Christmas Vacation!Originally Posted by black86glhs
Christmas Vacation!
No. Strange Brew. The part in the court when he gets the nose bleed.
Bryan
86 GLHS #161, 2016 Impala
SDAC National Member, SDAC Buckeye Chapter Member
A man has got to know his limitations.....
Dang. I thought you were talking about when he unveils the lights.
More updates!
The driver's seat brackets are welded up and the seat is bolted in:
The brackets took some time to make because my TIG skills are about on par with a monkey. An example of one of my welds is below:
Here's a picture of the upgraded shifter rod setup on the A520 trans. I think I bought these at SDAC 3 years ago!
The fancy new 2.5" swingvalve and NTK O2 sensor:
Me failing to get my engine hoist from one side of the shop to the other:
The engine on the floor:
The engine in position!
Today I plan to finish laying out the wiring harness and potentially hook up enough hardware to get it running again. I'll have to get some Mobil 1 for the trans and need to find a new GLHS oil filter somewhere!
Do you still have the stuff in the kitty litter container? It's been magical in my transmission.
LOL! I recently returned about 30 gallons of used engine oil to the local auto parts stores. The only used oil mix I have now is in a 1 gallon jug that I use to start fires. It's a mix of about 25% engine oil and 75% used painting solvents.
I can't believe it has been 3 months since my last update! I guess the R/T was taking up my free time over the last season. I'm off work for another week, so work on the GLHS is starting again now that the R/T has a new head gasket and starter. Updates for tonight include:
Heim joint shifter installation complete, including transmission mount and shifter with new bushings. I think I'm going to like this setup.
Belts installed, along with the new passenger side 1 piece axle.
Oil and filter changed. Amazon.com actually sells the GLHS WIX oil filter.
I'd really like to try and start the engine so I can drive the car on my lift after the next couple days. To do that I need to do the following:
Install the ECM and finish installing the wiring harness
Install the cooling system (including radiator, intercooler, and airbox)
Install fuel lines
Install battery tray and battery
Install gas pedal (yeah, I really had this thing stripped down!)
Install master cylinder - Which one to use? Probably not going to re-install that leaky iron master cylinder!
Nice work! Subscribed.
~Tyler Larsen~Salt Lake City~
-92 Daytona R/T (T3/T4 Hybrid, Quaife, etc...)
-86 Jeep Grand Wagoneer Woody (winter beast)
-01 Audi TT Quattro (daily driver)
-71 Plymouth Cuda 440-6pk tribute
Check out my Homepage
The fuel lines, battery, battery tray, master cylinder, and relays are now installed. Of course, I lost the screws that attach the wiring harness to the alternator, so that's going to set me back a little. I installed an aluminum master cylinder to replace the original leaky iron unit, but I failed to bleed both the front and rear reservoirs on the bench before installing it. I'm guessing I'll need to crack the lines loose and re-bleed the master cylinder in order to push all the air out of the system.
At the rate things are going, I hope to have the car running and "driveable" this weekend. Of course, there's salt on the roads so I will only be taking the car around the yard a bit to test out the OBX differential in the snow and evaluate the mounting of the new driver's seat.
I will be posting pictures up tonight. After wasting about 45 minutes trying to figure out why my relays were clicking I discovered I did not connect the injector harness to one of the bolts on the intake manifold. For the first time in 2 years the car moved under its own power, and onto the lift where I can prepare the underside, adjust the shifter, and bleed the brakes. Once the glue is dry on the hood (the support brace came un-glued from the skin in the middle) I'll install that and the glass in the front doors.
I'm debating whether or not to try and paint the bumpers and side skirts tonight/tomorrow. Most of the car is fairly presentable, so I really don't want to bolt on the terrible-looking bumpers and side skirts before paint. I've never painted anything in the winter, but the plan is to spray it in the "cold" side of the shop, then let everything cure in the heated side of the shop. I figure humidity shouldn't be a problem this time of year.
Last but not least will be the headliner and passenger side seat installation. I kinda screwed up and ordered two 14" wide seats, so I'll only be able to have passengers who are about as skinny as I am. I'm debating whether or not I want to try and sell this seat and order a wider passengers seat, or just make all "larger" passengers sit in the back. I'm thinking the latter may be the route I'll take.
Sell the seat and order a new one! Please!
You would actually love the way I have the driver's seat mounted. The seat positions you a solid 3" lower than the factory seat, and it also moves the seat back on the track at least 6" from the original spot. This means I actually have the seat track somewhere in the middle of the adjustment range instead of all the way back wanting another few notches. The bad thing is nobody under about 5' 10" tall will be able to drive the car!
That's awesome!
Time for some new pictures!
New underhood insulation:
New driver's side brake line (replaced while changing the rubber brake hoses):
Updated interior shot:
Engine bay shot with master cylinder removed:
Car on the lift:
Did you bend and flare that yourself?
I've made a couple brake lines for this car now. The Harbor Freight double flare kit works great for this type of work. I also have a manual tube bender that works for large radius bends. I try to use a socket or something for the tight radius bends like in this line. I had to replace both rear brake lines from the wheel cylinders to the rubber hoses for the same reason (fitting stuck to the line). It seriously takes less time to just cut off the old lines and replace everything than is does to try and get the old fittings loose from the rusty lines.
Very true. Your line looked so nice that I thought you may have purchased one of the SS kits. Is that SS line you used? If so, how did you flare it?
I didn't buy SS line, as it's not even available at the local auto parts stores. The line I'm using is some kind of copper/nickel alloy that flares easily and is oxidation resistant. The new lines should easily last the life of the car, as the originals lasted 25+ years and the lines technically hadn't failed.
Excellent. I haven't seen the CuNi stuff look that chrome colored before. Very cool.
Tonight I cleaned up the shop, and installed the back seat in the Omni. I'm still waiting for the correct driver's side brake hose to arrive, then the brakes can go back together. The hood is on and I have 2 cans of "Black Again" to dress all of the exterior plastic (including airdam and side skirts). I've decided just to spray the bumpers and leave the rest of the plastic alone. I do plan to make some custom aluminum fog lamp brackets, as I just can't bring myself to re-install the heavy iron brackets. If I don't make aluminum brackets I'll probably just leave the fog's off the car.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
