Motor is done. Car won't start.

[turbo84voyager]

Are the plugs getting wet? If you cant get a noid light what I have done in situations where I did not have one on me, check for 12 volts and if you have it, spray a little carb cleaner in the throttle body and see if it tries to start. If it tries to start, chances are it does not have pulse. The tach not moving makes me think cam sensor. As stated earlier, make sure you did not bend any pins. Even with the weather tight connectors many people think you cant bend a connector. You can. I bent the crank sensor pin on a Subaru once after doing head gaskets. Plug snapped right in. I removed it, bent it back and all was good.

[LarryMayes]

I removed the spark plugs, one at a time, and could smell fuel in the cylinders. I'm assuming the injectors are pulsing, but I guess I could be wrong. Going to re-install the oil pan this weekend. Removed it because I had a minor anti-freeze leak that ate the paint on it. If everything goes as planned I might try to start it on Sunday.

[LarryMayes]

Got everything grounded. No start. Pulled all four plugs, got fuel in all cylinders. Gonna test for compression and swap out the ECU for the stock one. The OBD scanner comes up with no codes. Tried the forward-backward thing with the key and it comes up with one code. Don't remember exactly how it was worded but something like "too many key cycles with no start". This is really throwin' my mind for a loop and discouraging at the same time. A friend of mine told me I should take the motor out & put in a Hemi. That's been sounding better lately. LOL

Later,
Larry Mayes

[Force Fed Mopar]

Did you check if the coil pack and cam sensor plugs got switched?

[LarryMayes]

Yup, checked every plug connected to every sensor, three times. I have all the wiring diagrams and I checked the connectors against the diagrams. Everything is connected the way it should be and all the sensors are new.

Thanks,
Larry Mayes

[Force Fed Mopar]

Bad computer? Are you getting power to the computer?

[LarryMayes]

I have the Mopar Performance computer in the car. When I turn the key on I get the same hi-pitch noise out of it that I got when I was driving the car ten years ago. I sold my stock computer a few years ago (oops.) so I'm gonna get one from my local Mopar only scrap yard.

Later,
Larry Mayes

[glhs571]

I know you said all your sensors were brand new but it may be worth a shot swapping out the Cam position sensor for the hell of it. I know they are faulty pretty frequently. Heck my moms PT "GT" has went through three CPS's in 6 years...obviously it's a different setup than yours, but you get the picture.

[LarryMayes]

Need to know if an automatic trans. computer will work in a manual trans. car? I know there is one wire used in an auto trans. computer for the park/neutral switch. Since I can't find a cheap MTX computer thought I'd try an ATX.

Thanks in advance,
Larry Mayes

[LarryMayes]

Got an update:

1) The Tachometer bounces between 500 & 2000 rpm's when I'm trying to start it.
2) I took a look in the throttle body and there is a puddle of fuel in the bottom of the intake.
3) Could it possibly be bad fuel?

Later,
Larry Mayes

---------- Post added at 08:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:43 AM ----------

Got an update:

1) Tach bounces between 500 & 2000 rpm when trying to start.
2) Took a look down the throttle body. There is a puddle of fuel in the bottom of the intake.
3) Could it possibly be bad fuel?

Later,
Larry Mayes

[ShelGame]

Need to know if an automatic trans. computer will work in a manual trans. car? I know there is one wire used in an auto trans. computer for the park/neutral switch. Since I can't find a cheap MTX computer thought I'd try an ATX.

Thanks in advance,
Larry Mayes

The ATX computer should run an MTX car - however, if the P/N switch wire isn't grounded, it may not start at all. I know on the older TM's, there is no issue simply swapping in a AT computer, but check your wiring.

---------- Post added at 09:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:05 AM ----------

Got an update:

1) Tach bounces between 500 & 2000 rpm when trying to start.
2) Took a look down the throttle body. There is a puddle of fuel in the bottom of the intake.
3) Could it possibly be bad fuel?

Later,
Larry Mayes

Could be bad fuel, but there shouldn't be a puddle of fuel in the intake. Have you checked the TPS voltage?

