Just bought a 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby

[black86glhs]

I see. Yeah, tap away on that bad lad. They're pretty easy to test too though.

True, but if you tap on it a couple times and it suddenly cranks over, you found the problem. Not that testing it is bad.

[crusty shadow]

if your g-pa has a starter bump switch hook one side up to the battery, and the other to he solenoid wire at the starter itself. if the starter is good when you hit the switch it should crank. if it doesnt the starter is bad and needs replaced. easier than pulling it out of the car to check it, and you dont have to mess with putting it back in if it turns out to be good.

[cordes]

if your g-pa has a starter bump switch hook one side up to the battery, and the other to he solenoid wire at the starter itself. if the starter is good when you hit the switch it should crank. if it doesnt the starter is bad and needs replaced. easier than pulling it out of the car to check it, and you dont have to mess with putting it back in if it turns out to be good.

You can also jump the two terminals with a piece of wire.

[supercrackerbox]

You can also jump the two terminals with a piece of wire.

I had to do that with my blue Daytona for a few weeks. Turned out the ignition switch wasn't fully engaging due to a fractured cam in the steering column. It eventually broke completely and I had to learn how to tear apart a tilt column.

[RoadWarrior222]

Or the NSS could be out or misaligned.

[Corporal]

Hey guys sorry its been so long since an update, haven't had too much time to work on it so didn't have much to tell. But in the past couple of weeks been working my --- off on her. Some updates:

New starter and solenoid (a terminal stud was broken off on the inside of the starter)
New right axle (Blew the old one to shreds on a test run up my street, literally, it was in a good 5-6 pieces blown apart at the CV Joint)
New front rotors
Windshield motor is operational again
New (used) tires, (but the dumbasses put them on backwards, since they're directional rims, and directional tires)
FINALLY figured out where that rouge hose went that came off of the airbox, it went into the turbo itself
New MAP sensor (more on that in a second)
Fixed the Vehicle distance sensor, the connection had a bunch of crud buildup on the terminals.
Replaced almost all of the vacuum lines, whether they were cracked or not

Now for the MAP sensor ordeal. Since I bought the car, it's had a Code 13, which is MAP vacuum. Yesterday I got in a brand new MAP sensor, and threw her in there, and went to start her up and she just kept dying. But the code was gone. Total rookie move, it was out of gas -.- (seeing how my gas gauge doesn't seem to wanna work who can blame me haha). After putting gas in her she ran strong but the code was back. I *thought* I had found out what the problem was but I was wrong. After examining the vacuum hoses, I had noticed the hose coming OUT of the wastegate solenoid was tee'd into the same line that was going IN to the barometer sensor and then into the MAP sensor. I had switched them and the code went away, but ran like total crap. So I switched them back and stared at the vacuum diagram for a good 15 minutes and noticed on the wastegate solenoid, both hoses were tee'd into the inlet and nothing on the outlet. unlike the others where there's one hose going into the inlet and one going out of the outlet.

I have my mechanic friend who has helped me through some other problems coming over when I get back from New York middle of next week (First time to NY, pretty stoked) but anyone have any ideas? I'm completely stumped. After this little vacuum dilemma is fixed, she should be ready for inspection/registration.

One last thing that's confusing me is the fuel gauge, The fuel system (Tank, fuel pump, sending unit) is all brand spanking new. And yet my fuel gauge doesn't work. Haven't looked too much into it but hopefully it's just a bad connection like the VD sensor.

Thanks to all who have helped me already, a lot of the problems couldn't have been solved without you're insight, and thanks in advance for any future advice

[cordes]

Is this a turbo 2 car? The TI cars had a different WG routing scheme than the TII cars. If you don't have everything hooked up like stock any longer and the WG routing at the solenoid is bad that could cause a serious vac issue.

[Corporal]

Pretty sure its a TII car.

[deder_2]

Was it always a t2 car?

[ShadowFromHell]

I spent HOURS tracking done code 13 on a 89 tona shelby I had. Fought and fought with it. Turned out the vac line that goes from the motor to the factory boost gauge was rotted and causing the code. What I would do is one by one block off each part that uses vacuum, reset the ECU and see if the code comes back. Once the code goes away, you have found your bad part or line.

[Corporal]

REVIVED. Sorry its been about 3 years now since I last posted, but haven't had a whole lot of progress with the Daytona. Been having some titling issues for the last couple years, and not being able to store it at a place I was living, I had to store it at a friends. It's now back home and just about ready. She seems to be running solid, for now. But I have a slight issue. My cousin was checking out the car and was playing with the shifter and now the reverse mechanism (you know the little ring around the shifter that allows you to access reverse), no longer is attached to anything. I have a repair manual for the car but can't really find too much on how to disassemble the shifter and repair what broke. Any help with this would be great, as it is currently pulled forward into my car port, and I can't back it out. :/

[2.216VTurbo]

Gently pry off the 1 2 3 4 5 R cap and reattach the nut to the lift rod. Might be stripped... Make more progress on the car, theis was a good thread a couple years ago, it *could* be again

[cordes]

Gently pry off the 1 2 3 4 5 R cap and reattach the nut to the lift rod. Might be stripped... Make more progress on the car, theis was a good thread a couple years ago, it *could* be again

Didn't the 89s just have a tongue on the lift ring that fits into a recess in the plastic lift rod?

[supercrackerbox]

Didn't the 89s just have a tongue on the lift ring that fits into a recess in the plastic lift rod?

Yes, and when that clip broke, I managed to make do by hooking a very small paper clip through it.

[cordes]

Yes, and when that clip broke, I managed to make do by hooking a very small paper clip through it.

I've done that before. however, the last time that I had one break I just used some thin metal cable from the hardware store and swaged it in a loop while it was on the car. Much tighter and it won't break now.

[Corporal]

Thanks guys, I used a pin from an old name tag and its holding good. Finally got tags for and was out on my maiden voyage with her. Stopped at the grocery store came back out and put the car to on everything looked good. Went to start and everything died at once. I let it sit for 5 minutes put it to on, everything was good again, turned to start and it died again. This happened once more. After that she never came back on. She won't respond to jumper cables. I'm at a loss.

[Orangetona]

Is it a bad ground?

[cordes]

Is everything losing power at once? Just won't crank?

[Corporal]

Turns out the wires in the aftermarket battery terminals I had to put on it had corroded. Cleaned em up and she runs like new. Thanks again everyone for all the help these last few years. She's still got a ways to go and I know I'll be asking many more questions but for now Im just happy she's alive. One question I have at the moment did all the Daytona's come with a small air horn for a horn? My horns shot and when I went to take it out there was no electric wires to it just an air hose. When I hit the horn without it in I hear what sounds to be a compressor like sound. This is my first real experience with tearing cars apart so its all new to me. Oh another thing, she's got some throttle lagg, I don't know if its normal for turbo cars to have throttle lag (note: its not turbo lagg) for instance its takes the car a good half second to a second for it to respond to the throttle. If it's normal, I'll get used to it but if its not what would cause that?

[2.216VTurbo]

Horn could have come from anywhere I suppose but the TC Maserati's have that set up. If it's not working well most of the time some Marvel Mystery or 3 in 1 oil backflushed into the compressor motor will fix it.