ok i got a problem

[paduster]

ok so my lebaron motor decided to take a big crap on me this past week. its popping though the intake and went though almost all the water it had in it in like 3 days. did a leak down test and number 5 will not hold any pressure at all and i think its coming out of intake and rad so defiantly head cracked so i have a few options. but deciding factor is money i just got a job after being outta work for a while so money is very tight. i have almost everything to rebuild a 3.0 top to bottem even with 10:1 pistons and chrome rings. but the set of heads i had came off a motor that was "rebuilt" by an idiot they said it was ready to rund but i found allot of bolts missing even out of the oil pump . so when it has a bolt broken off in the cam caps and one in the exhaust i know i would want them checked and milled flat but i belive the last time i had that done at my local machine shop they wanted 200 for just milling them flat. so i could send them out and get them fixed and just do a head swap. or i could look for a good running motor out of a junkyard last time i bought one they wanted 375 for one. now this is the crazy one. i have a ms1 that i can put in the car and i can get my hands on a 6g74 out of a wrecked van that that has 70000 miles and compression tests good but wont start no fuel pump it was hit right on it and i thing it either broke a wire or broke the pump and they will sell it for 300 but i would have to come up with something for the exhaust. now i have a welder and all that but would just be some money i would have to put into it to be able to run it cant go open manifold that would just be crazy loud lol. i would love to do the swap but i think the money evolved would end up being allot more than i can get up quick. so please help me make up my mind what to do.

[RoadWarrior222]

I was pondering a lazy way...
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh......&highlight=

But you can also buy long studs so could grind lug holes off a manifold that the port holes line up for and use a backer plate to clamp it on with, with long studs.... wouldn't do a dirt rally with that, but should hold it on pretty good.

One can also slap something together pretty quick with some bends, U-clamps, tube expander and a tube of muffler cement (helps to seal up) doesn't look pretty, will weigh a bit more, but can do the job.

[paduster]

well if i do do the 6g74 i would make an exaust outta a kit from manderlbends.com or what ever colubia rivers web site is now lol not the first time i did one lol so the whole fabricatiing part i dont have a problem with but it means spening more money on miterals lol. but if i do it that route i can put a 10:1 motor together with all the good parts i have for the sohc 6g72 that we all have and try and sell it and recover some money that way cause i have like i said almost everything for the rebuild but i am worried about the heads needing allot of mechining and i do not trust the kid that rebuilt it when i took it apart it was missing so many bolts it was crasy and he said he lapped the valves in so who knows he may have screwed them up to lol not that i couldnt have them fixed but i want something i can drop in and know will work.

on another question would the stock fuel pump be able to supply enough fuel for the 6g74

[RoadWarrior222]

I think it's good for a 6G74 in stock form, but not if you boost it. I seem to be thinking it craps out about 250HP, but can't remember where I saw that. It's the same as the 4 banger turbo pumps so someone here should know what they're good for.

[paduster]

by the way the motor i am talking about is the dohc 6g74. and the more i am thinking about it it might just go that route cause i cant seem to find a 3.0 12v sohc and i can find these 6g74 a dime a dozen right now and i just got off the phone my local machine shop wants 275 for the 2 bolts being removed and them being milled flat so the 300 dollar motor is sounding better and better even though i would need to do something with the exhaust and i would have to figure out the ms now rather than later.

sao with that being said i just bought the ms and its been in the box since i bought it. it was 87turbodances ms out of his spirit i think it was with the 3.0 auto. so i would need to do something along the wasted spark set up he sold me with it but i cant figure out what wires i need to use there and really never messed with ms before so i am going to need allot of help

first thing is first i gotta figure out all of what i need to make this motor work and get a parts list going cause i need this to come along quickly

while here goes the list that i know i need to get this up and running

1. i need a new rad the one in the car was looking like the fins was just falling out then and that was a year and a half ago lol

2. i need to get exhaust parts ordered to make a y pipe to mate with the stock exhaust

3. the motor i will buy this i think first since i need to be able to find what size pipe i need to buy for the y pipe

4. some steel stock is going to be needed to build a passenger side motor mount

please help me with this list cause if i move forward with this i want to get all the parts needed to make it run before i even take one bolt out of the car

[RoadWarrior222]

Might get some clues in Ed's V6 drag week build thread, because he switched to this motor later on, try from about page 20 maybe a bit further back.

[paduster]

i am going dohc not the sohc motor i have been following his since he started that thread lol before he even swapped motors. but i know hat i am going to do as far as the mechanical stuff i am unsure of the ms and really need help with it lol i think i need to download the megamanual and reread it cause i dont remember much of it since the first time i read it was when i first got on these forums and found out about them in 08

[c2xejk]

On the existing engine, could be just a blown headgasket. So far I have only heard of one person that has cracked a head... Around here, used cylinder heads are available. I can usually get them from a full service yard for under $100. Milling is generally $35-45/head. More if they are milling for an MLS gasket (smoother surface needed.)

