Ideas/Help - '92 Lebaron 3.0 V6 Convt Turbo Build

[NeverLow]

correct stock main, rod, and headbolts do fine at over twice the power you want and like 8000-9000 rpm or something rediculous

Sweet! Money saved that can be spent elsewhere!

[NeverLow]

Picked all 5spd parts today, as well as 3" exhaust which I will be adding my own specific muffler to after the new motor goes in with the DP and manifold etc. Thanks lengel!

[NeverLow]

Just another update. I leave for an 8 day vac a on Monday. During which time, my car will be painted and top temporarily fixed using plastidip. Pics to come when I get back at the end of the month! Rule # 1 finally going to be in effect!

[Ondonti]

Kinda missed this but I didn't bother upgrading anything in my He341 Spirit except increased ring gaps (which will increase blowbye some). DSM 1G headbolts used in our mains should be just as capable as ARP bolts unless you get the tool steel stuff (H11, L19 or something like that). 2G DSM headbolts are garbage. I don't see a reason to upgrade those parts but you can do it. I don't think I have enough data to prove upgrades are necessary when you have proper combustion. Stock headbolts are good to 1000+ but apparently over 1000 they fatigue per two guys who built thousand hp daily drivers (not race cars) and you either need tool steel ARP (not the basic ARP) or custom from another company (huge $), or replace headbolts on some sort of schedule. Rodbolts do get upgraded when you buy fancy rods but mostly because the rods are designed with those fasteners in mind. If rpms won't kill stock rodbolts then its not something to worry about HP wise as far as I am concerned.

I think what might be a good upgrade is keeping the oil system happy. I don't like my crankcase evacuation system and I have no oil cooling of any kind (nor a temperature guage to show I need to cool things down). I am thinking long term here. I don't beat on my motors constantly and hardly have opportunities to go WOT as I commute to work. Safe timing, proper AFR, sufficient octane fuel will keep things happy. I want to run more timing out of boost to help with fuel economy but I can't do that thanks to having no control over timing in boost vs n/a atmospheres. I run bone stock timing on 92 octane and 10 pounds to try to stay safe. I can't really say if I am pushing the envelope (going too far) or not going far enough. I have not felt motivated to do any knock listening with my microphone setup. I have also not felt motivated to record the status screen from my DRB2000 scanner while doing a pull but I do want to get that done next year. Would be good info, especially if I take a video recording which I can then chart out. I could probably just do that in my a670 Spirit and not worry about wheelspin in the rainy season. Should be the same numbers if I put in a 5 speed ecu.

I really really really want to run more timing out of boost in my Holset setup but I don't know how I would get that done and be satisfied. Maybe Rob could just burn a CAL that drops timing as vacuum drops and then increase the RPM limiter. These problems make Megasquirt very very tempting but I don't want a daily driver that is out of action when something goes wrong (may never happen but the stock stuff has not let me down on a long trip etc). Eventually I will probably ditch OEM ECU in my Spirit but I don't have the time now to get the bugs out, datalog anything, or get the tune correct. Megasquirt will let you do all the fun stuff as long as you have time. I think stock motor can handle a lot of abuse with big ring gaps and staying out of knock. I see my nissan buddies run 18psi on n/a 9.1:1 pistons and very little tuning control (mail order tunes). They eventually fail. I do think 120mph on 92 octane is possible in a P body with my Holset setup (aka, boltons motor with no special cams/heads/intake manifolds) on stock pistons with big gaps and increased rev limiter tuned by MS. For long term survivability, a 110mph car with megasquirt should probably never have a motor failure as long as your oil pump survives and the tune stays good. Eventually you will lose HP as the rings need a refresh and you get more blowbye. Thus is engine life.

[Ondonti]

BTW, I hate the HE341/351 oddball V band clamp setup and you can buy standard fitment turbine housings for hx35 turbos if you can afford them. I went with the free turbo I had (351 would be better but not free) but at this point in my finances I would just have bought something that is easy to attach a downpipe to. I did more thorough research on the he341/351 v band clamp issue thanks to leaks I still have and wish I had bought the right parts to begin with (OEM $44 dollar clamp, $40-60 adapter flange, either to 3" or 4"). Those parts change the affordability of an he341/351.

[NeverLow]

Another update: Car is fully sanded and ready for paint while I am gone. I am doing slight body modifications as well, antenna delete, 3r brake light deletse, not badges, etc. If anyone needs the antenna assembly, let me know. Works fine, just no antenna stalk. Full wiring from antenna to radio tho. PM me with any interest.

And thanks for all the info Brent, but theres so much there, kinda got lost lol

[NeverLow]

Cars is drying now! Just a few pics before the paint. Shows the subtle yet slick minor body alterations during prep. 3rd brake light delete, antenna delete, debadge, fill in/fix dents & rust, fill in small area around the grill, and a few other little things here and there. Will take/post pics 2mrw after getting it all back together. Next week, plastidip the top for the winter, then onto find my clear front marker housings for my switchbacks! Slowly but surely coming together

[NeverLow]

1st pic when it was dryed the next morning. Will have more when i get nice shots when the top is done!

[MC#4]

very cool!

[shayne]

i like it, i want to do my car in john deere blitz black.

[NeverLow]

Thanks guys, glad u like it, i LOVE it! It came out better than i expected. Besides the awesome new paint job, im more excited about the removal of all the rust on the body, 90% of the dents, pin stripe/badges, antenna, and 3rd brake light. Got 1 or 2 more exterior fixes/changes (clear front turn signals for switchbacks, new side marker trim pieces filled in to completely get rid of all 4, fill in high beam holes in headlights, fix headlight motor, etc), then its finishing up the interior (back seat to match front two, new headliner, fiberglass two 8" subs into rear panels, new carpet, other slight mods), motor/trans/suspension, and my FREE car will be complete.

Hoping to have the motor/trans/suspension done by this time next year. Still need to find a good 5spd 3.50FD (since its a daily and any extra revs and mpgs i can get will help), figure out wat front suspension set up i wana go with the kyb gas adjust in the rear (possible subaru strut conversion for front konis).

Starting motor tear down soon, and after i recoop holiday money, can start ordering parts and building back up. Hoping to do motor/trans swap all at once. So i only have to be carless for a weekend or so. Luckily, i have a 2nd motor, so i can take my time! 1st turbo car, 1st mopar, 1st full self build (with help on parts, block work, and tuning), so excited!

[RoadWarrior222]

Hmmm don't de-characterise it too much more or people will be like "What did you do to that ragtop 'stang?"

[NeverLow]

Hmmm don't de-characterise it too much more or people will be like "What did you do to that ragtop 'stang?"

Just a few things to be diff/one of a kind. Not tryin to look like a ford, ew lol

[Rrider]

FWD conversion! Nice job on the paint.

[NeverLow]

FWD conversion! Nice job on the paint.

Haha thanks