Installing TU stainless header questions

[inmyshadow]

Alright, I'm starting this thread because I keep running into questions. When I find new questions, I'll just reply in this thread.

Here is what I've done so far. Both manifolds are bolted down. Turbo is also bolted down. Swingvalve is in place, not torqued. To make the manifold fit I did the following. I slotted the header flange for expansion per Chris' recommendations. I had to grind/sand down the 3rd/4th cylinder intake runners so I could install the wastegate actuator. I also created extra clearance to avoid a stuck open wastegate. I had to start all bottom nuts on the exhaust studs before full pushing down on the manifold. I had a problem torquing down the lower bolt on the 4th cylinder.

Now I'm at the coolant lines. I have a set of TU coolant/oil lines. When I put the top coolant line on, it is way too long. There is the adjustment in between the two sections, but it isn't enough. I also have an interference problem with the wastegate actuator. Oil line doesn't seem to be a problem. I just need to get an isolated clamp for that.

I haven't tackled the lower coolant line. Last year I called Chris to order the small parts my manifold didn't come with. That included the oil drain and an extra section to extend the length of that line. With the extra length adapter, I'm concerned about vibration and durability. I'd like to add back some sort of support for the coolant line.

What have you guys done to make these lines fit? I was thinking of getting a longer adapter for the turbo to raise the coolant line up over the wastegate. I was either thinking of having a shop make up a shorter braided line or cut and flare the section with the adjustment.

My other questions are about the turbo support bracket. How does that work now? Do I just move the lower mounting point to the left nut on the engine support bracket? Also, what are the torque specs on the swingvalve nuts? What should I expect with the exhaust? I know chris says there is enough length, but..... I have some 1in header wrap and ties given to me as a gift. What should I expect to wrap? I already protect all the oil/coolant lines and electrical lines on the back side of the motor. Should I order up some sleeves to protect the shift cables?

I still hope to get this car running by the end of the month. I really miss going topless and smoking the unsuspecting. I have a whole bunch of new kids in town to teach lessons to. Plus I hate working on cars in the freezing cold.

Later
James

[omni_840]

Now I'm at the coolant lines. I have a set of TU coolant/oil lines. When I put the top coolant line on, it is way too long. There is the adjustment in between the two sections, but it isn't enough. I also have an interference problem with the wastegate actuator. Oil line doesn't seem to be a problem. I just need to get an isolated clamp for that.

I haven't tackled the lower coolant line. Last year I called Chris to order the small parts my manifold didn't come with. That included the oil drain and an extra section to extend the length of that line. With the extra length adapter, I'm concerned about vibration and durability. I'd like to add back some sort of support for the coolant line.

What have you guys done to make these lines fit? I was thinking of getting a longer adapter for the turbo to raise the coolant line up over the wastegate. I was either thinking of having a shop make up a shorter braided line or cut and flare the section with the adjustment.

Here's a pic of my oil feed and top coolant line, you have to offset them to make the clearance, I don't think you should need to extend the fitting at the turbo to go over the WG arm.


As far as making the line shorter, I went to a hydraulic hose making store and bought a smaller union(both sides short), I also had the TU SS coolant lines and the union in the kit has one long and one short end. After that everything fit much better.


The bottom coolant line is actually pretty easy if you bought the extender from Chris, just make sure you hook it up the right way. I didn't at first and didn't think it would work


You can see in this pic how I routed my oil drain tube and how I had the extender hooked up wrong

My other questions are about the turbo support bracket. How does that work now? Do I just move the lower mounting point to the left nut on the engine support bracket? Also, what are the torque specs on the swingvalve nuts? What should I expect with the exhaust? I know chris says there is enough length, but..... I have some 1in header wrap and ties given to me as a gift. What should I expect to wrap? I already protect all the oil/coolant lines and electrical lines on the back side of the motor. Should I order up some sleeves to protect the shift cables?

