Brake bleeding

[turbovanman²]

Glad you got her fixed. Brake problems are not fun at all.

Sure they are, thumb:

[Force Fed Mopar]

I was gonna say adjust the shoes, as I'm sure it is drums all round

[RoadWarrior222]

Vigo mentioned bike tire pumps in another thread and reminded me that the old style ones could be reconfigured as vacuum pumps. They don't tend to "hold" a vacuum any more than they "hold" pressure, meaning the piston in them leaks when it's static, but you can spike the pressure while pumping enough to fill a tire, or suck on something a bit...

They have a cup washer as the plunger/piston, that actually functions as the valve as well. In older ones this would be leather. In newer ones it's probably plastic of some kind. Anyway, if you take them apart and flip the cup washer over, they suck instead of blow. If you've got one with a leather washer in, it might be dried up, soak it in oil overnight then reinstall smothered in grease.

To use to bleed brakes you need a pressure container, of some sort, like the ones supplied with the vac pump in the pic I posted earlier. This has to seal at the lid, and be sealed around the hose nipples. A mason jar should be an acceptable substitute, but bear in mind if you whack it while sucking on it, it may implode. The incoming nipple is a passthrough, need a piece of tube off it going right to the bottom of the jar, the outgoing nipple is the one the pump sucks on, and ideally should be a valve. If you've got an old tire valve with a long thread on it, you can fit upside down in the mason jar lid and that should work, especially if it's threaded all the way, such that you can just screw the bike pump hose straight to it. Use semi rigid tubing, harder plastic that won't suck flat easily.

Now if you don't have a valve in the jar outlet, it's recommended to only do a single stroke, before locking off teh bleeder nipple, because moving the pump handle back in may make it blow for an inch or so of movement, or pushing it back too hard might not let air get around the cup washer quick enough and make pressure. With a valve in line you should be okay to pump away until you fill the jar or run out of fluid in the res.

---------- Post added at 08:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:22 AM ----------

Oh you may need to add a regular washer or two to the cup washer in the pump, either to space it a little off the shaft, to give it room to close up, or as a backing washer, so it doesn't pull off the screw/bolt when you reef on it.

[tryingbe]

Wound up being the master cylinder. 17 dollars later its fixed. Easiest master cylinder over ever changed. Works great. Locks up all 4 now. Thanks for the input guys!

I hope you got a new one, not a rebuilt one.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ylinder-please!!!!!!!

[c2xejk]

I've used vacuum pump once to bleed, never again.

Pressure bleeder is so much better.

http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed...eder/index.htm

I will second pressure bleeding. WAY easier and quicker than having pump the pedal a bazillion times...

[RoadWarrior222]

Heh, why didn't I check that link when first posted, that's pretty awesome. Probably have enough junk to rig that already.

Although, if you really wanna have fun with it, drill the hole in the cap deliberately off center.... then if an engineer sees it, first his eyes will bleed and he'll develop a nervous tic, then he won't be able to sleep that night, trying to think of the "simple but obvious" reason that he's missing that it was offset...

[roachjuice]

I hope you got a new one, not a rebuilt one.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ylinder-please!!!!!!!

Brand spanking rebuilt! I've NEVER had a problem out of a rebuilt master cylinder. There's one on my Omni. There was one on my iroc z28. Sold tons to customers when I worked at oreilly. It's all good.

[black86glhs]

I will second pressure bleeding. WAY easier and quicker than having pump the pedal a bazillion times...

Your not supposed to pump the pedal at all. You push it, hold, open the bleeder, close it. Repeat. If you pump the pedal, it breaks up the air bubbles and makes it harder to bleed.
Trust me I used to do it that way too when I was younger.

[supercrackerbox]

Brand spanking rebuilt! I've NEVER had a problem out of a rebuilt master cylinder. There's one on my Omni. There was one on my iroc z28. Sold tons to customers when I worked at oreilly. It's all good.

'Scuse me while I grab my waders. I think it's about to get deep.

[RoadWarrior222]

Your not supposed to pump the pedal at all. You push it, hold, open the bleeder, close it. Repeat. If you pump the pedal, it breaks up the air bubbles and makes it harder to bleed.
Trust me I used to do it that way too when I was younger.

I have that problem with every helper that thinks they know a little bit... "That's the way I did it for my dad"

[black86glhs]

'Scuse me while I grab my waders. I think it's about to get deep.

I never had any issues either......









However, I have seen problems on other cars. So I only use new myself.

[roachjuice]

I didn't have an option to get new.

[butchsuppe]

I made a reverse bleeder out of a fuel pump and coffee can. Some street rods have the master under the floor and a PITA to bleed without some sort of presure bleeder. A reverse bleeder pumps the fluid thru the bleeder screw at the whl. Works on hyd. clutches too.