[LarryMayes]

Haven't checked the TPS voltage yet. Is it possible to install it upside-down? I have a Venom Perf. fuel rail, Indy intake, Modern Perf. throttle body and stock injectors. There are two sensors on the throttle body, I'm wondering if I have the plugs flip-flopped between the two. Also not sure why there's a puddle of fuel in the bottom of the intake.

Later,
Larry

---------- Post added at 09:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:38 AM ----------

By the way, I don't have the heater, A/C, or air bags hooked up either. Don't think this will make a difference but figured I'd throw it out there anyway.

LM

[A.J.]

Got an update:

1) The Tachometer bounces between 500 & 2000 rpm's when I'm trying to start it.
2) I took a look in the throttle body and there is a puddle of fuel in the bottom of the intake.
3) Could it possibly be bad fuel?

Later,
Larry Mayes[COLOR="Silver"]

Does this this have a socketed computer and a custom cal? It sounds like you have either a bad computer, the wrong cal loaded, or the chip is in backwards. Those symptoms happened to me the other day when I plugged my Ostrich into my van and I had a different tune on it and tried to start it. Tach bounced all over the place and once I had the correct cal in it I had to hold the pedal to the floor to start it because it was flooded.

[LarryMayes]

I have the Mopar Performance computer in it now with no other add-ons. Gonna try to find a stock computer (sold the original one three years ago) and see if that helps.

LM

[LarryMayes]

Currently waiting on the stock computer that I sold 3 years ago to come back. I got in touch with the guy who bought it and he still has it (yipee)! When it comes back gonna throw it in and give yet another try. Really hope it starts this time, getting tired of pushing the car around.

Later,
Larry Mayes

[phantomrt]

Go back to basics. An engine needs three things to run.

1.) Compression. Easy to check. May as well do all four cylinders. Make sure it has it. Even a new, not-broken-in engine should make 140+ PSI. If they're all around, say, 100 PSI, then the cam timing is likely off, which will cause a no-run condition.

2.) Fuel. You say the spark plugs smell like gas, so that would suggest that is okay. With all this cranking, if it is getting fuel, the plugs could foul themselves out and cause you to chase your tail. It shouldn't hurt to disconnect the injectors and try starting fluid just to see if it'll even pop, after cleaning the plugs of wet fuel if necessary.

3.) Spark at the right time. I do not believe that I saw any test where the spark plug was removed, grounded, and then cranked to see if there is a bright, brilliant spark. I may have just missed the post though. To check to see if it is firing at the right time, bust out the old school timing light. You may have to make your own timing marks on the timing belt cover and crank pulley, but it is do-able. Make sure the spark plug wires aren't switched around.

Do these cars not have a magnet on the camshaft that triggers the cam position sensor? Any chance that it has a crack in it and is broken? Or missing?

Check all these, and then get back to us.

[Force Fed Mopar]

They do have a magnet, and I think they can go bad. I have seen computers go bad too.

[LarryMayes]

Does anyone think the motor is flooding itself out? And if so, what could be the cause of it? To check for spark I clamped a timing light to all four plug wires (one at a time) and the light flashed when I cranked the motor. This is really bumming me out. $4000 into a motor and all it is right now is a paper weight.

Later,
Larry Mayes

[LarryMayes]

Well, my Chrysler connection is coming over to my house 7/6/13. He's gonna bring along a "DRB" and all the necessary tools/testers to hopefully figure out why my little roller skate won't run. If we can get it running we're gonna bleed the brakes too and I might actually be able to drive it. Yahoo!! Last time I drove it was around ten years ago so I figure it's about time. I'll send a new post Monday 7/8/13 with an update. Thanks again to everyone who offered tips & suggestions.

Later,
Larry Mayes

[LarryMayes]

Well, here it is in a nutshell. Timing on the intake cam was 180 deg. off. We got all that set right, checked compression, and found zero compression on cylinder one. Two, three & four had 160 lbs. Now I have to take the head off and see if the intake valves and/or piston got damaged at all. THis is not what I wanted to see. (Completely bummed). Just thought I'd sent out an update to the continuing no-start saga.

Later,
Larry Mayes