ok i got a problem

[paduster]

I bought a brand new distributor, stock and blaster 2 coils, turbovanman's Aurora and Advanced Auto wires, 3 different types and heat ranges of plugs, fixed/cleaned all wiring grounds, 3 different computers (1 manual, 2 auto), changed literally every sensor on the motor at least once, and still stumbled at ~2800 RPM. I gave up and went MSII in the middle of winter with no heat or garage...that's how much it bothered me. I swear its not the OCD.

---------- Post added at 02:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:54 AM ----------



^^^What he said x1,000,000,000 or so^^^

well i have a ms1 that ran 87turbodances car so i might just have to put that on the car in the middle of winter lol

[RoadWarrior222]

Well there's an ignition recipe that works, (functional) stock coil, ngk or autolite wires, champion copper plugs.... virtually nothing improves much on this, "trick" parts may actually make it run worse.

Okay, there's some "feels like it does something" effect for a mustang coil mounted to block/head or plenum... but that could be that that coil sucks unless you do that...

Some of the "high output" coils are "high output" for points/breaker ignition systems that came with 16-25 kV stock, so a 30 kV coil is hot stuff (and burns your points out quicker) whereas the chryco electronic ignition coil is 35-40kV in the first place.

[paduster]

well i think i figured out my stumble i had to change the rad in my car so when i was doing that i figured i would change some sensors to see if it fixed the problem and when i ordered the rad from rock auto i also ordered the tps sensor as it seemed to get worse passed a certain throttle so i figured why not it was cheap and i already did the o2 sensor. and changing the tps fixed my stumble it runs perfect now.

but i got another question as with the new rad i always thought it was cause the rotted out fins on the original rad kept it from cooling with the fan on but i have found that the fan doesnt turn on till the gauge is almost to hot and where i dont feel comfortable leaving it run. so i am thinking that i should change the coolant temp sensor next and see if the fan turns on at a lower temp. what do you guys think

[RoadWarrior222]

Fan normally cuts in at over 3/4 gauge deflection, more like 7/8 and drops out around half. If it drops fairly quick when the fan turns on, it's probably fine. It can be a bit disconcerting staring at the gauge thinking "is it gonna turn on? is it gonna turn on?"

[paduster]

well it does drop pretty fast now so i guess i will just leave it i guess

[Ondonti]

I thunk I got rid of a stumble in the Voyager, by mixing and matching the best parts out of 3 used dizzies.

I'm getting awful at remembering what I did and why. In my case, I think it also had a rough/uneven idle at the time which is primarily why I was messing with the diz. it was something to do with the optical pickup and something to do with the lash in the diz shaft.

Matt Winkle told me the reason why and of course I don't remember because it doesn't bother me. Something with the optical pickup. Probably new ones can have it but he said it was mostly worn units. Maybe some "new" parts are "used." I almost never hit that rpm (it only happens at part throttle) because I feel like I am beating on the motor needlessly. I think its just the exhaust note sounding too aggressive when in reality its a perfectly reasonable rpm.

I bought a brand new distributor, stock and blaster 2 coils, turbovanman's Aurora and Advanced Auto wires, 3 different types and heat ranges of plugs, fixed/cleaned all wiring grounds, 3 different computers (1 manual, 2 auto), changed literally every sensor on the motor at least once, and still stumbled at ~2800 RPM. I gave up and went MSII in the middle of winter with no heat or garage...that's how much it bothered me. I swear its not the OCD.

---------- Post added at 02:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:54 AM ----------



^^^What he said x1,000,000,000 or so^^^

Its always the OCD

Fan normally cuts in at over 3/4 gauge deflection, more like 7/8 and drops out around half. If it drops fairly quick when the fan turns on, it's probably fine. It can be a bit disconcerting staring at the gauge thinking "is it gonna turn on? is it gonna turn on?"

I think our gauges all have some error in them depending on the resistance through the system. My silver turbo Spirit always reads 1/3 and my auto 3.0 reads 1/2 and both read over half when the thermostat opens. My Duster's cluster reads ridiculous 18 volts when running. Spirits read more reasonably. I think the Dusters gas guage is too generous as well.

well i think i figured out my stumble i had to change the rad in my car so when i was doing that i figured i would change some sensors to see if it fixed the problem and when i ordered the rad from rock auto i also ordered the tps sensor as it seemed to get worse passed a certain throttle so i figured why not it was cheap and i already did the o2 sensor. and changing the tps fixed my stumble it runs perfect now.

but i got another question as with the new rad i always thought it was cause the rotted out fins on the original rad kept it from cooling with the fan on but i have found that the fan doesnt turn on till the gauge is almost to hot and where i dont feel comfortable leaving it run. so i am thinking that i should change the coolant temp sensor next and see if the fan turns on at a lower temp. what do you guys think

I have never purchased a new sensor cause them is expensive!!!! No matter how much money I make I would feel robbed :P Rather buy 3 used and test lol. If you are still having bad luck, it could be ECU. I have an ecu that must have corrupted the tune at 2050 rpms because I have a bad stumble there on one of my ECU's that I stopped using last year. Running Joe's ECU now