Purple plate and 4 or 6 puck disc?

[wallace]

Trying to decide on a clutch disc and pressure plate for my combo. 2.5, ported head, header, 2 piece, hy35 turbo, etc.

Build thread is here: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ymouth-Horizon

I believe the engine is capable of 400 hp with a bunch of torque as well. I spoke to Chris at TU and he was suggesting the purple plate and a 6 puck disc. I'd like to hear from anyone who is running the purple plate and a 6 puck or a 4 puck. I was leaning towards the 4 puck based on the threads I've read on here. There are plenty using the 4 puck but I haven't seen too many using the 6. Additionally, I have an aluminum flywheel I was going to use. I've gotten some advice that I shouldn't consider using it at the power level I believe I'll be at. Any advice or information is appreciated. Thanks.

[tryingbe]

Use the 4 punk. Always better to overkill with clutch disc than a slipping one.

[MC#4]

I'll just note that the purple plate and 6 puck is very streetable. Stock pedal effort, slip-able in traffic. Alum. flywheel might make it tricky on the street though. Don't forget you can get a slightly larger disk that adds more holding power.

[86Shelby]

I've been running the 6 puck purple plate for just under 2 years in my R/T. It is nice & streetable yet holds hard with slicks, cut several 1.8 60' in a full weight Spirit R/T. I have no complaints aside from a few tears that leaked out of my wallet when I paid.

[boost geek]

my car has the purple plate 4 puck in it ,al ways worked great@400 hp

[wallace]

The guys with the 6 puck setups how much power do you estimate you are making?

[MC#4]

The guys with the 6 puck setups how much power do you estimate you are making?

I threw the clutch in to get ready for future plans. My car was only making ~150hp before I started my current build. I Plan to be around 300hp/350tq and will be drag racing w/obx and slicks. That's why I went with the purple plate.

[turboshad]

4 or 6 puck shouldn't matter when it comes to power holding. The factors that effect that are the disc material, disc diameter and clamping force. A 4 puck will give you an advantage in quick shifts as it weighs less. I can be an advocate for the purple plate with a large diameter unsprung 4 puck. It hasn't skipped a beat for me except when I asked it to instantly go to 12000 RPM, but even after that it looks like the clutch came out unharmed.

[boost geek]

The guys with the 6 puck setups how much power do you estimate you are making?

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[tinyturbo]

Ive got a couple years on the purple plate with 4 puck disc, its a little easier to operate than the ceramic 4 puck i had previously from fwd, got around 15k miles on it now with no problems, mostly street driven with about 4-5 trips to the drag strip with about 25 passes on it ive run a best of 11.58@122 in a 2950lb laser with 25 psi boost, im sure it will get me well into the tens once i figure out how to get some kind of acceleration in the first two gears and turn the boost up.

If your using an aluminum flywheel its going to make it harder to launch as you will have no choice but to be more aggressive with the throttle to keep from bogging down when dropping the clutch since youve lost a lot of centrifical force that the heavy flywheel provides.

[wallace]

Pulled the trigger. Bought the 4 puck and purple plate.

[Reaper1]

I'm running a purple plate and a 6-puck sprung hub. VERY streetable and easy to modulate. I've only had one person try to drive my car that couldn't do it (he was too affraid to drive it like I told him and kept stalling it).

I really don't drag race too much, so I can't comment on that with this clutch.

I HAVE raced with a ceramic clutch and an aluminum flywheel in this car. That ended badly. There isn't enough contact area between the friction surface and the flywheel to correctly dissipate the heat and it can cause the clutch to overheat and slip. Been there, done that. I went back to a steel flywheel, but I'm using a TU race lightened version. I love it!

My car isn't very high on the power side, but it makes a pretty decent amount of torque and is full street weight. 225hp/291ft-lb at the wheels. Car is 3115# with me in it.

[wallace]

Cool, thanks for the info. going with a steel flywheel instead got that from Cindy.

[turbovanman²]

I wouldn't go with an aluminum flywheel, will make city driving a chore due to the lack of low rpm torque. I think Reeves swapped to one or a lighter steel one and make launching alot harder at the track.

[wallace]

I wouldn't go with an aluminum flywheel, will make city driving a chore due to the lack of low rpm torque. I think Reeves swapped to one or a lighter steel one and make launching alot harder at the track.

yeah I bought a steel flywheel from Cindy

[bfarroo]

I see you've already made your selection but for anyone else looking, I'm running the Larger 6 puck purple plate in my 91 Daytona 2.5 hybrid. Not making huge power yet but it's very streetable. I'm running over 110 in the quarter but only a 13.6. Pulls great up top but I still need to get the boost up faster. Running 24.5 x 8 R15 M&H's with no issues so far. Probably only 20-25 passes and a few thousand street miles. Spins the street tires at the top of the first 3 gears.

[trannybuster]

I'll just note that the purple plate and 6 puck is very streetable. Stock pedal effort, slip-able in traffic. Alum. flywheel might make it tricky on the street though. Don't forget you can get a slightly larger disk that adds more holding power.

Ha tricky, not quite the words Id use, took awhile to get use to, stall the car alot, still do on occasion....pita is more like it, a 2.5 would help....

[Vigo]

I drove someone elses purple/6puck and thought it was perfectly tolerable once you get used to it.

Having said that, i would recommend a 4puck because i dont think the 6 puck helps in any meaningful way and just adds disc weight which makes a difference in high rpm shifting.

I tentatively agree with DJ's unsprung recommendation as well, but ill refrain from ever being the first to put it forward as i havent owned an unsprung disc yet.

[turbodaytona87]

4 or 6 puck shouldn't matter when it comes to power holding. The factors that effect that are the disc material, disc diameter and clamping force. A 4 puck will give you an advantage in quick shifts as it weighs less. I can be an advocate for the purple plate with a large diameter unsprung 4 puck. It hasn't skipped a beat for me except when I asked it to instantly go to 12000 RPM, but even after that it looks like the clutch came out unharmed.

4 puck has more clamping force due to the lower surface area. Which breaks the skin? Standing on one nail, or standing on a bed of nails?

I daily drive a 4 puck with stock pressure plate, and its fine, but it does get tiring after a while, and slow moving traffic is annoying. HP levels are probably close to stock, but clutch was purchased for long term power goals.

[turboshad]

Clamping force comes from the PP and has nothing to do with the disc. Yes there is more pressure under the puck of a 4 puck disc but the total friction between a 4 and 6 puck disc made of the same material with the same pressure plate will be the same. If you want to think of friction in terms of pressure then remember it is all linear. So a 4 puck will have 1.5 times the pressure under the puck but .66666667 times the surface area. Pressure is force over area so to find the force you multiply the pressure by the area. If a 6 puck can hold 1lb of force with 1sqft of area and 1psi then a 4 puck will have .66666667sqft and 1.5psi. .66666667X1.5 is 1, exactly what the 6 puck was. This is why the expression for friction is Fn*mu where Fn would be the clamping force and mu is the coefficient of friction which is determined by the two materials in contact.