Yes I put a SOHC 6g74 in; however, I don't think it is much different from the DOHC (IF you have the engine bay space.) This will be the longer route because there will be a lot of fabrication work. What is your timeline for getting the car back up and running?

As far as putting the engine in, the only engine mount that needs to be fabricated is the passenger-side one. Depending on your timeline for getting this done, I might be able to replicate the one I have on my car...

For the exhaust, running the pipes under the car has yet to be shown to be a viable option... Just not enough room. Likely you will have to loop them over the transmission like on the 12v.

For hooking up to an MS, the "easiest" method would be to use the stock crank trigger (I am assuming that it has the same 3-blade crank wheel mine does.) Set it up in trigger return mode you would for running off the 12v distributor.

[paduster]

i have crack both heads on an old motor in my old 4 door sundance lol and it is acting worse than that ever did and when i do the leakdown test i get air coming out the intake so its either a cracked head or a messed up intake valve plus i went from full water to almost empty in 3 days and it isnt in the oil either so it could be the bad headgasket for that but the intake part is what leads me to belive i either need to rebuild them or replace them and my machine shop already gave me a price of 275 to have the heads i have checked and the 2 bolts fixed

now i have a set of heads but i got them off a guy that had some parts i needed for the 5 speed swap i did on the lebaron vert i got a whole other motor too lol but when i looked at this motor half and i mean half the bolts was missing even out of the oil pump. and the heads look ok but one has 2 broken bolts one in the exhaust and the other in the cam cap and there really is no time limit on this other than money wise i need to buy everything my roommates have been driving me around anyway cause i lost my license. and i am a decent fabricator so i would be making everything myself anyway

and if that is the case looks like i will need to ditch the abs brakes anyone know if i can just run new line and bypass the abs module under the battery box to have room for exhaust

[RoadWarrior222]

Well if you've got time and no money, you can scrounge an offcut of "corian" counter top or similar stonelike stuff, granite or whatever, set it up level on a bench, spraymount some sheets of good quality paper on it, and hand lap the head.... buuut that will probably cost 20 in materials.

---------- Post added at 02:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 PM ----------

Oh, think everything is different on an ABS car, have to do a full conversion, can't just delete stuff or patch it.

[c2xejk]

i have crack both heads on an old motor in my old 4 door sundance lol and it is acting worse than that ever did and when i do the leakdown test i get air coming out the intake so its either a cracked head or a messed up intake valve plus i went from full water to almost empty in 3 days and it isnt in the oil either so it could be the bad headgasket for that but the intake part is what leads me to belive i either need to rebuild them or replace them and my machine shop already gave me a price of 275 to have the heads i have checked and the 2 bolts fixed

If when you do a leakdown test the air is coming out of the intake, then it is either a bad intake valve or a blown headgasket (leak to an adjacent cylinder).

[paduster]

yea true well i might just tear it down when i have a few days off and see what i come up with

[paduster]

well i forgot to update but this past weekend i decided to check and see if it was just the headgaskets and tore into it. thanks ed for convincing me. i found i blew out the fire ring in between 1 and 3 so i cleaned it all up and put it back together with a fresh tune up and it is running good but still has a weird stumble at around 3000 was thinking it would be a bad distributor and was thinking of buying a new one from rockauto. do you think that would fix it?

[Ondonti]

I make a point of ignoring that stumble for the rest of my life.

[paduster]

the only reason i aint now is cause it has no power above it at all. when i got the the car it was like the others that i had but now its starting to take power away from above it too it have more power from what i think is 2500 to 3000 than it does to what i think is 5000 and i say i think cause the tach in this car never worked.

[nmw2006]

Every 3.0L I've ever driven or worked on has that stupid stumble...except for mine with the MSII...I'm glad you got it running fairly quickly/easily. I changed everything I could think of on my old 3.0L Spirit, nothing helped. I'm convinced it's caused by the computer. Changing tables or timing or something RPM related.

[RoadWarrior222]

I thunk I got rid of a stumble in the Voyager, by mixing and matching the best parts out of 3 used dizzies.

[paduster]

thats what i am thinking is just getting a whole new one u can buy them on rockauto for like 120 i think

[nmw2006]

I bought a brand new distributor, stock and blaster 2 coils, turbovanman's Aurora and Advanced Auto wires, 3 different types and heat ranges of plugs, fixed/cleaned all wiring grounds, 3 different computers (1 manual, 2 auto), changed literally every sensor on the motor at least once, and still stumbled at ~2800 RPM. I gave up and went MSII in the middle of winter with no heat or garage...that's how much it bothered me. I swear its not the OCD.

---------- Post added at 02:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:54 AM ----------

I make a point of ignoring that stumble for the rest of my life.

^^^What he said x1,000,000,000 or so^^^

[RoadWarrior222]

I'm getting awful at remembering what I did and why. In my case, I think it also had a rough/uneven idle at the time which is primarily why I was messing with the diz. it was something to do with the optical pickup and something to do with the lash in the diz shaft.