Power loss light GLHS

[GLHS 160]

Hello everyone.. I am new to the board, but not the GLHS.. Little background first then I have a question.. I have owned three 1986 GLHS omni's. First one I bought new in 86, car number 110, then in the mid 90s I bought car number 355.. Around 1999 I sold them both and have been missing them since.. Recently I found another one (GLHS 160) with low miles (16K). Also has original paint and excellent interior...
The problem I am having is the the power loss light keeps kicking on with code 23.. Air charge sensor... I checked the wire connector and was getting 5.3 volts and then when I hooked a jumper to it the reading was zero volts.. I then replaced the sensor with a factory replacement (p.n. 4713483).. Disconnected the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer. Still the light kicks on, code 23.. Am I overlooking something? I would appreciate any help..
Thank you, and glad to be here.
Allen

[4 l-bodies]

Allen,
Welcome to the forum, I've been around these L-bodies since they were new too.
The black with blue tracer is sensor ground and is tied to other sensors, I would bet that is not your problem as other fault codes would probably be appearing. It's possible though. First unplug battery. Unplug blue 25 pin connector on logic module (right kick panel). #25 in pin location for black with red tracer. Longer side of two rows. Furthest from locating pin. It is last pin on long side. Check the black w/red tracer wire for continuity at the logic module connector and charge temp sensor pigtail. No continuity, repair break in wire. Also check for bad pin connector at connector. These can easily get damaged when people keep changing out logic modules. Check for corrosion. Hopefully plastic bag is still wrapped around logic module. Then move to black with light blue tracer and check for continuity there. That is red 25 pin connector # 25 also. Should be one of those. It's a simple two wire sensor. Let us know the outcome.
BTW #163 belongs to another board member. His has 16K miles too. Strange, but cool!
Todd

[supercrackerbox]

I chased that code for the longest time on my Charger (full on GLHS conversion). It did turn out to be a weak spot in the wire.

[GLHS 160]

Hi Todd, I tried what you suggested, unplugging the computer and did get continuity on both wires from the computer to the sensor plug.. Both were good.. Hooked the battery back up after reinstalling the computer, and plugged the sensor back in. I took it out for another ride and it kicked the light on again.. Showing code 23 still.. Here is some more of the story.. After I got the 5.3 volts and then zero volts using the jumper, I shut the car off and plugged the sensor back up. I disconnected the battery ground lead for a few minutes, then re installed it.. I then turned the key to check the codes.. At that time I would only get code 12, (battery disconnected). I would then crank the car and go out for a drive.. It usually threw the power loss light on within a minute. I would pull over and check the code and it was 23 again.. I would continue driving and when the temp got to normal, If the light kicked on again, which it usually did, I would just let off the gas and switch the key off for a couple seconds and then back on.. The light reset and I sometimes could drive for quite a while before it kicked on again, or it may do it in just a minute.. The car came with a Mopar stage 2 computer in the car plus the factory computer.. I did try swapping the two, but had the same results.. So I put the stage 2 one back in.. The pins and connectors look like new.. It does still have the plastic bag over the computer.. The car had a very sheltered garage life.. It was original down to the tires, belts, plug wires, ect..
Thanks again, I really appreciate the help !!!
Allen

[cordes]

Have you tried reading the voltage to the sensor by back probing it at the sensor itself while it's plugged in? You may have continuity with one tiny strand of wire left over even though that wouldn't be enough to supply the voltage necessary to get the car to run right when powered up.

There aren't any signs that Mr. Mouse may have been in the area are there? Nothing worse than a tiny nibbled area of a wiring harness.

[GLHS 160]

There have not been any critters chewing on the wiring. It still looks like fresh new connectors. I Just took some safety wire and probed the backside of the sensor plug.. With the car running it measured 2.92 volts.

Thanks again, Allen

[2.216VTurbo]

Hey Allen, welcome to TM.com. I don't have much to add to your thread about troubleshooting #160 but here is something that might interest you. This is #110 today at the Legends Of The Highway show today in Fountain Valley CA. It took in 1st class, '80's Classics' Small world eh

[black86glhs]

Allen, have you verified a good connection at the logic module? I have 86 #161, btw, and ran into this on several occasions. Not uncommon on these dodges. Basically, just gently squeeze the LM & sensor terminals so the pin fits in tighter. If you have done that, unplug every sensor that uses that ground and check resistance of the circuit from the each connector to the LM connector.
Mine is well used with 175,000+ miles on it.

[4 l-bodies]

Allen,
I would suspect you are having an intermittent issue at the logic module. I lost a couple pistons on one of my GLHT's when the detonation sensor failed to make proper connection while at WOT, so consider yourself lucky its just the charge temp sensor giving you fits. Why don't you send me your email addy to my private mail and I will scan and send you the driveabilty procedures for you. The 85 is slightly different than the 87 driveabilty procedure but it accomplishes the same thing. That would be an excellent book to buy. I see them for sale all the time on ebay. The 85 book uses a VOM for a lot of the tests, while the 87 book relies many times on you having a DRB diagnostic tool for some of the test procedures. So, I think the 85 book is better for the average person trying to diagnose problems with their vehicles.
If you have changed the charge temp sensor, and the logic modules, and still have the same issues, that leaves only the wiring/connection.
Todd

[GLHS 160]

Hey Allen, welcome to TM.com. I don't have much to add to your thread about troubleshooting #160 but here is something that might interest you. This is #110 today at the Legends Of The Highway show today in Fountain Valley CA. It took in 1st class, '80's Classics' Small world eh

