The hole in the 2.4 block is 8mm X 1.25. The '89 2.2/2.5 knock sensor was something else, I'm guessing 5/16 X ?.Originally Posted by Aries_Turbo
A.J.
The hole in the 2.4 block is 8mm X 1.25. The '89 2.2/2.5 knock sensor was something else, I'm guessing 5/16 X ?.
A.J.
yea i think the reason that it was said that you couldnt use the 89 sensor was cause the thread difference but if you recut the threads and it threads in tight, then you are golden.
Brian
Tell Sean to put the Goat cum muscle building juice down and help the guy out!!!!
Bryan
86 GLHS #161, 2016 Impala
SDAC National Member, SDAC Buckeye Chapter Member
A man has got to know his limitations.....
It's not so much the visual of him drinking it but how he went about getting it that's disturbing.Tell Sean to put the Goat cum muscle building juice down and help the guy out!!!!
Ya, hook a nigga up!. I'm tired of just admiring my work and would like to drive it. I am finishing up my bobble strut. I'll have pictures of it in my build thread tomorrow.
A.J.
http://www.squirrelpf.com/bucar/ecu%...f/SeansCal.zip
heres seans cal.
its for dcal and for a sbec so you may have to import the cal to view in mptuner.
Brian
Thanks. Just in time for the logic module portion of my SMEC to take a ----. I ran it yesterday and it ran great. Today I go to move it to flush the water out so I can fill it with coolant and it won't start. I have spark but no injector pulse. I'm getting power and ground to the hall effect and a signal out but I swap it anyways, nothing. I swap from my Ostrich to a chip, nothing. I reflash the chip and Ostrich, nothing. I swap power modules, nothing. I swap logic modules, we have a winner. But it's a logic module that gave me problems in another car so I don't trust it. Now I have to look for one. I'm going to post in the "parts wanted" section.
A.J.
I have several SMEC logic boards...
I'd like two so I have a back-up. How much shipped to Mesa AZ 85213.
A.J.
$75 shipped? for a pair of turbo SMEC logic boards?
PM sent.
A.J.
Hey Rob, is it possible to turn the lock-up torque converter on and off with Turbonator v16. I think I read about it somewhere but can't remember.
A.J.
It's in v16.9. But, why still using the old cals? Stuck on MPT1?
BTW - the logic boards went out yesterday. My wife has the trk # squirreled away in her purse. I'll send you the number later...
Ya I think I'm using v16.9, it's the last version before you have to use MPT2. I don't have my computer with me to check the exact version. I'm reluctant to change because I'm not that tech savvy and I have a hard time retaining information if I don't use it every day. The only reason I stopped using D-Cal was I had to scale a cal to a 3 BAR MAP sensor and I couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong in D-Cal and it was so much easier to do it in MPT1. Maybe I'll try MPT2 since I have to build a cal basically from scratch.
So all I have to do is wire up the LU solenoid the way the factory does it and turn it on in the cal?
Thanks for shipping that stuff out. I'm not too concerned about a tracking number unless it takes over a week to get it. You're one of the stand up guys on this board so I'm not concerned about getting ripped off.
A.J.
MPT2 is easy to use.
I got my SMEC logic modules today (thanks Rob) and I converted Sean's D-Cal SBEC cal to a SMEC cal using MPTune. Harry said I only needed to transfer PumpingEfficiencyFromRPM, FuelColdEnrichementCurveA, FuelColdEnrichementCurveB, FuelColdEnrichementCurveC, KnockSensorVoltageForKnockFromRPM, AdvanceFromMAPCold,AdvanceFromMAPWarmFull, AdvanceFromMAPWarmPart, AdvanceFromRPM2, AdvanceFromRPMMAX, LimitForHotMapAdvance. I didn't transfer the three fuel tables because Sean's running larger injectors. I couldn't find LimitForHotMapAdvance in MPTune so I didn't transfer that one. I burned it to a chip in the known bad SMEC I've been running just so I don't have to push it. Sean's cal fired right up and idled great. I can't wait to road test it. I'm itchin' to drive my PT GT SRT-4 Caravan. I haven't figured out what acronym I want to use for my van yet.
A.J.
I got to drive my van today with Sean's cal. It drove pretty good. It had a lot more get up and go. Harry and I (mostly Harry) tweaked it a little. It runs really good now.
I wired up the lock-up solenoid today also. The wiring harness already had the wire in the 60 pin connector (pin number 55). I just had to find the plug it ran down to and tap into that.
A.J.
Regarding the knock sensors, as I understand it, the bandwidth filters built in to the sensors are based on cylinder bore diameter.
http://www.phormula.co.uk/KnockCalculator.aspx
Maybe you really need to use the 2.4 sensor?
Mike
Is there really a filter in there? I've broken a couple and all that's in there is a little wire and a silver disc.
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
If my memory isn't totally toast, I think they "calibrate" them by how many crystals they put in them. They use piezo-electric quartz crystals that generate a voltage when exposed to sound waves. At any rate, I've read elsewhere where people try to use KS designed for totally different engines and they blow them up without ever registering even the slightest hint of detonation.
Mike
the bore of the 2.2/2.5L and the 2.4L are the same.
the old knock sensor works on the new engines provided it is placed in a location that gets somewhat equal amplitude from all cyl's to the sensor.
since the 2.4L early versions used pretty much the same design sensor that the older turbo motors used, the TD sensor or 96ish 2.4L sensor is the one to use.
the newer wide range 2.4L SRT style sensor does not mate up with the stock SMEC electronics without some kind of conversion board.
the sensitivity curve does need to be adjusted though to work properly to ensure that knock is detected on cyl's 1 and 4 as well as 2 and 3. 2 and 3 may be "louder" to the sensor.
Brian
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