Well that was a waste of time...

[Dave]

Went racing last night. Had a 4:1 ratio of 94 to 110 octane. Full interior, open DP, and M&H slicks.

First pass, came out at 5psi - I can't build boost fast. 14.7 at 97.5mph. Urgh. Noticed the boost was still creeping and falling.

Second pass, screw it I'll sit there until I got my boost. Came out at 10psi and smoked 'em all through 1st gear. 14.00 at 98mph. Boost still creeping and falling.

Third pass. Forget the burnout. I've been wheel hopping because it would start spinning as soon as I left the box. I like my axles, so I just rolled up to the line. Built boost before the other guy even staged. 8psi. Good launch, could've came out a little higher. 14.1 at 98mph. Still creeping and falling.

What have I learned? My WG arm still needs shortened. Don't rush things at the track. And Mustangs are my bizznotch.

The boost was spiking to 21psi falling to 18psi then spiking again to 21psi. Did that twice in 2nd gear and about 3 times in 3rd. I think if I could've hooked and got the boost down to 20psi steady I would've gotten a 13.5. That's still disapointing. I went a 13.72 with the stock turbo and i/c. Now I got a big T3/T04E 50 trim and a Mishimoto FMIC and bigger pipes. Maybe my torque converter is starting to slip too much.

[unluckyty]

Bryan, that is close to the times I thought you would run. Almost identical to my times in the Shelby Z. You'll get it figured out, maybe the dyno time will help.

Did you see my video in my gallery, probably an identical run to yours.

[Bubba]

Part of your issue is it's a different set-up now than before, should take a bit of practicing to get use to the different feel. I've got the same spiking issue as you've got with my set-up, but now it's only spiking maybe 2psi which is fine. The tighter you go with the wastegate arm, the more spiking you'll see, or atleast I did. There's a happy medium, I adjusted mine so that I could slide the arm on with the flapper completely closed, then tightened 1 half turn. Any looser, then I'll have a constantly slightly open flapper with a leak to fight against.

[Frank]

Ya because now the flapper is hammering shut, backpressure builds able to force the flapper open, bleeds off, then the flapper shuts, etc, continous cycle.

I think I might have told him to tighten it up even more without much further warning. It was obvious it was loose before... now I guess it might be too tight??????


Frank

[Bubba]

Bryan, I'll be at your place this weekend, I can help you adjust it where it's just tight enough to hold the flapper shut.

[Frank]

Hey Christian, is that Stage1 convertor the same one that Ryan had in the car originally? I know Ryan went thru like 3 of them before they found the right stall speed, what si that stall speed at now?

[Dave]

So how is it physically possible to adjust the WG arm to not spike more than 4psi and not blow the puck open then hammer shut?? Bigger SV maybe with a larger puck? I don't want to resort to that. There has to be a way to adjust that arm properly.

It was too loose before. I've now noticed it doesn't blow the puck open as often. It rarely does it actually. It's an intermittent problem. On the way home I nailed it and it held a steady 21psi. But at the track it wouldn't hold the boost right.

[unluckyty]

Bryan,
While you have all that high octane in the tank, unhook your boost controller, from the wg can( plug it). Take a drive, slowly roll into the throttle in 3rd gear, see what your base boost( watch boost closely, it can be over 30#, be prepared to let off of the throttle if gets over your comfortable boost level) is with the tension you have on the arm now.

I have unhooked my g-valve, now I am only using the wg can/ adj arm to set boost . I like it the best so far. My previous setting used with the valve, (22#) unhooked hit 30#. Then loosen the rod till the boost is where you want it. Nice steady even boost in every gear

On a side note, at the boost your running now, I don't think you need that high of an octane, possibly hurting spool up, with the larger cooler.

I busted my 12.9 on 93oct at a max 22# with the alky unplugged.

[turbovanman²]

Bryan, new setup, takes time. Been there, done that. One thing you must remember, the head is your cork, even though you have a larger turbo on there, your head is like a straw, you will need more boost to run faster. I know the T3/T4 flows more at the same setting but if you had a decent head, it would make a difference. Turn up the boost, I bet you'll be suprised.

[Bubba]

Hey Christian, is that Stage1 convertor the same one that Ryan had in the car originally? I know Ryan went thru like 3 of them before they found the right stall speed, what si that stall speed at now?

No, he had a converter with a custom stall speed, stage whatever. Mine is just the normal Stage 1 and stall is pretty high on it I believe. I did have to send it back one time because it blew up internally after only 50 miles, this one has been fine for about 1100 miles, although I've never raced the car or launched it from a stand still (afraid of breaking something)

[Frank]

I was amazing that Ryan didnt break more parts because of the weight of that chassis.


Frank

[Bubba]

I was amazing that Ryan didnt break more parts because of the weight of that chassis.


Frank

Yup...I hear ya, she's a heavy b**** Running a bit better I might add, but I'm still having another head built for it...tinkering with the idea of doing a tbi header so long as I don't have to modify the firwall for it to fit.

[Bubba]

I was amazing that Ryan didnt break more parts because of the weight of that chassis.


Frank

He did crack a quaife...pretty hard to do if ya ask me

[Frank]

That is true... however I dont think it was his fault. I think it was really the quaife. Of course the crack in the quaife was just something they found when he cracked the case at the intermediate shaft bearing and was spilling more oil then a capsised tanker.


Frank

[Dave]

Here's a video: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/ph...o=3463&cat=567

Greg - yeh know, that's a great idea. Quick spool up, always on the setting (except for air density changes). I might have to try that. I'll loosen it a bit first, because I saw 24psi last night.

Anyone know if I can dial in my cut-out raiser using an air tank?? I want it at 22psi. That gives me about 1.99psi to spike/creep.

Simon - I know the head's my bottle neck. And damnit I should've had it ported but I was too impatient. I ended up using the same damn head that apparently has cracks in it and one dropping valve guide. Oops.

[DeckSetter]

the cracked head won't exactly help your spooling either. If your cylinder won't hold pressure you're turbine isn't going to see as much pressure as it normally would.

We should start a cracked head club. You, Simon, and me have all come up with cracked heads inside a week.

[unluckyty]

Bryan,
What was your 1/8 mile time/mph?

[Dave]

Bryan,
What was your 1/8 mile time/mph?

Run 1:
60'-2.404
1/8-9.715 @ 77.72mph
1/4-14.754 @ 97.41mph

Run 2:
60'-2.143
1/8-8.998 @ 78.39mph
1/4-14.0009 @ 98.3 So close!

Run 3:
60'-2.165
1/8-9.130 @ 77.82mph
1/4-14.162 @ 97.58mph

The puck must've held a little better the 2nd run.