Hi Alan !!! You have now idea how long I have looked for car #110..... I am so glad its in good hands and still on the road.... Soon as I read your post I yelled for my wife to come see this. We dated and got married with "that" car 26 years ago... I have soooooooo many stories about that car... It has won so many SCCA races,to include "fastest time of day" awards out of over 50 cars sometimes... Even more street races with 24 pounds of boost, 3 stages of Nitrous, (50-100-150 hp) I have run down many a big block on the far end of the track.. I have a lot to tell you if you have time.... By any chance you buy the car from a guy named Keith Cole ?? That was my brother in law who I sold it to cheap to get to the west coast, cuz I needed the money to add more power to my GMC Syclone truck.. He was sposed to bring it back and I was to give him his $2K back, but he never did... Said the tranny blew. Anyway, here is my number (850)814-5487 or you can send me yours if you would like to hear how fun and famous that car became here in the Southeast during the late 80s to mid 90s... Plus the numerous rebuilds of experimenting.... There was not to much factory stuff for hot rodders to buy, so we invented or made it up back then.. By the way I still have the original hood from that car in my garage... Just a little nitrous backfire... Another story... Plus, I would really like to hear more of whats been going on with the car since it left Florida.. its great to know that the car is still going strong.. Looking forward to talking with you...

Allen..

[GLHS 160]

Allen, have you verified a good connection at the logic module? I have 86 #161, btw, and ran into this on several occasions. Not uncommon on these dodges. Basically, just gently squeeze the LM & sensor terminals so the pin fits in tighter. If you have done that, unplug every sensor that uses that ground and check resistance of the circuit from the each connector to the LM connector.
Mine is well used with 175,000+ miles on it.

Did not mean to get off track, but finding out about my original GLHS made my day.. Bryan not to get to far off track again, but my car #160 came from Great Northern Dodge in North Olmsted Ohio... Notice you are in Ohio also.. ANYWAY, back to the problem I did not squeeze the pins as I did not think of that.. The Stage two computer was installed right after the Doctor bought it new and has been in it since.. I will try what your saying, but am I to disconnect the plug from the module, or try this while they are connected? I am betting its gonna be a simple problem, but right now its irritating to see the light kick on.. Does not effect the running at all.. I really appreciate all the help...

Allen

[black86glhs]

Did not mean to get off track, but finding out about my original GLHS made my day.. Bryan not to get to far off track again, but my car #160 came from Great Northern Dodge in North Olmsted Ohio... Notice you are in Ohio also.. ANYWAY, back to the problem I did not squeeze the pins as I did not think of that.. The Stage two computer was installed right after the Doctor bought it new and has been in it since.. I will try what your saying, but am I to disconnect the plug from the module, or try this while they are connected? I am betting its gonna be a simple problem, but right now its irritating to see the light kick on.. Does not effect the running at all.. I really appreciate all the help...

Allen

That is where mine came from. Doctor? Did you buy it from a guy named Macenga or Mecanga who lived in Medina Ohio? Sorry to get off track too, but this is interesting.
As for the terminals, disconnect either the blue or red(don't remember which one it is in) and do it then. Just don't crush them. You just want it to be a tighter fit. Hopefully this is it. Soon after I got mine, the LM went south and started spitting out codes, so I got another one. I have been through this, like others here, a couple times.

[2.216VTurbo]

Hi Alan !!! You have now idea how long I have looked for car #110..... I am so glad its in good hands and still on the road.... Soon as I read your post I yelled for my wife to come see this. We dated and got married with "that" car 26 years ago... I have soooooooo many stories about that car... It has won so many SCCA races,to include "fastest time of day" awards out of over 50 cars sometimes... Even more street races with 24 pounds of boost, 3 stages of Nitrous, (50-100-150 hp) I have run down many a big block on the far end of the track.. I have a lot to tell you if you have time.... By any chance you buy the car from a guy named Keith Cole ?? That was my brother in law who I sold it to cheap to get to the west coast, cuz I needed the money to add more power to my GMC Syclone truck.. He was sposed to bring it back and I was to give him his $2K back, but he never did... Said the tranny blew. Anyway, here is my number (850)814-5487 or you can send me yours if you would like to hear how fun and famous that car became here in the Southeast during the late 80s to mid 90s... Plus the numerous rebuilds of experimenting.... There was not to much factory stuff for hot rodders to buy, so we invented or made it up back then.. By the way I still have the original hood from that car in my garage... Just a little nitrous backfire... Another story... Plus, I would really like to hear more of whats been going on with the car since it left Florida.. its great to know that the car is still going strong.. Looking forward to talking with you...

Allen..

Looking forward to catching up with you about #110, it actually has quite a history in racing after it left you. Clearly I didn't know about the street kills and big nitrous shot when you owned it but if you search "sublime green GLHS" or look at Forza's posts over the last few years, you can can glean some more info about #110 I'll be in touch via PM soon

[GLHS 160]

That is where mine came from. Doctor? Did you buy it from a guy named Macenga or Mecanga who lived in Medina Ohio? Sorry to get off track too, but this is interesting.

The Guys name is Harry Walker from Painesville Ohio.. He had many interesting cars, and the Shelby was one he drove occasionally.

[black86glhs]

The Guys name is Harry Walker from Painesville Ohio.. He had many interesting cars, and the Shelby was one he drove occasionally.

OK, different person. I'll bet he knew Dr. Mecanga, the one I bought mine from. Thanks for the info.