1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
like a dual plane intake on a small block chevy/ford...Another method is tuning half of the runners to a different length to spread out the powerband
One thing is for sure, after riding in a friends van I'll ALWAYS be adding a ported big plenum intake manifold before even a big ported head. I've always used a 2 piece and ported them completely with the head and the exhaust manifold. Around 20% across the board in flow, with manifolds on the head, on the flow bench. It makes a serious difference. My friend now has a heavy ported head with bigger valves and a ported exhaust manifold with the ATP SV for real nice flow on the exhaust. Then he added a 1 piece, that murders my heads on the flow bench. I can't hardly tell it has any more head than the stocker, NO JOKE! As bad as the seats and valves were in the last head I don't know that the little bit of change is just compression LMAO.
With stock plenum and porting with the TB bolted up I get 168 with a 2 piece and a big valve head, add a plenum and more porting and it goes up slightly top 175. Add a 1 piece and no TB bolted on and it drops to a wopping 140. A stock 782 setup with 1 piece flows only 122 CFM on the intake. A mild ported head like a +1 valve port job will keep up with a ported 2 piece, you end up balanced nicely.
Another thought I had, had mind you was that a great low lift flowing head would really help with a poor intake. More flow under the max of the intake right? Not much...
When it comes right down too it the intake is just a pipe, like an exhaust pipe. If you have some tiny little stray your pushing through no volume. A big pipe just moves more air than the little pipe. This is why I stopped doing the small ports a while back. Yes with a tall floor and a flow bench pulling air into an engine the design looks better. But the thing feeding this port needs to be bigger than what we have. So as some may not want the 655 port, you should be opening the other heads that far to get more intake flow.
Another eye opener to power making in the intake should be Shadows engine, where he sectioned and lowered the floors of a 1 piece to make a larger runner cross section than a 2 piece. Again a TON of work lol. But that makes the more power than what was believed possible with a +1 valve head and factory exhaust manifold ported out. People should really consider how important the intake is when spending money, a $1200 head turns into a $120 Ebay head with a 1 piece bolted on, no joke! But then again I wouldn't buy a set of Indy SR heads and bolt on a motor home stock TQ setup either lol. Every other hobby bolts a better intake on before major head work except the TD group....
So what you mean is that shadow lowered the floor in the intake as well as lowered the floor in the head. But kept the same dimensions just more area correct. Some of my drawings for a intake designs has the runners running straight into the head. No curves or anything. Straight shot. I also have an idea for the injector bungs in my intake. But haven't gotten that far yet. I should be doing my custom intake here within about a month or so.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
On another forum there are some threads on injector placement, and one of the things found is that higher injector placement made better power everywhere, but transient fueling was very hard to get right.
So should I put itb's on my turbo Omni? JDM style. Or maybe put a few itb's on the intake side of the turbo. That may work. Get that baaaaaaaaabumbaaaaaaa sound out if it.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
I don't laugh at true Honda guys. You know the guys that get ridiculous power out of there small engines. If anything we should learn off of what they do.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Mike Marra
1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
Project Log:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=
Agreed they do. But you can still use a lot of there same principles.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
Oh so do I without a doubt. I was just speaking in general. True Honda guys are quite smart and know there stuff.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]43560[/ATTACH
]My intake manifold, built back before SDAC 13 flowed a few days ago on the head from my GTC:
.100" - 72.67
.200" - 109.65
.300" - 140.88
.400 " 161.92
.500" - 181.05
.550" - 186.78
.600" - 186.78.
Very encouraging & flowed only cylinder #3. I later found out when mounted to a different cylinder head that I have a problem in cylinders #3 & #4 as flow drops a lot. I need to perform some tests to see if I can get the air to turn better into those cylinders. It ran great as the car was quick and fast, but this leaves me wondering if there was more in it.
Steve Menegon
1989 T2 GTC (Sledgehammer)
11.872@120.21
1987 Shelby Lancer #574 - 13.79@104.65
2005 SRT4 ACR (Mamba) 12.612@110.96 (Now Junk)
2016 200S (The Silver Billet) 14.70@92.7
Stock one-piece on a ported 445:
.100" - 72.67
.200" - 109.65
.300" - 133.87
.400" - 147.26
.500" - 154.91
.550" - 156.18
Same head with ported one-piece.
.100" - 72.67
.200" - 110.93
.300" - 137.79
.400" - 154.91
.500" - 164.46
.550" - 165.75
I will try to get a stock two-piece on for comparison in the next day or so.
Steve Menegon
1989 T2 GTC (Sledgehammer)
11.872@120.21
1987 Shelby Lancer #574 - 13.79@104.65
2005 SRT4 ACR (Mamba) 12.612@110.96 (Now Junk)
2016 200S (The Silver Billet) 14.70@92.7
What a great thread. Thanks for all the work guys.
---------- Post added at 02:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:42 PM ----------
[/COLOR] I wonder if we could get Rob (Shadow) to post up some pics of his one-piece while it was opened up under construction. I think I remember seeing them once.
I know on my last iterration of my two piece, had I realized how much work it was going to be to get enough C/Sec. out of it to match what the head needed,(it now has a wall thickness of aprox .030-.060 in most area's) I would have started from scratch. I still would have used the same length runners, but I could have made them straight.
I'm just too lazy anymore to buid a new plenum, and ITB's. I think I can reach my 700HP goal with the set-up I have now.
One thing I have learend with ITB's, you can get away with WAY more cam duration and still have nice idle and part throttle driveability.
I'm having another mech. roller ground with 3 more deg. duration, on a tighter 112 LSA, still .605 lift. The GTX 3582R, with 82AR should flow at 1:1 P/R.
I hope this is still somewhat on topic[COLOR="Silver"]
best 1/8 ET-6.16 sec. best 1/8 speed-119.70 Best 1/4 MPH 145.5, Best 1/4 ET 9.65 sec. 8 valve NO NITROUS!!
I'm suprised your runners appear to be longer than factory.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but with your intake port measurement of about 3.5 inches and when I cut up a 1 piece, I got just over 9 inches along the short side of the runner. Add them together and we're almost at a foot and you went with just over 13 inches?
Weird stuff for sure if that's true. I cut about 3 inches off my runner length and thought the top end was far better than stock.