Dry sump

[Thomas Powell]

Has anyone done this. Pics and bracket specs if you have and maybe a parts list

[440dart]

Iam also very interested in this does anybody have any exsperience with one maybe we could make one work? Iam scared after putting all this money in it and haveing it wiped out by a intermediate shaft, not that ive ever had a problem and ive never used a tensioner guage just did it by ear

[Reaper1]

The IMSA cars and the M4S "Wraith" are the only ones *I* know of that had it. At least I *think* the IMSA cars did. I know for fact the M4S did/does. I've thought about this quite a bit myself simpy the reduce windage, however, it does add a bunch of complexity and weight.

[440dart]

I know its not cost effective for most of us but iam soon doing a TIII in a super nice garage queen glhs, venolia,h-beams, blah buh blah

[rx2mazda]

I know its not cost effective for most of us but iam soon doing a TIII in a super nice garage queen glhs, venolia,h-beams, blah buh blah

Why would a "Garage Queen" need a dry sump?

[turbovanman²]

Why would a "Garage Queen" need a dry sump?

Just cause ricer,

That's on the same line as why would Carroll's car need a ported head or a big turbo?

[rx2mazda]

Just cause ricer,

That's on the same line as why would Carroll's car need a ported head or a big turbo?

Ouch! Because Race Car!

Actually it has neither anymore. I sold the turbo to a DSM friend of mine and traded my ported head/intake to Jackson for stock units and some cash. I am going with a slightly modded stock TIII with a better suspension. Should be a blast!

[turbovanman²]

Ouch! Because Race Car!

Actually it has neither anymore. I sold the turbo to a DSM friend of mine and traded my ported head/intake to Jackson for stock units and some cash. I am going with a slightly modded stock TIII with a better suspension. Should be a blast!

LMAO. That sucks, that would have been a beast but any TIII car/van is fun,

[440dart]

Why would a "Garage Queen" need a dry sump?

It spent 99.99% of its life in a garage and iam tradeing a durango r/t for it, i will finally have my dream car the car they shoulda built TIII omni glh-x2s no longer a garage queen i put about 10kmi on my cars every year hard miles no point in building them and not driveing them and not driveing them hard i got other cars i can putt around in

[rx2mazda]

It spent 99.99% of its life in a garage and iam tradeing a durango r/t for it, i will finally have my dream car the car they shoulda built TIII omni glh-x2s no longer a garage queen i put about 10kmi on my cars every year hard miles no point in building them and not driveing them and not driveing them hard i got other cars i can putt around in

OH. I misunderstood. I thought you were building it to be a garage queen. lol

[Tempted]

I had to use a dry sump on a straight axle conversion on my old GMC Sierra. Wouldn't clear the oil pan without lifting the truck, and I didn't want to lift it. It isn't that complex. Just figure out what pump you want to use. I used a belt driven accessory pump. Electric pumps are easier but fail more often. Gear to gear pumps are too noisy for me.

[shackwrrr]

They also evacuate pressure from the crankcase so you have better ring seal.

A simple 4 stage dry sump setup, 3 scavenge and one pressure. One line in center rear, and one each in front corners of oil pan. A 2 gallon tank and a remote filter, pretty simple system.

If you compare the prices of a used dry sump pump and accessories you are probably right around 1k or less. This completely eliminates all I shaft failures, improves ring seal and eliminates complicated catch can/pcv setups, no need for expensive baffled windage trays, and improves horsepower due to less windage.

[440dart]

Iam going to have to do some research but for less then 1k its something to think about to protect my investment, and carrol your car is a work of art just wrong color for me, mines going to look as stock as possible except for exhaust and wheels, thinking about useing a he351 instead of my sc61s i will send you a pm.

[shackwrrr]

Just to clarify, I am talking about using retired nascar parts aquired from ebay like this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dry-Sump-Oil-Pump-Sprint-Car-Drag-RACE-/251194855035?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item3a7c614e7b &vxp=mtr

may not be good enough for 10K rpm and big money engines anymore but Im sure its plenty to keep a sub 8k rpm engine together. Lots of them you can get new rotors. expect to pay around $3-500 for a better one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weaver-Brothers-3-stage-oil-pump-dry-sump-with-scavange-manifold-/181037939190?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item2a26b3b9f6 &vxp=mtr

the oil tank, there are many options, from a stock ls7 tank to a 5 gallon cup car unit with a heater and nifty sensors. Here is all you would need for a TIII

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPRINT-CAR-MUD-TRUCK-OFF-ROAD-8-QUART-OIL-DRY-SUMP-TANK-6-x22-TALL-W-MTG-BRKTS-/370685718552?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item564e973018 &vxp=mtr

for the lines you can go all new with -12 or -16 lines or scour ebay and find assorted lines for cheap
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DRY-SUMP-OIL-LINES-6-8-10-FITTINGS-NASCAR-ARCA-NHRA-fuel-line-an-fittings-earls-/290825281215?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &hash=item43b6899ebf&vxp=mtr

if going with dry sump, might as well go with an oberg filter, they open up allowing you to see whats in your oil and you clean them out and reinstall.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oberg-6-screen-type-oil-filter-mount-Racor-16-AN-fittings-no-screen-included-/110979678877?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item19d6e7829d &vxp=mtr

The oil pan and gilmer drive are up to you, the gilmer would be easy as making a 5 bolt plate that goes inside the factory serpentine pulley and has the gear on it. The oil pan would just require cutting the bottom off of the stock one and shortening it, Then weld in bungs where you want your pickups at. Mounting the pump would be somewhat difficult but I imagined that If I were to go dry sump, I would most likely go reverse flow electric water pump so the current water pump space would be perfect for a pump.

[440dart]

Iam a newb to dry sumps do they put a large load on the belt? the one you posted looks as if it could run off the timeing belt. Can you run one off a serpintine belt? if so it would probley fit pretty good where the a/c pump mounts but of course you would loose your a/c

---------- Post added at 01:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:11 PM ----------

some guys run a distributor off the drivers side of the head i dont see why something couldnt be made to do the same for a dry sump pump? any ideas?

[shackwrrr]

I would think keeping the pump low would be best. The suction needed to pull oil up is pretty high. A serp belt could and would slip under load. A cam drive would work pretty decent I think.

[Tempted]

Large load on the belt, kinda. Does that eat horsepower? Well yeah but it eats less than the oil pump used to eat in its stock location. Its easier to change as well.

I'd recommend a stacked crank pulley with cogs rather than using the serpentine belt. You could probably find a cogged supercharger set with both the pullies you would need.

[440dart]

could posibley make something work off the crank, or something off the cam but worried about the stress it would put on the cam not sure if it would be a problem or not. Iam could care less if it took 30hp iam more interested in keeping my engine alive a hp sacrafice for safety of my high $ engine is worth the price to me.