Hey all,
Got a 1998 Neon R/T coupe. Got the motor rebuilt with plenty of go-fast parts. Trouble is that it won't start. Got fuel pressure, spark, and compression. I'm really stumped on why it won't start. The computer isn't giving me any codes either. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Larry Mayes
Check timing?
My crystal ball says cam sensor.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
Who rebuilt it? Who put the timing belt on? I would triple check cam timing, as many have got it wrong. Try not to keep cranking it over otherwise you'll glaze the rings.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
I doubt timing is off. If it is off it is maybe a tooth or so. DOHC is a interference engine. If it was way off he would crank and it would be done. My bet is cam or crank sensor as well.
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Let me add this. When cranking over to you get a tach bounce?
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Tach doesn't move at all. I had the bottom end assembled by Best Machine in Michigan. I assembled the top end by myself by following all the books.
---------- Post added at 02:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:28 PM ----------
All the internals on the motor are brand new. As is all the sensors. The magnet for the cam sensor is installed right too. I double checked it. And the cam pos. sensor plug and coil plug are not swapped. Checked that too.
Crank sensor?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Nintendo trick time... pull the ECU connector, blow on it, plug it back in...
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
I have been told by a few people that it might be a grounding issue (or lack of ground). This weekend I'm gonna get out my meter and check for continuity between the body / frame and engine block / head. I also replaced the crank sensor, again, and that didn't help.
Yep, I'm going to go with a ground problem. I've had several new builds do this and it always turns out to be a bad ground. Take them all off, clean the hell out of them, put it back together. Also, make sure you check your clutch switch/neutral safety switch and wiring especially if you have messed with or changed any wiring. Good Luck
I would also check for bent pins in all the connections, I have seen bent pins on the stock style coil from somebody in a hurry replacing it.
Cam sensor and coil pack plugs switched? Seriously, it is possible, seen (and fixed) it before.
Did some pokin' around on the motor over the weekend. Realized that the valve cover was not grounded. Noise supressor and coil are connected to it. Don't know if the missing ground is significant or not but gonna ground it anyway. Have a 4 gauge wire from the battery terminal to the frame. Also gonna run a 4 gauge from the trans. to the frame and the block to the frame. Hopefully that will solve this problem.
Later,
Larry Mayes
Original 2.0L or 2.4 swap?
How's Best Machine doing? They built the bottom end in my Daytona, 6 years ago - still going strong...
Valve cover grounded to cyl. head with a ground braid. Negative side of battery is grounded to frame (4 gauge) and block (8 gauge) close to starter. Trans. is grounded to frame (4 gauge) as is back of block on pass. side to frame (4 gauge). Let me know if I missed anything.
Thanks,
Larry Mayes
Are there any grounds on the engine portion of the wiring harness? Double check those. I don't recall Neons specifically as I've never had one apart, but I know our 2.2/2.5 motors have a ground on the injector harness and if it's not bolted to the intake manifold, the car will not run.
Also, do you have a scan tool with datastream feature? You can check for a crank sensor signal when cranking the engine.
Pete Faggella 03 PT Cruiser, 2.4L N/A 5 speed. Daily driver. All stock with baby moon wheels. 85 LeBaron 2.2TBI auto. Hoped I'd see a difference with bumped compression, but I didn't. Still slow. "Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow! What a Ride!'"
The OP never said whether or not he had injector pulse. He said he had fuel pressure, spark, and compression but if the injectors aren't opening than fuel pressure means nothing.
How do I check for injector pulse? Also, in regards to my previous post, is the motor grounded enough now?
You check injector pulse with a noid light. You could use a lest light in a pinch but you stand the chance of burning out the injector driver in the computer if out don't use a light with the correct resistance. You check the injector plug for 1) Constant 12 volts positive and 2) The ground side "pulse" from the computer that turns the injector on and off.
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