain from the plugs because it was so full of junk.
Probably not the problem. Scanner ride along temps when pushed? Get the factory ducting state before anything else. It will do good things even if you still think it's hot
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
Making progress in the tune and V6 MP Scan...
I just happen to have a new one in my trans that's going to get ripped out in favor of a quafie
I have no idea what diff style it is off hand but it's in that trans cindy had for sale a couple of years back .. the new 588 with the 408 fd
still never driven & in the crate so the diff should be good
no ring gear or bolts though lol...but it has new bearings on it of course
That's good news!!
Reminds me of a Dynasty my wife had years ago, something happened to the inner joint.
No rips or visible damage just the boot spinning on the stationary axle.
Thanks
Randy
There is no logical reason to call an Engine a motor.
Randy Hicks
86 GLHS60
86 GLHS 373 : SOLD, but never forgotten
89 Turbo Minivan
83 Turbo Rampage : SOLD
Edmonton,Alberta,Canada