I still hope to get this car running by the end of the month. I really miss going topless and smoking the unsuspecting. I have a whole bunch of new kids in town to teach lessons to. Plus I hate working on cars in the freezing cold.

Later
James

I wish moving the turbo support bracket over to the left hole was that easy....I had to move it to the left hole and extend the bracket and offset the bracket to clear the oil drain tube coming out of the block. I have a pic of what I did, but it's not on my computer, I can post it after work if you would like.

[Shadowjake]

I'd like to know what the blue fitting is. As mine is now, the oil feed sits to high and I can't rotate my wastegate toward the front enough to gett heater hoses on the heater core. That would solve my problem if the threads are the same. More info please!

(sorry to hijack)

[inmyshadow]

Good to see the picture of the lower coolant line. I was going to put it in wrong. Also seeing your external wastegate make wish I had somebody weld in a flange for me. I have several 38mm flanges and an external gate sitting here. I wanted to try simple first, making one of my wastegate cans adjustable.

In regards to the top coolant line. My wastegate actuator rubs the coolant line. I have a some insulation protecting the line, But I don't want to risk a future coolant line failure. My fittings off the turbo are also different then yours.

[Chris W]

The area around the turbocharger is very tight requiring a little creativity when routing supply lines with other components. The center bearing housing of the turbocharger can be rotated by up to 20 degrees. When adjusted it will change the position and length of coolant return line required while also increasing clearance with the WG actuator rod. You can also lean the line towards the compressor housing to increase the gap between the WG actuator rod. Space permitting, you can redrill the WG bracket to elevate the rod away from the line. To decrease the overall length you can swap out the bulkhead male to male connector fitting for the shorter standard size piece located between the hose and tube. See Omni_840's second photo.

In regard to the turbo support bracket, DO NOT USE IT for Stainless Steel Header versions. The body of the header is Stainless Steel and the flanges are mild steel. They expand and contract at different rates. If they are prevented from moving by using the bracket you will induce cracking. The 1/2" flange and schedule 40 Stainless Steel piping should be strong enough to support the turbo. Support brackets can be used with the newer cast iron versions without issues.

Jake, In regard to the blue fitting it looks like Omni_840 is using a Turbonetics Turbocharger with the tall inline oil filter (Brass fitting). The Turbonetics filters do not work with standard Garrett or TU fittings because the oil line will be too high and will come in contact with the WG rod. We prefer that our customers remove the Turbonetics filter after the 1 year warranty is up because it can actually become a restriction due to it's limited filtering size. The attached photo is of our older filter option. Our current version has considerably more filtering surface area.

Chris-TU

[inmyshadow]

How about this. Is it safe to wrap the header?

[turbovanman²]

You can see in this pic how I routed my oil drain tube and how I had the extender hooked up wrong

I see what you did there, very cool, didn't think anyone else used those,

[inmyshadow]

New Question. What are people doing for an air intake? With help from a friend, I was able to get head bolted down. I know on larger turbos, air intakes will be a problem. I'm running a super60 and it looks like I can get the 89 TI air hose on the turbo. The problem is with the heater hoses and throttle cable. There is going to be a big mess of wiring, air hoses, heater hoses and throttle cable in a small area.

Right now it looks like the throttle cable is in a tight bend. More so as I start putting on the air hoses. Has anyone ever measured throttle cable lengths? I know with neons, there are two different lengths. A longer cable might do the trick.

What are some ideas on heater hoses? I'm not going to be able to use the bracket off the master cylinder. It is in the way of my air intake hose.

How should I do a cold air intake? My current setup is a 89 TI air hose with a metal 45 degree bend to a filter. This put my filter under the battery tray. Is there something out there that works better, yet doesn't need me to have welded?

I'm in the home stretch. Monday, I'll find the position for the oil drain. I'll also test fit my exhaust while under the car. Everything else is gravy with my hopes to get the car running next weekend, laziness and/or overtime dependent.

