finally swapping my 84 Fifth Ave for the 85 New Yorker. Currently, its got a dead battery that won't charge really, probably not much coolant in the engine, the tires need replaced from sitting flat for years in a garage, and when its running it leaks fuel pretty quickly. I'm gonna try and get it started and put it up on some ramps tomorrow, and I'd like to know how I can really fix this so I can drive it back to UNOH on sunday.
will I need to buy an all new fuel line or something?
Depends on where it's leaking, and how rusty the lines are.
My son's NY'er had a dripping fuel leak near the filter on the right rear. After I fixed that, I fired it up on the jack stands to check. No drips but could smell fuel. Looked underneath and it had a pinhole in the supply line spraying a fine mist of fuel while it ran. Looked like smoke...
Of course it was spraying it right at the down pipe!: eek:
Ended-up replacing all the steel fuel and return lines...front to rear, along with rubber lines and clamps.
I bought bulk line and bent it to fit.
CG
No offense but that's a ton of work for one day not to mention who knows what else you'll find. As noted, your going to need to check where the fuel is coming from but most likely you'll need to replace the rubber lines, use hose rated for high pressure, R9 spec.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
actually, I think I found the issue. the leak was at the top of the engine bay in the back. the clamps where the lines connected to hoses were rusted out and leaking fuel pretty quickly. I'll replace the hoses with something newer tomorrow, and we got the clamps from the local o'reilly auto here... got a new battery to replace the old dead one. all in all, I'm pretty pleased that it looks like less work than replacing the whole fuel line.
though, I'm curious...are there TWO lines that run all the way back? it kinda looks like there's two lines that connect to hoses and then to each side of the fuel rail. how does that work?
You have fuel going in, then the smaller line is the return.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
As was mentioned before,
Make sure when you get the replacement rubber hose you specify "fuel injection line"...it'll be printed on the side of the hose.
Also, another way to check if they give you the correct "fuel injection line"...if the price is reasonable, they gave you the wrong stuff...
I would also ask for 'fuel injection clamps', as opposed to common "aircraft" type clamps.
CG
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