How does e eryone else keep these damn things in. I blue locktited mine in and I've driven my van 4 days, and the two top ones were nearly all the way out all the lowers were loose. The two in the front of the block for the front mount were loose too. The big 18mm heads are a real pain. To drill for safety wire. This is on a non balance shaft 2.5 but the bottom end has been balanced.
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
I use blue locktight also, But befoe i use it i wire wheel the bolts and clean the threads really good with brake clean. I have never had one come loose on its own preping the bolt and block that way.
IIRC the torque spec for them is 70ft/lbs. What are you torquing them to? Do you have the dowels in the ears of the block? I've read that if those aren't present it can cause the bolts to walk.
are you using the factory bolts with the serated faces on them to keep them tight?
At the lower 4 holes. The top 2 are 18mm head with washer. I've never seen the serrated ones in the top hole.Originally Posted by GLHNSLHT2
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
I'm making them as tight as I can get them with a 12 in ratchet much tighter than 70. I did brake keen the bolt holes and the bolts were sonic cleaned so they were dry.
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
It sounds like you've got everything in the right spot, but to double check, you do have the really long ones in the proper places correct?
Did you try red lock tight? I don't ever bother with blue...
Yes, I used 4 of the 15mm headed serrated long ones in all bolts screwing into the aluminum. The 2 top bolts are long enough to catch all the threads.
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
All trans to block bolts should be 18mm heads from the factory.
I don't know where they came from, I had a few from my spirit, and other Turbo mopars that I've disassembled. I just know they make it a lot easier to tighten the hard to get to bolts. The serrated head should help but they still come loose.
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
I've never pulled a 15mm headed trans to block bolt out of any FWD chrysler I've come across. Even the front motor mount to block bolts have all been 18mm heads. Perhaps you could try some of the standard ones?
The 15mm ones like to turn up on starters for some reason.
Got no tips for you, I bolt mine up, they stay bolted up :shrug:
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
Ill have to get a picture. They have the same rating of the other bolts 10.9 I think. Ive pulled them all out of bellhousings. Maybe newer cars?
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
Maybe you just have the right resonance on your setup that is causes them to vibe out. That is the best I can come up with. I'm with RW222....I have never had one loosen up on anything I've worked on. Weird....
Bryan
86 GLHS #161, 2016 Impala
SDAC National Member, SDAC Buckeye Chapter Member
A man has got to know his limitations.....
weird, My old 2.5 that was in my shadow did the same thing. Must just be how I drive, I guess Ill have to drill them for safety wire.
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
And they are a size down from the trans to block bolts. I have accidentally put a couple of those in by mistake back when I first got in to these cars. I highly doubt the OP has done this as it is a super duper rookie mistake that I doubt he would make.
I've had a lot of problems with the ones on the front engine mount come loose from both the bellhousing and block, on several cars. Try finding a small brush to scrub the threads clean in the bellhousing, flush with more brake cleaner, and blow them out with compressed air if available. Brake cleaner can actually stay wet in the holes for a long while if there's no airflow to evaporate it. Try the blue locktite again. If they come loose again, find new bolts.
I've seen a lot of the '90ish and up cars having 15mm heads on the two bolts that hold the front engine mount bracket to the bellhousing. They also had serrated flanges as mentioned above. But given all the inconsistencies we've found with these cars, I certainly wouldn't say they all had them.
They probably had the serrated flanges due to all of them walking out. The bottom one on the front motor mount is the one I've always had trouble with. I'll be running a long bolt through and nutting it on the back side the next time I do one.
I've had them come loose on my car as well. Red Loc-Tite and the correct torque...no more issues!
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote