88 dodge shadow

[bgbmxer]

Was searching Craigslist one day when I found an 88 shadow turbo for sale and decided to inquire. It was listed for 1800 and said it had been sitting for a few years. An old guy had owned it for 40k of its 62k life where it sat since 2008. I went an looked at the car and by that time the daughter of the old man had a change of heart about selling it. So I pestered her till she eventually changed her mind. Day of the title transfer comes and the price was 1300 for the car. Then we started talking and she said I removed some of his possessions out of the car and can't possibly make you pay 1300 for it (musty mildew smell in the interior) so it ended up being only a grand. Here are some pics of the car the day I picked her up.

[raccoon]

base model turbo! a hard find these days.

[bgbmxer]

[bgbmxer]

The body is in great shape but as for all the rubber hoses brake lines and anything else on the bottom side it's gone. I don't understand how the bottom of the body is good and everything else is like these pictures so its all getting replaced.



---------- Post added at 09:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:33 PM ----------

This is a pic of the vac block I plan on running from McMaster Carr. Also getting The engine bay ready for a rad/ic combo.

[Shadowv4l]

nice find! A little TLC and you have a cool little car.

[Dodge Aries K]

Oh man, I love it! The 87-88 P body are, in my opinion anyway, much cooler than their 89+ counterparts. I just really like the front end much more.

[bgbmxer]

Any of the pbody guys know how swappable the pedal assembly from the 89 is? Is it a direct bolt in? There is a 5 speed setup at the local jy that I might snag.

[cordes]

Any of the pbody guys know how swappable the pedal assembly from the 89 is? Is it a direct bolt in? There is a 5 speed setup at the local jy that I might snag.

I'm not certain about that specific swap, but I've taken 88 or 89 Daytona pedals and swapped them into my 86 600. I think they all pretty much interchange.

[bgbmxer]

Here's the gas tank that was in it. It's been replaced along with a new sending unit pump still worked so I'm going to take a chance on it.


---------- Post added at 04:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:39 PM ----------

All is ready to go with the tank other than the roll over check valve. It came out in pieces. Bought one for a jeep are will see how it fits.

---------- Post added at 04:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:44 PM ----------

One of the only go fast pieces I'm putting on for now. I am gonna fab up hard intercooler pipes and an intake. Going to run a ssqv bov and put some ports in for water meth and a intake air sensor if I think it will help in tuning but I'm unsure yet.

---------- Post added at 04:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:48 PM ----------


New brakes brake lines hoses struts and shocks all around for the old girl

[135sohc]

The jeep rollover valve has a slightly smaller OD than our original rollover valve, the grommet is the same OD as our old one but the ID is slightly reduced so the valve fits tightly and not leak vapors. Did you get the grommet to go with the new valve also ? if not I have a NIP one here, pm me your address and I'll send it your way.

[bgbmxer]

It was a kit that came with both I got off amazon by the number that was posted on an old thread about the rollover valve. Said it came with both. Hopefully it does. I'm waiting on that to get here to get the tank back in.

---------- Post added at 05:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:18 PM ----------

Another issue I'm going to have is retaining cruise control with the intercooler and rad setup. It's factory location is directly in front of the inlet of the intercooler

[zin]

I believe you can just move the actuator to under the battery... Some had it that way from the factory (TCs and some others?), should allow you to retain the CC with the TII rad set-up.

Mike

[bgbmxer]

I believe you can just move the actuator to under the battery... Some had it that way from the factory (TCs and some others?), should allow you to retain the CC with the TII rad set-up.

Mike

Ill have too look into this when I work on it next it was mounted to the battery tray from the factory and it couldn't be more in the way there.

[zin]

Hmm... Might be miss-remembering then. I thought that was how the factory did the TII/CC option, but I've never had one with cruise so I could be mistaken.

Mike

[cordes]

Hmm... Might be miss-remembering then. I thought that was how the factory did the TII/CC option, but I've never had one with cruise so I could be mistaken.

Mike

I believe you're right. It was just bent to clear the IC hose from what I recall.

[bgbmxer]

Ill have to figure something out. Probably after I do the intercooler pipes

[bgbmxer]

Well time to update some of my progress. The jeep roll over valve kit came so I got the new tank sending unit and pump all together and put it in. Ran all my vac lines and pu the stock t1 airbox and stuff back on and have been driving it around the neighborhood (title still hasn't shown up from pendot a month later). It runs decent boosts as it should and shifts decent. The idle quality could be better i swear the injectors are sticking or something since they are awfully loud I also can not get the tach to quit going crazy. I soldered all the pin connections and this made no difference so I'm unsure what to do next other than try a different cluster. Once I get it inspected I plan to work on the intercooler piping and I need to clean the interior it's got that mildew smell from sitting. Airing it out has helped so I'm confident I can get the smell out by just a good interior cleaning.

[zin]

Run some Lucy's injector cleaner through it, it has helped me out in the past smooth out idle issues, assuming it has fresh ignition parts (cap, rotor, and wires) and has the timing properly set.

They will likely still be a bit loud, but shouldn't cause a poor idle if the cleaner did the job, if they are still a problem, you'll want to either get new ones or send them out for a more "industrial" cleaning.

Seems like it's coming along nicely! Keep up the good work!

Mike

[bgbmxer]

I don't have a timing light but will have to borrow one. I'm going to check the cap and rotor as such for burned things. I put new plugs and wires and such. Still at a loss on this tach

[zin]

If you have re-flowed the solder on the tach's board, etc, all the grounds are good, and the connectors are clean and making good contact... Then I'll put my vote towards a bad tach/board.

Mike