I ended up getting out of autos, thought it would be an interesting change but with a crappy converter it was just like driving a cvt. If anyone wants to contribute or change anything on the KC article I am pretty sure I left it public.
I ended up getting out of autos, thought it would be an interesting change but with a crappy converter it was just like driving a cvt. If anyone wants to contribute or change anything on the KC article I am pretty sure I left it public.
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
Sounds like you had more than a crappy converter if it felt like cvt
Transmission had all the valve body mods done to it, Alto red eagle clutches, and line pressure was jacked up. You could feel it bang gears but the RPM would no change. The converter wasn't really at fault, the previous owner ordered a 4500 stall converter for a van and I was constantly under the stall point so all shifts were soaked up by the converter.
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
A standard converter is sort of like a CVT if you hold it at the right RPM... obviously lower than 4500, around 2200ish
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
Are any of you guys breaking the 300m 904 inputs? I know zero about the 3 speed autos for higher HP in these cars but TCS Canada makes Aermet Input shafts for the A618 and I bet they could do them for the 904 too if there was interest. It wasn't much more than the 300m either.
74 Charger 440/727 91 Spirit R/T TIII/a568 95 Ram Cummins 12v/47RH
a 4500 stall is WAY too high for any car being driven on the street, let alone a daily driver. from personal experience 3000 rpm stall is about the limit of what you can realistically drive on the street. even that is pushing it, anything over 3000 rpm should be considered "race only" as it will be terrible to drive around town, even worse on the highway. keep in mind Stephane's car runs around 4500-5000 stall if you've seen any of the in car vids from his 8 second passes. none of us, with the exception of Brian's BSX are running a car that is as radically modified compared to Stephane's Charger.
I don't know if you know RacerStev but he's built some nice transmissions and when talking to him about building one for a 600 HP he said he recommended the 300m input and anything over 400-450 also I wouldn't break it at that lvl. I've never heard of anyone breaking one but most guys I keep up with running decent HP numbers aren't running an ATX, maybe like 3.
Acutally in the TM world Joesf the auto reigns supreme. There are way more 12 second and faster auto cars then stick cars. Actually I can only think of 2 stick cars in the 10's.
Not according to http://www.turbo-mopartimes.com/
74 Charger 440/727 91 Spirit R/T TIII/a568 95 Ram Cummins 12v/47RH
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
They are already available. Not sure any Turbo-mopar guy has broken any input shafts, I haven't yet pusing over 400whp and a pig van but I've broken almost everything else at some point,
I have run a 4500 stall and it was great at the track but awful on the town, so I had it built with a LU and that fixed the highway driving. I have a lower stall Hugh's unit but I've broken that one, so its going back for warranty, even though it was a lower stall, she still slipped and the LU again fixed that until the LU broke. A stock stal Neon converter was the best but then I couldn't get my turbo to stall with my setup,
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
I'm using a Hughes beefed up towing converter with a lower than stock stall. Love it, but mine's street only.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][FONT=Comic Sans MS]'91 Shadow convertible 2.5 auto, three core RP IC, S60/.48 stg 1, ported two-piece intake/52mm TB, Menegon +1 swirl, 88 turbo cam, Venolias, Crower rods, TU deep sump pan, ported exhaust, 3" from SV to TP, Hughes TC, Peloquin diff, DSS L5 driveshafts, Shelgame cal, Koni struts/shocks. [/FONT]
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][FONT=Comic Sans MS]'91 Shadow convertible 2.5 auto, three core RP IC, S60/.48 stg 1, ported two-piece intake/52mm TB, Menegon +1 swirl, 88 turbo cam, Venolias, Crower rods, TU deep sump pan, ported exhaust, 3" from SV to TP, Hughes TC, Peloquin diff, DSS L5 driveshafts, Shelgame cal, Koni struts/shocks. [/FONT]
I was talking to a buddy that builds beefy diesel transmissions and the subject of torque converters came up. He told me that every transmission they build leaves the door with a mandatory Billet converter. He said the way a normal converter is made, the drive lugs (where you bolt the flex plate) are welded on. The welding process creates hard spots in the front of the converter, this is also where the lockup clutch rides. As the lockup plates engage and disengage they tear themselves to pieces on the hard spots, this creates the converter that pukes metal.
This explains why so many have issues with lockup converters, are there anyone making billet converters for the fwd's?
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
Several companies make billet converters for fwd transmissions
The high stall converter i had in my intrepid had a billet front cover. That was done by Precision. Cant say that was the best converter but it did what i wanted it to. A 606 converter is extremely similar to a 604 converter which is extremely similar to a 413 converter. Enough that you can put a 413 converter in a 604. Anyway i agree there are probably several companies that will do a billet front cover for these converters. I dont think that cover is the main thing that needs to be upgraded, though. As far as i know, the billet cover is just to make it less likely that the converter distorts under high line pressure or lockup clutch load. Building something that has a very progressive stall at the rpm you want, and not all-or-nothing or missing your stall number or slipping too much at high rpm, is some kind of magic that happens in fin angles or some such.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?