Later
James

[inmyshadow]

Pbodies is all I really know. I've had four since 1993. I had a Daytona and daily drive a neon, but I always come back to shadows.

Well the Turbo on the car isn't really mine. Chris sent me the wrong rebuilt super60. My compressor was different then the one I sent to him for rebuild. He mixed up two super60 rebuild shipments . The turbo he sent me had the wrong exhaust housing. Glad I never sent my actual super60 spare turbo.

My Turbo is a rebuilt tii turbo to super60. I can get my air hoses on, but it is going to be a huge mess on that side of the motor. I'm looking for ideas to clean up that side.

[tryingbe]

Google found these

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgvwIfN1oVU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGdQYdTPmQo
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...Header-Install

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=RUBB

[inmyshadow]

A friend used those hoses from ATP. They were nothing but problems.

I was looking at their small radius 90 degree silicone bend though.

[Force Fed Mopar]

DodgeZ used that ATP 90 on his CSX when when we swapped the Bombni engine into it w/ the SS header and the big turbo. We had to saw about an inch off the turbo inlet to get it on, and it still rubbed the booster.

On my Lebaron when it had the cast header, I had a custom-made metal 90 made by t3rse, he cut a number of pie-slices of exhaust pipe and welded them together to make an almost zero-radius 90.

[inmyshadow]

Well I got everything on the intake side pretty much done. I differently going to need something made for the air intake next spring. I shorten the intake tube a little. I did alot of test fitting and rerouting of wiring and coolant lines. I also figured out the best way to install/remove the interooler hoses. It also helped I had a smaller cone filter lying around.

Once my oil drain is welded tomorrow, I can reinstall my exhaust. I should have just about everything on the top done tomorrow.

As for the TU shipping error. It was actually the other way around. I sent in my TII turbo with a 48 A/R housing. Chris sent me another customer's turbo with a 63A/R housing.

I was upset over the compressor housing for a few reasons. Mine was the same diameter for the whole length of the outlet. That made clamping my lower intercooler hose a breeze. My compressor outlet was also tapped for a vacuum source I used for my BOV. My greddy bov didn't like switching vacuum sources. To avoid compressor surge, I had to remove one of the springs inside the BOV for it to work again.

Unfortunately if I want to go faster, I either need to learn to weld and fabricate or deal with TU. As things go, his header has be far less trouble compared other TU parts I've used. I could create a very long thread with my troubles with TU products. Luckily he backs up his products. That is the only reason why I still deal with him.

you will have to go with a 2.5" intake pipe to feed the turbo, it was not designed for 3" intake tubing or the P body in mind.
someone mixed up turbo parts? nice.......if you sent a .63 housing and got a 48 back then there was def something up. i would have at least demanded my parts back, or have them rebuild the turbo properly. thats poor business rep, i hope you choose not to deal with that person/rebuild shop again. its like sending parts to build an engine to a shop, and they say, well we accidently put your parts into someone elses engine....so we gave you his instead......lmao!!!

[turbovanman²]

Why couldn't you get your other compressor housing back?

[inmyshadow]

I had a deadline to keep being I was in a friend garage/yard longer then I needed to be. It took a few months for TU to get my rebuilt TU turbo rebuilt again. This time my turbo failure fell with in SDAC/Carisle.

I was already delayed two months on putting my car back together. I would have wasted my vacation if I waited for Chris to send me the correct turbo and/or compressor. Plus I was in the middle of house shopping at this point. I figured as long as this turbo was rebuilt as a Super60, I'll have to live with it.

Why couldn't you get your other compressor housing back?

[turbovanman²]

Ahhh, I see.

[Chris W]

Why couldn't you get your other compressor housing back?

