...that could be difficult, even getting it on a flat bed?
...that could be difficult, even getting it on a flat bed?
Use some ramps or planks to extend the ramp and reduce the angle of approach.
If using a flatbed trailer, back the tow vehicle onto ramps so the rear wheels are higher. It will reduce the angle of the load ramps.
Mike Marra
1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
Project Log:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=
A good guy who is patient can get one on, it's the guys who don't care and are in a rush. I've had my lowered PT GT towed and guy was very good getting it on, using all sorts of tricks with 2x4's.
Using the topology nearby can help too. Like backing the truck in to a low drainage spot or something if one is close. Always forget to do that when loading bikes.
MinivanRider
I used to have to get this thing on trailers all the time. Talk about a pain in the balls. After a few times of kicking the trailer I finally just built a little wooden step ramp out of about 10 feet of 2x4s.
Agreed with above. Easiest I have found is to use wood to get the angle down a bit.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
If it's relatively stock height it shouldn't be a problem for a good driver. Most of the tows I've received over the last couple of years have not had any issues at all. If you let them know that it's the Shelby model AAA will send out a qualified truck to handle the situation. Think about how many cars have front fascias which are lower these days. It's not like when they were new at all.
[QUOTE=contraption22;962237If using a flatbed trailer, back the tow vehicle onto ramps so the rear wheels are higher. It will reduce the angle of the load ramps.[/QUOTE]
If you are using a car hauler trailer with ramps that slide out and angle down to the ground, they are usually at a pretty steep angle. If you raise the rear wheels of the two vehicle, and therefore, the tongue of the trailer, you can bring the rear of the trailer closer to the ground. Therefore the ramps will have less angle to the ground.
Mike Marra
1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
Project Log:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=
^^That works in theory but I'd never park my truck on top of ramps and then load it. You are just asking for trouble.
Find a set of railroad tracks, park the trailer on one side, add a board or two to reduce the step angle and drive it up. You can always remove the air from the trailer tires to give you another few inches
What he means is use the trailer jack to raise the front of the trailer, which in effect raises the rear of the truck.
We have a shop rollback that has a "sharktail" bed, basically the rear section has an angle on it that allows loading of lowered vehicles easier. Call around your local towing companies and see if any of them has one, if so save their number
Mike Marra
1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
Project Log:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=
thats what i always did... but I'd use a 4x4 or 6x6 block sometimes under the foot of the trailer jack.. BTW up here we call those trailers(like the one i have) "beaver tail" trailers. It makes loading/unloading so much nicer
But yea like everyone has said if using a tow company just tell them you have a low front spoiler if the driver could bring some planks with him/her... its actually pretty common.. good luck
Turbo Joe
----------------------- 87 CSX #175 TIII powered, MegaSquirt3 Pro Ultimate, GTX3076R, Turbo Joe header, Lengel intake, Menegon ported head, the list goes on
I started towing about six months ago with a flatbed and if front end or back is too low I use a six inch piece of two by four in front of wheels before it goes oin flatbed.
Jim
I use (2) 2 x 10 x 8 ' boards and place over my ramps just in case
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Wayne,
I had your car flatbedded once (after DMV accidentally loosened a spark plug wire, which I figured out at home...). We just used the 2x10s that most flat beds have to lift the nose of the car. Used them to get the car off obviously as well. You need to watch the cable from the winch as well, so it doesn't contact the front end as it approached the bed. I think the SC has the longest front overhang in the history of automobiles.
Why would you need to flatbed a perfectly fine working automobile anyway?
Prop it up on a couple of 4x4s, back in the trailer hard, and nail the brakes when you knock the sticks out.... just get plenty of practice picking up junkers first...
But fer serious, you could get some of those rubber spring assisters, and kick the nose up a few inches for transport purposes.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
Derek, you know by now 'paranoia' is my middle name! (Ignore the 'H' on the birth certificate, it was a misprint. And, let's NOT review the debacle of me confusing the clutch cable with clutch linkage, either).
I'm planning on going to the Shelby Nationals @ Carlisle, and, if something should happen on the way...just planning ahead! (Apparently, WAY ahead)!