Since I know little about tuning I'm going to need some help. I didn't know anything about automatic transmissions but now I build them from scratch. So now it's time to learn how to tune from scratch.
Details about my engine so you don't have to dig through my build thread http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...-Caravan-build
'04 PT GT Cruiser engine with an aluminum PT GT intake.
'89 SMEC with a 2.2/2.5 knock sensor threaded into the 2.4 knock sensor spot on the block between cylinders 2 & 3.
65PPH low impedance injectors.
Stock internals.
Balance shafts removed with an oil pan baffle put in it's place.
Ported/cleaned up cylinder head, by me.
Ceramic coated pistons, combustion chambers, valves, and exhaust runners.
S60 turbo with ceramic coated turbine housing and a TU 3" swing valve.
3" exhaust with a Magnaflow straight through muffler, no cat.
Log type exhaust manifold.
Late 80's Toyota Supra intercooler with 2" intercooler plumbing.
3.3/3.8 52mm throttle body.
NGK iridium spark plugs 2 heat ranges colder than stock.
3 BAR MAP
91+ epoxy coil
Today Harry (tryingbe) and I attempted to tune my van a little. I thought I was due for emissions but not until November of next year. We were getting knock between 5 & 10 lbs of boost. Mostly in cylinder #1 and sometimes it was retarding the timing without even seeing any voltage from the knock sensor. We tried to tune the pumping efficiency but when I took the wastegate rod off the swing valve I was still getting boost. Apparently my wastegate hole isn't big enough.
I'm open to any and all suggestions since I only know a little bit about tuning. I've adjusted fuel and timing for my old 2.5 and my Dad's 2.2 with success but those were only minor adjustments compared to what I need to do to this. Keep in mind I think I have the wrong stall converter in this. I don't know if that is going to affect anything.
A.J.