Just want to clarify a few things with James’ order.
James placed an order for a stock TII turbo upgrade to a Super 60 during our busiest time of the year. We received his turbo core a few days later on July 28th, 2008. Due to his time constraint we told him we would do what we could to expedite his build. Now, what James didn’t know was that our machinist would only give us a price break when we provided a minimum of 10 covers at a time to be modified. They were already on our shelf. If we had requested that James’ cover be modified there would have been a 4-6 week delay and an additional $75. charge for machining a single piece. Nothing was mentioned in the order notes about keeping his original compressor cover and it appeared the same to us as the others. We did search for his original compressor cover later based on his description but could not locate it. In regard to the .48 A/R turbine housing, we did ship him a replacement about a week later. The order notes are below:

07/25/2008 10:00:10 Pending- "is the cast iron header still on sale at 375?

Please advise me on when the parts ship. I'm trying to plan when I'll need to borrow a garage.

thanks"

07/25/2008 10:30:33 Pending- "Hi James,

When did you ship out your TII core?

Chris-TU"

07/27/2008 16:15:19 Pending- "James,

Cast iron header was on sale at SDAC and Carlisle. We haven't had any internet specials lately on this product.

Chris-TU"

08/14/2008 18:52:24 Shipped- "1Z20Y5R20393503171

Order shipped complete with Filter.

Chris-TU "

08/29/2008 23:27:50 Shipped- "0307 3330 0000 7212 9608 usps pririty mail

.48 turbine housing
oil return gasket

Will email turbo install instructions"


Chris-TU

[turbovanman²]

Ahh, I see, lol.

[Reaper1]

Not to jack this thread up, but James, are you just now trying to resolve a parts order issue that happened 4 years ago?

Can you post up pictures of your issues, too? They say pictures are worth 1000 words and they certainly help when people are trying to come up with suggestions to help you solve problems like what you are having.

[inmyshadow]

No, I'm not trying to resolve any past issues with TU. Chris and I worked this out years ago. Turbovanman asked a question, I gave him an answer.

Alot of what Chris posted is new information to me. He never explained my turbo would be rebuilt with available parts on hand. I was under the impression I would get the same turbo back that I've sent in for rebuild. I've been under the impression Chris messed up the shipping.

You have to understand, at this point time, I had major problems with his ALL his parts I was using. I had an oil feed line that was too short. A coolant line with the wrong fittings. A baffled oil pan so poorly welded, the turbo oil drain guard hit my crank with only two of six welds holding it to the pan. To a turbo that exploded and took two months to get a warranty rebuild because the thrid party rebuilder was too busy making money. That was two months I didn't have a car. I got my turbo back the a day before thanksgiving. I was outside the day before Thanksgiving in the snow bolting my head down before my father left for his vacation. I spent my thanksgiving shoveling snow and working on the topend of the car. I had Marcus helping me the next day.

A few years laster, it came time to put my forged piston motor in, I wasn't happy to find a rebuilt turbo with less then 10k already failing. The compressor wheel had crashed into the housing. This time, I had Chris rebuild my TII to Super60. I even contacted him about the wrong exhaust housing. This lead to another conversation because at this point, Chris was trying to blame me for the turbo failures. Yet he wanted me to disassemble the turbo so I could return his housing. I also had concerns with his braided coolant lines because you have to rotate the housing to install a fitting. Because he was blaming me, I agreed to buy his turbo oil filter. I even had two witnesses stand under the car watching the oil return without drain to verify I had unrestricted oil pressure to the turbo.

So you see I haven't had the best of luck with his parts. Only forgiving factor was Chris always worked with me. I even meet him in my hometown and talked things out. This is really the first time I've shared in detail the problems I've had TU products and dealings with Chris. I never really posted about because we had always worked it out.

With regards to installing the header, seems I've had the typical problems everybody had run into when using this turbo header. Only things left are exhaust, prime the motor and timing.

Not to jack this thread up, but James, are you just now trying to resolve a parts order issue that happened 4 years ago?

Can you post up pictures of your issues, too? They say pictures are worth 1000 words and they certainly help when people are trying to come up with suggestions to help you solve problems like what you are having.