Always hone, always. Absolutely no way of bedding rings to a pre-glazed cylinder, even if you can see hone marks, it's not "sharp" any more.
Always hone, always. Absolutely no way of bedding rings to a pre-glazed cylinder, even if you can see hone marks, it's not "sharp" any more.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
I think i'm gonna go with Brian Slowe and several other people's recommendations. They say .018 top ring and .020 bottom ring. Its so close to what everyone else was saying too. I think I'm jumping on the band wagon of people saying the lower ring should be .002 larger than the top. When common thought in the past was the opposite.
Hmm, well I guess i might as well re-hone it since it's already gonna be apart. RoadWarrior, what grit of hone would you recommend?? Thanks.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
Why does everyone call it honing, when its deglazing...honing sizes the hole, deglazing prepares and surface that is already to size if needed..?...I understand the confusion because you by a "cylinder hone" but its still for deglazing
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The glazed cylinder wall causes rings to "skate" on the highly polished finish and discourages the minute amount of wear which is necessary to mate piston rings with the bore.
The interrupted "deglazed" finish contains minute hills and valleys which carry a film of oil which will retard which will retard scuffing during break of as well as produce the type of cylinder finish piston rings can mate to very rapidly.
The finish produced by a 220-280 grit stone is most desirable. The cross hatch pattern should intersect at approximately a 450 angle. Too flat an angle leads to ring spinning which prevents seating the rings.
Probably the most critical part of the deglazing operation is the proper cleaning after deglazing. The residue of honing, if left in the engine, will rapidly destroy all moving parts. It is recommended that engines be cleaned thoroughly with soap and water. Clean with soap and water until the bore can be wiped with a clean white cloth without soiling the cloth. After clean up, oil the area to prevent rust formation. Waterless hand soap also serves as an excellent cleaning agent.
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No. 1733-37[/TD][TD="width: 3%"][/TD][TD="width: 50%"]GLAZE BREAKER HONE Sturdily built deglazing hone breaks the glaze in any cylinder. Flexible drive shaft permits easy access to all cylinders. Cone expansion adjusts hone to cylinder wall with uniform pressure. Adjustable spring tension lets you select desired pressure.
Fits standard %" drill. Cylinder range is 3" to 6", no extensions required.
Supplied with 220 grit stones recommended for quick, positive seating of steel and chrome rings. Replacement stones and pads available.
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---------- Post added at 04:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:29 PM ----------
This is an engine hone...
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
Order it right away because most places generally carry only a few grits..Ive heard 180 is a good all around, but its best to do as RoadWarrior stated, check with ring manufacturer.
I've got exactly the same prob. 2.5 with fwd venolia. Good compression ( between 138 and 145 ) and good leakdown between 6 an 12%.
Spark plugs are covered with oil and looks to have a teespoon of oil in every piston dome.
Smokes a ton on decel. Not under boost nor in normal driving but has soon has i lift off hello smoke cloud!
No pcv, hose strait to atmosphere. No oil in intercooler piping nor in the downpipe.
Oh and the head is brand new stage3 from Cindy with f4 cam kit
I suppect the ring job but unsure how to be sure of that.
I'm really tired chasing this oil consumption. The block is going to a reputable engine builder.
Or maybe someone from this forum could really help?
^^^ valve stem seals and/or guides.... but correct PCV plumbing may alleviate it some, it's not just some "hippie emissions crap"
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
Thinking more about that, lets say it WAS just your lack of PCV plumbing, but now you could have rolled the newish valve seals over, unlikely to be guides, since they're getting hyper lubricated from this. What's happening is that on decel your ports are getting high vacuum and because you are not pulling vacuum on the valve cover there's 14lb of pressure forcing oil past the seals into the intake.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
How could a lot of pressure be building if i'm venting directly to the atmosphere. Please explain the difference with PCV without one.
Long story short. I blew 2 rod bearings on my previous 2.5 block. I came across someone selling a supposedly rebuild 2.5 with venolias for 400$. Bought it, looked really good. Reassembled everything and motor smoked badly. My other motor did not smoke with same PCV setup???
---------- Post added at 12:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:29 PM ----------
Someting is shure, ill post result when it's gonna be resolved.
The atmosphere is pressure compared to high vacuum in intake during decel.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
Replacement rings are in stock. Email was sent to you today with 2.2 + .040 piston and ring specs attachment. We haven't heard of ring issues before with the Wisecos. These are the same ring sets that have always come with the pistons. We have sold thousands of these. Not sure what the issue was but the replacement ring set seems to have worked with jckrieger. Contacting Wiseco regarding ring composition and cylinder wall preparation might be the best solution.
Chris-TU
Last edited by Chris W; 02-20-2013 at 01:22 AM.
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