GLH omni: need advice on my build

[fixit]

Use: street legal drag car (with historic plates), hp goal >500

Parts on hand:
-stock motor 2.2L (bad, spun rod bearing)
-trans (555, bad syncro 4th and no 5th gear)
-spare 2.2L formerly running
-srt4 long block (needs rebuild)

Build options: engine
1- cb 2.5, stock electronics, dohc (hybrid), weisco pistons & eagle rods
2- 2.2 , stock electronics, dohc (hybrid), weisco pistons & eagle rods
3- srt4 2.4 w/stage 3 turbo, megasquirt, weisco pistons & eagle rods

Build options: transmission
a- a413 (automatic - cheap an junk yard, not sure how much hp/tq they can hold)
b- a568
c- don't really want the 555 (but the local junk yard had 3 of them)

Thoughts

• Seems the DOHC flows 30% more air -- big plus
• Using the DOHC head w/SRT4 Stage 3 turbo is a nice package, or a holset (he351>)
• Use the PT cruiser plastic intake manifold (nice packaging .
• Concerned about the complexity/tuning a Megasquirt & motor mounts & starter &adapting transmission --this is driving the 2.5 CB instead of the srt4 block
• manual rack and pinion (not sure what the options are)
• trans, not sure what to do -- auto seems like a good idea (can it hold the power -- would like equal length axles)
• intercooler, tempted by a water to air (easy plumbing)

Suggestions welcomed, and links to other builds would be very helpful
Thanks!

[roachjuice]

Auto would be easier to launch. 5 speed would be fun to drive on the street though.

[roachjuice]

500 hp is a hefty goal but doable. Hybrid only gets complex with the oil feed and return lines. You will need some custom can gears too.
2.4 complete block and head is not bad. Just have to worry about motor mounts. I think someone here makes a kit you can buy. you can run a distributor off the side of the head with an adapter and a modded stock distributor therefore keeping the stock electronics. Tune with a socketed computer. Done.

[cordes]

Auto would be easier to launch. 5 speed would be fun to drive on the street though.

They'll also stay together with much less trouble at high HP in my opinion too.

IMO if you really think you need 500HP then DOHC is the only way to go. However, getting much above 300HP in an omni on the street produces no useful traction whatsoever. I was putting out around 250 or so HP in mine back when and I got no traction until midway through 3rd gear. Granted, I didn't have ideal tires on the car for straight line acceleration, but the point stands.

[roachjuice]

They'll also stay together with much less trouble at high HP in my opinion too.

IMO if you really think you need 500HP then DOHC is the only way to go. However, getting much above 300HP in an omni on the street produces no useful traction whatsoever. I was putting out around 250 or so HP in mine back when and I got no traction until midway through 3rd gear. Granted, I didn't have ideal tires on the car for straight line acceleration, but the point stands.

Exactly. I think there is less stress on the driveline with an auto. When you launch with an auto, everything is already tight. No shock like a manual.

[cordes]

Exactly. I think there is less stress on the driveline with an auto. When you launch with an auto, everything is already tight. No shock like a manual.

I was saying that a 5 speed would stay together better at high HP. Sorry if that wasn't clear. A 555 or 568 is very stout compared to a stock auto trans IMO. I think you're right about the stress on axles etc. though.

[roachjuice]

I was saying that a 5 speed would stay together better at high HP. Sorry if that wasn't clear. A 555 or 568 is very stout compared to a stock auto trans IMO. I think you're right about the stress on axles etc. though.

Oh yea totally agree. Stock for stock 5 speed is where it's at.

[tryingbe]

What is the budget build $$$$$?

[fixit]

my srt4 build ran ~$1500 -- guessing similar

What is the budget build $$$$$?

[cordes]

my srt4 build ran ~$1500 -- guessing similar

You plan on making 500+HP for 1.5K while needing to rebuild a motor, and source all of the supporting parts? You could probably do the motor, clutch and trans for that if you shopped well. I'm not seeing the whole package for that cost though.

[roachjuice]

He should buy my already built hybrid Omni with a holset hx35. Should do 400whp without a problem

[fixit]

still working on the plan,
- is the 2.5 cb a good upgrade?
- to automatic or not (surprising how cheap these are)?
- electronics ?

[roachjuice]

still working on the plan,
- is the 2.5 cb a good upgrade?
- to automatic or not (surprising how cheap these are)?
- electronics ?

commnon block is good. forged pistions of course. auto or manual is completly up to you. drag racing id put a built auto in there. street car 5 speed. electronics you can run the stock stuff either way. socketed 87 computer and a chip burner and your set. the hybrid setup you can run the distributor in the factory location or on the side of the head. 2.4 swap you can run the distributor on the side of the head.

[tryingbe]

my srt4 build ran ~$1500 -- guessing similar

For the block only?

Just the pistons and rods will put you almost at $1000, not to mention machining and service parts cost.


SRT4 long block will be easiest to to your goal, since you already done it once. The budget needs to be multiply by a factory of 3 - 5 if you want a fast and reliable car.

[*]Use the PT cruiser plastic intake manifold (nice packaging .

