Putting BOV in 89 Dodge Lancer Shelby

[hewhobarksatdogs]

Hi, I am going to install a BOV (yet un-purchased) in my Lancer. 2.5" 6" pipe with flange, no problem, still wondering what BOV to buy. Can't find the modified Talon BOV that was recommended. Also, I know that I have to connect a vacuum line on the throttle body to signal the BOV to open but how do I connect it to the throttle body? There are two vacuum lines coming of the top of the (Holley) throttle body, do I just T off of one of those? Any other suggestions or recommendations on this operation?

As to the BOV itself: I would like one that does a proper job, is adjustable, and is reliable. A bit of sound is part of the package, as well. Nothing that shrieks or whistles! Just that sweet, "shoosshh" when changing gears {:>)

Thanks!

[GLHNSLHT2]

How to modify a Talon BOV. http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html

A stock Talon BOV just sold on this site for $30 with flange. But if you're not going to run over 15psi then modifying one isn't necessary.

[hewhobarksatdogs]

Running stock 12 psi. Does anyone have a Talon BOV with flange and 6" 2.5" pipe? Is the Talon BOV adjustable?

[GLHNSLHT2]

The Talon BOV is not adjustable. You don't need it to be. If you run above 15psi you'll want to mod it per the link I gave. It'll hold all the boost you could ever throw at it.

[hewhobarksatdogs]

Also, I know that I have to connect a vacuum line on the throttle body to signal the BOV to open but how do I connect it to the throttle body? There are two vacuum lines coming of the top of the (Holley) throttle body, do I just T off of one of those?

---------- Post added at 06:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:34 PM ----------

Still need to know how to hook this thing up.

[tryingbe]

Use the one on the driver side. The big port is for vapor canister only.

[hewhobarksatdogs]

Thanks! That is what I needed to know.

[hewhobarksatdogs]

OK, two more questions:

1) The vacuum line on the driver's side of the throttle body, where the BOV is to connect, is currently home to a small hose that follows the physical path of the vapor canister hose and then splices into it. In the middle of this hose is what looks like a check valve or little filter. What is the purpose of this hose and can I live without it?

2) The BOV I got is supposed to be adjustable and, on top, is the vacuum hose connection and a threaded rod with a nut. I assume that the threaded rod / nut assembly is for adjustment of the the BOV but, in experimenting with the rod / nut assembly, i.e. loosening the nut, there seems to be no effect, i.e. change; the rod remains at its current height and even a bit of nudging does not get it to move. Am I not "getting it" or is my BOV a POS?

[Fox]

when i put in my bov i just used the nipple that the fuel pressure regulator used and spliced in a t there and it works fine so you could hook it up there instead if you wanted

[tryingbe]

1) The vacuum line on the driver's side of the throttle body, where the BOV is to connect, is currently home to a small hose that follows the physical path of the vapor canister hose and then splices into it. In the middle of this hose is what looks like a check valve or little filter. What is the purpose of this hose and can I live without it?

Yes, it'll be fine.

2) The BOV I got is supposed to be adjustable and, on top, is the vacuum hose connection and a threaded rod with a nut. I assume that the threaded rod / nut assembly is for adjustment of the the BOV but, in experimenting with the rod / nut assembly, i.e. loosening the nut, there seems to be no effect, i.e. change; the rod remains at its current height and even a bit of nudging does not get it to move. Am I not "getting it" or is my BOV a POS?

No make and model? No picture? BOV isn't going work without a vacuum signal. You probably have to losse the nut then turn the rod down to stiffen it, but then I don't know what we're working with here.

[cordes]

when i put in my bov i just used the nipple that the fuel pressure regulator used and spliced in a t there and it works fine so you could hook it up there instead if you wanted

I always recommend leaving the FPR and MAP lines dedicated if you can. Should you blow off a vac line from the FPR while in boost you'll run the risk of catastrophic failure.

[hewhobarksatdogs]

Thanks, all. Great Diagram. Thing one is where to hook up the vacuum sensing line. So I have 2 questions: 1) the line that I am currently thinking about disconnecting is the one on the right in the diagram that just loops over to the larger hose; so I can just disconnect that and cap it at the connector, then hook up the BOV vacuum line. Question 2) the waste gate piping, what's the deal? Now is where I show my ignorance: does this car really have a waste gate?

---------- Post added at 08:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:51 AM ----------

Here is the BOV of which I speak:it Adjustable Diaphragm Type S BOV

[hewhobarksatdogs]

I mean I know it is supposed to have a waste gate, just where is it located?

---------- Post added at 08:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:01 AM ----------

Also, if I want to hook up a boost gauge, how do I do that?

[cordes]

The WG is in the turbine housing. The can which you can see on top of the turbo from the driver's side of the car is the WG actuator. You'll always need a vac source going to that. Honestly, unless you're looking to retain the stock look under the hood a vacuum block may be in order. That way you can run individual lines to the pieces of your choice easily.

[hewhobarksatdogs]

It's in, it works, YEE-HAH!!! Thanks to all for your advice. I took a brief video with my iPhone but, apparently, .MOV files are hard to do much with. Tried to post it here but, apparently, only Hulu, and YouTube, etc. videos are of the proper format. Have done little with videos so I gotta figure this out. My kid is whiz-bang at this stuff so I will have to bother him and suffer the humiliation of, "geez, Dad, are you stuck in the 80's or what?" {:>|

[cordes]

Glad that you've got it running.

[hewhobarksatdogs]

I have more work to do on the car, brake leak somewhere, power windows not working, etc. Once I have all of that fixed I plan to run up to Cornelius for a tank of 100 octane (NASCAR country, ya know) and then out to Rockingham, NC for a couple runs down the quarter mile. Car is bone stock, motor is excellent (87K miles, 130 psi in all 4 bangers). No mods except new low-restriction muffler. Any idea of what kind of times I could expect?

[cordes]

Probably a 16.3 at 88mph. I ran my Daytona Shelby in stock form, but with leaking exhaust manifold gasket, a hole in the muffler, and an MP cal to a 16.0 at 90MPH.

[hewhobarksatdogs]

OK, good place to start! Once I get the Great White Brick out to Rockingham I will post my times for all to see. Again thanks to you, to Simon, and to the rest of the forum for helping me through getting the Lancer running again. Have to fix a brake leak, get the power windows back on-line, and a few other things. Probably won't be rolling again until March as I am not hurting for transportation and I have lots of other projects going on. But, come Spring-time, "vroooommm> whoooshhh!" Merry Christmas o<):>)