thanks! exactly which vehicle did you use as a reference for the seals?
---------- Post added at 08:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:50 AM ----------
i just realize i only have 28 posts and ive been a member for 2yrs...i need to send more time on this site compared to others lol! sorry for the tangent
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ve-seals.-O%29
96ford tbird i think was the application. Sealed Power #SS72891
I'll have to pick up a set of these seals as well. It looks like I'm not going to be installing the spring retainers until after the head goes back on, so I'll wait to do seals/retainers at the same time next month. Thanks for bringing this information together!
I received a Cometic/Wiseco head gasket from Chris W today. Great service, Chris went the extra mile to get the gasket to me on-time.
I've never installed an automotive MLS gasket before. I picked up a can of Permatex copper gasket spray. Do you guys install the gasket dry or do you use a spray-on gasket sealer? I know my parent's 95 Neon has an MLS gasket that was installed dry without problems. I'm thinking about using the spray since I have it, but I'm curious what other peoples' experiences have been.
I have used copper spray on mine multiple times. No issues.Originally Posted by jckrieger
Yes copper spray for sure if your block does not have a fresh deck. I would do whatever you can to get the deck as flat as you can. I use a 1/2" think by 4"x 12" piece of machined flat aluminum that I put 3M Stick-It 180 grit on and that works well for a poor mans mill lol
I'm not sure if the deck is flat, but I know the surface finish is nice. I used the proper 3M polishing wheels for the Neon MLS head gasket installation so everything has a nice surface finish. I'm not too concerned, but it'd be really nice to have this car not leak a drop of coolant. I think it has been 3 years since the cooling system was sealed 100%.
Are there any tricks for getting the old freeze plugs out of the deck of the head? My plan was to drill a small hole and try to use a screw extractor, but if there's something better let me know. I figure worst case I can just step up the drill size until the drill bit grabs it and pulls it out.
Ya with a small chisel or flat tip screwdriver pound lightly on the side of the plug to turn it 90 degrees and pull it out with a needle nose
The head is back on the car with new freeze plugs (except for the 7/16" plug since Cindy's kit was missing that size). The MLS gasket fit perfectly and the Vortech 4.3L valve cover gaskets fit better than I expected. I will say the compression on the gaskets is likely a little much, but I didn't break any tabs off the valve cover so I guess it wasn't too bad.
The factory turbo oil supply line is in very bad shape. I think I have a stainless line somewhere, but if not I'll have to find some hydraulic hose and some new EFI style clamps. If all goes well I'll have the car running tomorrow. Titanium valve retainers will come next year when it's time to check the timing belt tension after a couple thousand miles.
The car is back together and running. Unfortunately, it appears the starter is hosed. Once in the past the starter failed to engage the flywheel and made a grinding sound. Now it does it 9/10 times I start the car. It's not the flywheel, as I can turn the crank to a new position and it does the same thing. I'm guessing letting the car sit for a few weeks allowed the starter to stick.
Any recommendations? I have a spare used reman Bosch starter I'll probably throw on there and will inspect the starter that comes off the car.
Nippo starters are my favourite.
Grap an Earls line and some fittings, better than hose clamped lines.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
I'm going to try and find a Denso starter for the R/T. I'll run the reman Bosch but will make sure I have a spare on hand.
-Clark
It took about 3 hours, but I finally got the starter replaced. Getting all the airbox/hoses out of the way to access the top two bolts was a PITA. I really miss my 8V cars sometimes. The bendix on the old starter was sticky, so the starter would spin up before the gear would get a chance to engage. I might try to order a new bendix for this starter, or maybe I'll try to get a reman Denso.
I'm going to miss warm weather. The R/T feels like a truck compared to what I've been driving during the non-snow months.
You're driving the R/T in the snow?
Sadly, the R/T has been demoted to "all weather" status. I figure if I keep an eye on the underside, apply undercoating in the problem areas, and keep her clean she'll be good for at least another 10 years. By then I'll be ready for a different sedan and parts for this car will be un-heard of. There really are other sedans out there that some day deserve to be a replacement for the R/T. I'd really like to own a G37 6MT sedan some day.
Wow, that's pretty wild. I sure hope that parts are still around in 10 years though. I think I've got a lot of life left in many of my cars!
I hope parts are available too, but the T3 motor is a PITA and parts are getting more and more scarce. Plus, the parts are already prohibitively expensive. The Spirit makes 224hp, which isn't bad, but it's also not industry-leading anymore. It's hard to justify limping the engine along for another 20 years when there are better performing motors out there that don't require this kind of attention.
Many stereotypical TD'ers wouldn't even think of trying to maintain a T3. How many T3 cars get taken apart and then never get put back together? I really hate having spent ~$600 in parts for the engine this year, and then thinking about how I'll have to spend almost $1200 to put good shocks on the car next year. I've used KYB's and Monroe's, but neither of them were able to handle the spring rates when I tried them on my old Daytonas. Of course, Konis are out of production so I get to install coil-overs on the car if I don't want it to bounce down the highway when I have passengers in the car.
Certainly there will be a day when it makes sense to make the Spirit go away. I like the car, that's why I plan to drive it another ten years. At some point though, my wife will put me in the loony bin for limping this thing along. I have the most high-maintenance assortment of vehicles. Some day I'll need at least 1 "regular" car to drive around.
With all that said, I'm going to have to be careful about which car replaces the Spirit. A friend came over yesterday to replace the output shaft seal on his 2008 Impala and we noticed his year old rear tires had no tread on the inside edges. Why was the output shaft seal leaking on a 2008? Why is the car wearing the rear tires like crazy? I'd rather be replacing my head gasket or timing belt than trying to fix the rear suspension and replace tires that are less than a year old. I guess sometimes the grass is greener.
---------- Post added at 11:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:46 AM ----------
Here's a good example of why some day I'll have to change daily drivers. Since the car was new, the following parts have been replaced in 90K miles:
Intermediate shaft
Lifters
Oil Pump
Timing Belt x3
Valve cover gaskets x2
Head Gasket
Radiator
Various A/C Parts
Idler pulleys
Serpentine Belts x2
Aluminum pipe plugs for the head
Shifter Bushings
Rear Shocks
Sway Bar Bushings
Strut Mounts
Headlight lenses (not yet replaced)
Alternator
Water pump
The wife's G35 has had the following parts replaced in 90K miles:
Wheel Bearing
Hood Hinge
Serpentine Belt
Brake Pads
One vehicle seems to be less of a headache than the other...
Last edited by jckrieger; 02-11-2013 at 11:21 PM. Reason: Added more parts I have replaced
That's a pretty good comparison. Have you done the analysis on the over all cost to travel those 90K miles?
Of course if I did that analysis the Spirit would come out ahead. I didn't pay anything for it and my wife paid about 15K for the G35. The total cost of parts for her car was around $300 and the total cost for the parts for the R/T is around $1,400. The R/T gets 26-28 mpg and the G35 gets about 22-23.
Of course, if $/mile was the most important, I wouldn't be driving a turbo-dodge OR a G35. I'd have a Ford Escort or a 50cc scooter.
The R/T is faster than the G35, but the suspension is getting rough so the G35 feels more confident in the corners. The interior/build quality/power band is better on the G35 and it'd be more pleasant to drive if it had a manual transmission.
With that said, the R/T can not be replaced by a regular car. I'd take my Spirit over a newer Avenger, 200C, Impala, or basically any regular car that is frequently available at a rental car agency.
That's the real killer IMO. In 90' Chrysler made a fleet of vehicles which are perfect for me. I don't know that anyone has done so since.
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