The manifold won't fit with stock GLH hood.

[turbovanman²]

They'll also stay together with much less trouble at high HP in my opinion too.

Says who? Might wanna chat with JT and Reeves about that. Auto's with the correct combo of parts are alot more reliable.

still working on the plan,
- is the 2.5 cb a good upgrade?
- to automatic or not (surprising how cheap these are)?
- electronics ?

500 hp or 500 whp? Shadow is making 500 whp with a 87 2.2, forged pistons, unsure of the rod, forged crank, his own ported +1mm G-head, custom 1 piece intake, ported stock exhaust manifold, HE351 turbo and tuning out the wazzoo.

There are many ways to skin a cat so you have to figure out how much money you want to spend and how much patience you have.

Hybrid builds are messy but not bad, the best way is a full 2.4 swap or do a TIII swap. Power can be made either way but it is easier with a 16 valve head.

[cordes]

Says who? Might wanna chat with JT and Reeves about that. Auto's with the correct combo of parts are alot more reliable.



500 hp or 500 whp? Shadow is making 500 whp with a 87 2.2, forged pistons, unsure of the rod, forged crank, his own ported +1mm G-head, custom 1 piece intake, ported stock exhaust manifold, HE351 turbo and tuning out the wazzoo.

There are many ways to skin a cat so you have to figure out how much money you want to spend and how much patience you have.

Hybrid builds are messy but not bad, the best way is a full 2.4 swap or do a TIII swap. Power can be made either way but it is easier with a 16 valve head.

Reeves has only had problems beating up the bearings after extended usage for the most part. JT is running the heaviest car of anyone in that power range. DJ and Shadow have had few problems with stock transmissions at 500+WHP. I'm unaware of anyone that can say that about an auto?

[turbovanman²]

Reeves has only had problems beating up the bearings after extended usage for the most part. JT is running the heaviest car of anyone in that power range. DJ and Shadow have had few problems with stock transmissions at 500+WHP. I'm unaware of anyone that can say that about an auto?

Depends on who built them. We have nagging glitch's but nothing like what the 5 speed guys seem to be going thru recently. But then again, its probably pretty even. If I ran a 5 speed, I would have killed it many times over, probably many axles too as I have alot more weight than JT plus I drive it everyday. I usually get 2-3 years out of my auto's before something needs to be done and if it wasn't for converters going on me, maybe longer.

[tryingbe]

500 hp or 500 whp? Shadow is making 500 whp with a 87 2.2, forged pistons, unsure of the rod, forged crank, his own ported +1mm G-head, custom 1 piece intake, ported stock exhaust manifold, HE351 turbo and tuning out the wazzoo.

Anybody asked Shadow how much $$$$ he spent so far and how many times he has rebuild his engine to get to where he is today?

[Shadow]

Anybody asked Shadow how much $$$$ he spent so far and how many times he has rebuild his engine to get to where he is today?

The mtr in the Charger is the same longblock (shortblock I got with car and our +1mm G-head) that was patched together almost 8 years ago when I bought the car. (polished the crank and did the rod bearings as the #4 was down to copper from previous owner abuse)

I have yet to drop the pan and even look at the bearings let alone any kind of rebuild. All I've done for repairs so far is 3-4 H/G's and they all were from Big boost spikes or knock/ lean conditions.

Oh ya, almost forgot, Before I upgraded to Cindy's Crane springs I was spitting the occasionl rocker and even split one in half at about 500rpm Less than what I buzz/shift at now.

The 568 is bone stock with quaife and other than fresh rebuild when it originally went in hasn't been touched. I just drained the Mobile 1 10w30 oil out this year and it looked like I had just put it in, Mint and no signs of metal.

I really want to check the race that so many are having problems with, but just haven't got around to it yet and prob won't till after the car goes 9's.

So, 10w30 Mobil 1 oil in both mtr and trans, mtr Never sees dirty oil, always run better octain than needed = long life/ good mileage/ great street/track car!

[roachjuice]

The mtr in the Charger is the same longblock (shortblock I got with car and our +1mm G-head) that was patched together almost 8 years ago when I bought the car. (polished the crank and did the rod bearings as the #4 was down to copper from previous owner abuse)

I have yet to drop the pan and even look at the bearings let alone any kind of rebuild. All I've done for repairs so far is 3-4 H/G's and they all were from Big boost spikes or knock/ lean conditions.

Oh ya, almost forgot, Before I upgraded to Cindy's Crane springs I was spitting the occasionl rocker and even split one in half at about 500rpm Less than what I buzz/shift at now.

The 568 is bone stock with quaife and other than fresh rebuild when it originally went in hasn't been touched. I just drained the Mobile 1 10w30 oil out this year and it looked like I had just put it in, Mint and no signs of metal.

I really want to check the race that so many are having problems with, but just haven't got around to it yet and prob won't till after the car goes 9's.

So, 10w30 Mobil 1 oil in both mtr and trans, mtr Never sees dirty oil, always run better octain than needed = long life/ good mileage/ great street/track car!

Not to hi jack the thread but how much boost do you run on the street compared to the track and what fuel? I assume race gas at the track.