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Thread: decal removal

  1. #1
    Mitsu booster
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    decal removal

    What is the easiest way to remove the decals from my 87 glhs.

  2. #2
    turbo addict
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    Re: decal removal

    I'd imagine a heatgun (or hot hairdryer) might be worth a try.
    DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!

  3. #3
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: decal removal

    Quote Originally Posted by RoadWarrior222 View Post
    I'd imagine a heatgun (or hot hairdryer) might be worth a try.
    I can't recommend that based on my experience.

    I've read that 3M makes a deal you put on your drill to take them off, but I haven't used one personally.

  4. #4
    boostaholic BIGBRUDDA's Avatar
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    Re: decal removal

    You are correct Cordes. They are available at auto paint supply houses, about $8 last I bought one.It's basicly a giant round art gum eraser. Fits to a 1/4 in arbor on a drill motor. Carefull you can burn the paint.
    And then there's always the spray decal remover. Nasty nasty stuff!

  5. #5
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor turbo84voyager's Avatar
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    Re: decal removal

    I woud try a heat gun first. Chances are it will be the best choice. A hair dryer is not hot enough. A cheap Harbor Freight heat gun is good enough for this. I recently "de-wooded" my project roadmaster and for the most part a heat gun worked the best. The trick is to get the decal to release at the end then start pulling the decal and keep moving the heat gun over the decal where it is pulling away from the paint. To release it at the end warm up a spot and the decal will start to lift. Use your fingernails or a body filler applicator to start peeling it back. Just dont heat up one spot too long so you dont blister the paint. I didnt worry about this on the wagon since I will be painting it and even then I did not hurt the paint at all.

    The "Eraser Disks" are great for smaller decals and pinstripes, but most drills are not fast enough and they should be used with a D/A sander with it locked so it just spins not orbital. From my experience with them and have used them quite a bit over the years, they dont burn the paint that easy but they can spread out the glue from the decal and then you need to wipe it down with wax and grease remover or laquer thinner to clean up the glue. Just keep it moving. For large declas in my opinion it takes way too long with these.

    One thing is no matter what you do it will take time to get them all off. Also make sure none are clear coated over because those will not come off without removing paint.
    Justin
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  6. #6

    Re: decal removal

    If you're trying to save the paint, I would just tediously take the time to remove them. If not, Acetone will work with some elbow grease or a heat gun. But I'd probably just use the acetone. It breaks down the glue and I did my whole car (middle stripes) in one sitting with probably 1/10 of a small can of acetone.
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  7. #7
    turbo addict
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    Re: decal removal

    Quote Originally Posted by turbo84voyager View Post
    I woud try a heat gun first. Chances are it will be the best choice. A hair dryer is not hot enough.
    Most aren't but there's a few (Older ones) around that will blow as hot as a heatgun low setting.
    DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!

  8. #8
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    Re: decal removal

    Quote Originally Posted by turbo84voyager View Post
    Also make sure none are clear coated over because those will not come off without removing paint.
    Might be able to carefully score along the edges to break the clear coat, but you'd have to use a very light touch, or you'd be through to the metal and make rust openings.

    I'd imagine the heatgun vs eraser thing depends on whether they're still plasticcy or whether they are UV deteriorated and cracking up.
    DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!

  9. #9
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor turbo84voyager's Avatar
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    Re: decal removal

    Quote Originally Posted by RoadWarrior222 View Post
    I'd imagine the heatgun vs eraser thing depends on whether they're still plasticcy or whether they are UV deteriorated and cracking up.
    Good point. The eraser would work better if the decals are all cracked.
    Justin
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    01 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP - 3.8 supercharged! Only 5K miles....
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  10. #10
    Slugmobile & MeanMini Caretaker Turbo Mopar Contributor wheming's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	uploadfromtaptalk1361038078161.jpg 
Views:	70 
Size:	66.3 KB 
ID:	44020

    This is the 3M Scoth-Brite kit. PN should be visible but its #07501.
    For use with the Roloc #1 holder PN 07500.
    Worked well when removing the molding adhesive glue from Slug's door moldings that were peeling off.
    The discs will wear down eventually as you can see. I only used half of them at a time. There are 8 thin discs stacked together, as that is not clear from the pic.
    Its important to use at the recommended drill speed. I had to buy another drill to get the rpm range required. But the 3M kit worked awesome.

    FYI I ordered from Carquest.
    Wayne H.

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  11. #11
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    Re: decal removal

    Yah, 4000 RPM is hard to find in a drill. Most "household" general purpose types are 1000-1800ish, I've got one that does 2500, but it's only got a quarter inch chuck on, which is annoying.
    DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!

  12. #12
    Mitsu booster
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    Re: decal removal

    Thanks guys, you gave me a bunch of choices.

  13. #13

    Re: decal removal

    Quote Originally Posted by wheming View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	uploadfromtaptalk1361038078161.jpg 
Views:	70 
Size:	66.3 KB 
ID:	44020

    This is the 3M Scoth-Brite kit. PN should be visible but its #07501.
    For use with the Roloc #1 holder PN 07500.
    Worked well when removing the molding adhesive glue from Slug's door moldings that were peeling off.
    The discs will wear down eventually as you can see. I only used half of them at a time. There are 8 thin discs stacked together, as that is not clear from the pic.
    Its important to use at the recommended drill speed. I had to buy another drill to get the rpm range required. But the 3M kit worked awesome.

    FYI I ordered from Carquest.
    This IS the best and easiest way.....it wont damage paint, Ive used them a few times

  14. #14
    Garrett booster
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    Re: decal removal

    After over 20 years of baking in the sun those decals are not going to come off well with a heat gun. They will most likely come off a tiny little piece at a time as you burn your fingers and curse your existence. Go with the eraser wheel. Keep your rpms low and keep the wheel perpendicular to the paint to prevent burning through the clear. Any remaining residue can be removed with solvent. I like to go the area with a polishing compound afterwards as the eraser wheel will leave rub marks on paint.

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